Wheel Alignment for Redline

[Ginger Beer]

The grip of your tyres will also dictate your settings.

As will how aggressive you drive, be it street or track.

If you run cheap hard tyres like Achilles or simular the grip will be less than a Hankook Ventus S1 or Bridgestone Potenza RE003, for example.

The grippier tyre will roll over on the suspension more as opposed to the cheaper tyre "slipping".

If the OP post up picks of his tyres it would make finding a starting point much easier.

Photos of where the tyre face meets the sidewall on both sides of the tyre, front and rear are required.

Disregard the nail, look at where the tread and sidewall meet, this tyre seems to be using most of its tyre, but, you would need the inner edge to be typical.

Disclaimer: I'm no expert, my experience comes from tracking my own cars and setting up my street cars to handle on good tyres without undue wear. Also different tyres brands have different characteristics, some shoulders are more rounded (performance) and some are more square, but some cheap hard (400 treadwear) rubber like Achilles look like performance tyres with rounded shoulders, but are far from it.

I've also never spent more than $80 for a full alignment to my specs, and it typically takes no longer than 30 minutes.

Spinning the spanners ain't rocket science, you do need to know how spinning them on one adjustment effects the other settings though.

Vid from below link

Good read > http://racingcardynamics.com/racing-tires-lateral-force/

 

[vc commodore]

The grip of your tyres will also dictate your settings.

As will how aggressive you drive, be it street or track.

If you run cheap hard tyres like Achilles or simular the grip will be less than a Hankook Ventus S1 or Bridgestone Potenza RE003, for example.

The grippier tyre will roll over on the suspension more as opposed to the cheaper tyre "slipping".

If the OP post up picks of his tyres it would make finding a starting point much easier.

Photos of where the tyre face meets the sidewall on both sides of the tyre, front and rear are required.

Disregard the nail, look at where the tread and sidewall meet, this tyre seems to be using most of its tyre, but, you would need the inner edge to be typical.

Disclaimer: I'm no expert, my experience comes from tracking my own cars and setting up my street cars to handle on good tyres without undue wear. Also different tyres brands have different characteristics, some shoulders are more rounded (performance) and some are more square, but some cheap hard (400 treadwear) rubber like Achilles look like performance tyres with rounded shoulders, but are far from it.

I've also never spent more than $80 for a full alignment to my specs, and it typically takes no longer than 30 minutes.

Spinning the spanners ain't rocket science, you do need to know how spinning them on one adjustment effects the other settings though.

Vid from below link

Good read > http://racingcardynamics.com/racing-tires-lateral-force/

Bit of news to me...Different tyres require different settings....

Alignment settings are dictated by tyre wear....Tyre wear is partially created by how the owner drives the car and the even the area in which the car is driven.....ie, windy roads require a little more negative camber due to the weight being shifted side to side more frequently, which also applies to spirited driving.


Spinning the spanners to adjust the settings, to prevent tyre wear isn't something that is learnt over night, or even looking at some youtube stuff.....I have been doing it for over 20 years, as my employment and I'm still learning...

 

[Ginger Beer]

Bit of news to me...Different tyres require different settings....

Alignment settings are dictated by tyre wear....Tyre wear is partially created by how the owner drives the car and the even the area in which the car is driven.....ie, windy roads require a little more negative camber due to the weight being shifted side to side more frequently, which also applies to spirited driving.


Spinning the spanners to adjust the settings, to prevent tyre wear isn't something that is learnt over night, or even looking at some youtube stuff.....I have been doing it for over 20 years, as my employment and I'm still learning...

I have been able to have more neg camber for semi slick or slick tyres.

My old Skyline liked around -2.5 on the front with Hankook RS4's, but I needed -3.5 with Dunlop DZ's.

The -2.5 had the RS4 wearing nice, but, had the Dunlop pushing over onto the sidewall, it needed that extra deg due to the extra grip the tyre offered.

Extra grip = extra speed = extra load.

Like I said, I'm no expert, I did spend alot of time playing with tyres, pressures and alignment setting to go fast, and not eat tyres.

 

[shane_3800]

So why did you make up special mounts then?

