Water loss

[Immortality]

That'd be Water Wetter
https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter

I use the Penrite stuff but basically does the same thing.

 

[losh1971]

Some concepts do my head in ... a vacuum is a closed system environment that has air sucked out of it that we regard as "negative" pressure? Its not really negative its an arbitrary idea. But it does have a measurable pressure. It also lacks atmosphere and if conditions are met it can be a high pressure of absent atmospheric gas, and i think that phenomenon is freaking amazing...

yeah does my head in a bit too. We learnt about it as an apprentice so we could understand how they heat treat milk to make it last more than a couple of days. They heat treat it but use the vacuum to stop it boiling or it would be ruined.

 

[Tonner Matt]

Clearly this is over your head even though I've tried to explain and guide you to the answers but hopefully others will be a little wiser from the info I've posted tonight.

All you can do on a forum is try to help people out and offer them the "Correct" information
If people are too stubborn to accept when they're wrong, or don't want to take on your advice......It's their loss mate

 

[Immortality]

Some concepts do my head in ... a vacuum is a closed system environment that has air sucked out of it that we regard as "negative" pressure? Its not really negative its an arbitrary idea. But it does have a measurable pressure. It also lacks atmosphere and if conditions are met it can be a high pressure of absent atmospheric gas, and i think that phenomenon is freaking amazing...

So if the atmosphere is removed wtf are we really removing and continuing to remove to create this "vacuum" of an increasing pressure of "nothingness" ...

Mythbusters did a great episode using heat/cooling and vacuum to implode a rail tanker.

 

[Immortality]

All you can do on a forum is try to help people out and offer them the "Correct" information
If people are too stubborn to accept when they're wrong, or don't want to take on your advice......It's their loss mate

Yep. It's been fun though, otherwise it would have been a very long and monotonous evening .

 

[1985VK]

Mythbusters did a great episode using heat/cooling and vacuum to implode a rail tanker.

There are some things that are going on that make me wonder if we really understand the forces at work ...

 

[gohrdrgomad]

Opinion or fact?

Water conducts heat better than a glycol/water mix.

Water will Transfer heat better than a combination of glycol and water up to its failing point.

Water will freeze at 0c and boil at 100c, a mixture reduces water vapourization compared to without because a glycol based mixture will not boil and therefore not steam.

A plain water application if it gets to 100c will boil unlike a gylcol based coolant. So glycol mix controls/manages/stabilizes heat more effective to a higher temp as glycol based coolant can handle higher temperatures.

Glycol mix will evaporate eventually when it gets hot enough, but it will evaporate slower than water. Water will leave you with no protection against scale exess heat, corrosion & oxidation.

If something does manage to fail in the system the gylcol assist with higher temps and would avoid boiling unlike the plain water.

A 50% glycol mixture will increase from 104c+ to even higher, efficiently eliminating the 100c water boil also it vaporizing leaving a hot air pocket that will enevetably cause damage as a result of not cooling a affected area trapped with stem/air. If water boils it vapourizes, evaporates leaving a hot air pocket not cooling.

Water boiling at a lower temp, creating evapouration also vapourization of the total water amount, is reduced over the duration of operation leaving areas within the system without water transfer properties.

A radiator should not get to 100c to boil unless there is a failure in the system in that case a failure is likely to increase the temperature to above 104c which a gylcol coolant would handle.

My car stays cool during the Australian summer.

 

[losh1971]

Water will Transfer heat better than a combination of glycol and water up to its failing point.

Water will freeze at 0c and boil at 100c, a mixture reduces water vapourization compared to without because a glycol based mixture will not boil and therefore not steam.

A plain water application if it gets to 100c will boil unlike a gylcol based coolant. So glycol mix controls/manages/stabilizes heat more effective to a higher temp as glycol based coolant can handle higher temperatures.

Glycol mix will evaporate eventually when it gets hot enough, but it will evaporate slower than water. Water will leave you with no protection against scale exess heat, corrosion & oxidation.

If something does manage to fail in the system the gylcol assist with higher temps and would avoid boiling unlike the plain water.

A 50% glycol mixture will increase from 104c+ to even higher, efficiently eliminating the 100c water boil also it vaporizing leaving a hot air pocket that will enevetably cause damage as a result of not cooling a affected area trapped with stem/air. If water boils it vapourizes, evaporates leaving a hot air pocket not cooling.

Water boiling at a lower temp, creating evapouration also vapourization of the total water amount, is reduced over the duration of operation leaving areas within the system without water transfer properties.

A radiator should not get to 100c to boil unless there is a failure in the system in that case a failure is likely to increase the temperature to above 104c which a gylcol coolant would handle.

are you saying a 50/50 mix will stop the engine from boiling? If yes i can tell you this is not the case and it will indeed boil.

 

[gohrdrgomad]

When it was flushed it was filled with coolant but now to save money I replace it with water. Can't see what and where it's leaking from

As you have stated the addition of "water" only has not corrected the cooling sytem failure, although present with what coolant/water mix was provided, best take it to a cooling specialist like Natrad for a diagnosis eg: to pressure test etc if you are incapable of diagnosing what is in front of you.

 

[Immortality]

Water will Transfer heat better than a combination of glycol and water up to its failing point.

Water will freeze at 0c and boil at 100c, a mixture reduces water vapourization compared to without because a glycol based mixture will not boil and therefore not steam.

A plain water application if it gets to 100c will boil unlike a gylcol based coolant. So glycol mix controls/manages/stabilizes heat more effective to a higher temp as glycol based coolant can handle higher temperatures.

Glycol mix will evaporate eventually when it gets hot enough, but it will evaporate slower than water. Water will leave you with no protection against scale exess heat, corrosion & oxidation.

If something does manage to fail in the system the gylcol assist with higher temps and would avoid boiling unlike the plain water.

A 50% glycol mixture will increase from 104c+ to even higher, efficiently eliminating the 100c water boil also it vaporizing leaving a hot air pocket that will enevetably cause damage as a result of not cooling a affected area trapped with stem/air. If water boils it vapourizes, evaporates leaving a hot air pocket not cooling.

Water boiling at a lower temp, creating evapouration also vapourization of the total water amount, is reduced over the duration of operation leaving areas within the system without water transfer properties.

A radiator should not get to 100c to boil unless there is a failure in the system in that case a failure is likely to increase the temperature to above 104c which a gylcol coolant would handle.

My car stays cool during the Australian summer.

And yet you completely ignore the bit about the cooling system been pressurised. Water under pressure does NOT boil at 100° C this is scientific fact. I've posted links and charts with the relevant info. Pressuring the cooling system raises the boiling point of the coolant much more than running a 50:50 mix of water and glycol. You can keep posting the same dribble but you are factually incorrect and completely ignoring a major component/function of a pressurised cooling system. You also completely ignore the fact that the V6 ecotec/L67 normal operating temp is from 91°C to 104°C (thermostat temp to low speed thermofan on temp).

The OP's problem is that the engine is loosing coolant and it's 99% likely that the intake gaskets are fucked. When this occurs the engine will slowly loose coolant via the combustion process. If the gaskets get bad enough than the cooling system will not pressurise correctly and an overheating condition may then occur. In this case the failure has no direct link to the type of coolant used but rather a loss of coolant and lack of pressure in the system.