They held the wheel clamps and heads on the hoist then at the end of the day you pull the heads off the clamps and set them on the cabinet to charge over night.
My old work still uses the same model but it was replaced after 10 years of use about 2 years ago it was new when I started I still have a beer with them now and then. I just wanted to get into more engine and trans work so I left 6 years ago. I still do my own cars on it for free lol.

 

[vc commodore]

They held the wheel clamps and heads on the hoist then at the end of the day you pull the heads off the clamps and set them on the cabinet to charge over night.
My old work still uses the same model but it was replaced after 10 years of use about 2 years ago it was new when I started I still have a beer with them now and then. I just wanted to get into more engine and trans work so I left 6 years ago. I still do my own cars on it for free lol.

Beissbarth still supplied these mounts....It's a T piece, with a slot inbetween the top section, for the clamp to sit in.

The other mount they supplied could be mounted on the alignment machine cabinet, or on the hoist legs....

So why you made these is beyond me, when Beissbarth supplied them

 

[shane_3800]

Beissbarth still supplied these mounts....It's a T piece, with a slot inbetween the top section, for the clamp to sit in.

The other mount they supplied could be mounted on the alignment machine cabinet, or on the hoist legs....

So why you made these is beyond me, when Beissbarth supplied them

Cost savings.

 

[vc commodore]

I have been able to have more neg camber for semi slick or slick tyres.

My old Skyline liked around -2.5 on the front with Hankook RS4's, but I needed -3.5 with Dunlop DZ's.

The -2.5 had the RS4 wearing nice, but, had the Dunlop pushing over onto the sidewall, it needed that extra deg due to the extra grip the tyre offered.

Extra grip = extra speed = extra load.

Like I said, I'm no expert, I did spend alot of time playing with tyres, pressures and alignment setting to go fast, and not eat tyres.

I used to reguarly set street stocks up...Mainly XD/XF's...Now street stocks are speedway cars...

One in particular sticks out...He ran expensive tyres (retreads)...I used to set his camber at 2 degree negative and 5 mm total toe out...Yes it handled well and was competative and had excellent tyre wear across the face....He got a knock one meet and the best I could get his camber was 5 degrees negative after that.....From the next meet with the 5 degrees negative camber, he commented how well it handled compared to pre-knock....Tyre wear was still the same.

So moral of the story....It's not the tyre that determines the settings, it's how the car is used....

 

[vc commodore]

Cost savings.

Here you made it seem as though it was a necessity to make them, as they weren't available , now it shows why you made them....

Might be adviseable not stretching the truth

 

[shane_3800]

Here you made it seem as though it was a necessity to make them, as they weren't available , now it shows why you made them....

Might be adviseable not stretching the truth

That's your skewed interpretation.

 

[Ginger Beer]

I used to reguarly set street stocks up...Mainly XD/XF's...Now street stocks are speedway cars...

One in particular sticks out...He ran expensive tyres (retreads)...I used to set his camber at 2 degree negative and 5 mm total toe out...Yes it handled well and was competative and had excellent tyre wear across the face....He got a knock one meet and the best I could get his camber was 5 degrees negative after that.....From the next meet with the 5 degrees negative camber, he commented how well it handled compared to pre-knock....Tyre wear was still the same.

So moral of the story....It's not the tyre that determines the settings, it's how the car is used....

My experience on tarmac is different.

The softer the tyre the more camber I needed to dial in, the softer tyre with more camber always gave me better times.

It's easy to tell if you don't have enough camber as the tyre will roll over and you will have wear down near where the tread meets the sidewall, to much and the wear will finish on the top of the tyre.

For the track to get it right you need a needle pyrometer, this will tell the real story of where your camber and pressure is at.

Me, for a easy guide to how my tyre is wearing on the street I use the wear marker arrows as a guide, I try to get the same distance between the inner and outer edges. The RE003's seem to like 36 psi cold on the street.

As for toe, with rwd I like 0 f and 0 to a little in at the rear. AWD is 0 f and r.

I have no idea about what works with FWD.

This is typically how I like my cars setup, not overly sprung and typically well dampered.(in saying that I'm currently running FE2 spec with king springs and ultima dampers on my VX with stock sway bars, it's a nice comfy ride which actually handles quite well for what it is).