[WTF-SIX] VSII 6 Speed Manual Supercharged 4.2 Litre

[Decicrate]

Thanks Barry! Oh I'd like to see how you wired your VDO corrector, i ended up buying one from Mal Wood and the way i've got it working at the moment means that the 2 speed sensor wires at the ECU arent connected to anything at all! When i got it, it was calibrated for 3.9:1 diff gears and so i had to change that, but the setting it's on now for my 3.5's is nowhere near the 3.9's setting.

The thing is with the VDO box is that it also converts the signal type that is output by the T56's speed sensor (magnetic reluctor), to what the original getrag's speed sensor would have output (hall effect). Therefore with the T56's sensor connected to the ECU, it receives a signal that it can't really make sense of. It's still a bit of a headache for me lol!

If you wouldnt mind i'd love to see a diagram of how yours is wired! I think you already told me how to adjust the PPK value, is this done with Kalmaker, and are there other known ways to do it?

Ok just so we are on the same page.

Your VDO corrector box should be wired between the ECU and the speedo, NOT between the gearbox and ECU. This is a separate loom so to speak.

Now gearbox to ECU.
Seeing that yours was a GETRAG, the speed sensor wiring is two wires.
Cut the plug off the loom and connect wires to the T56 speed sensor.
When Dick does the tune, he should be able to check that the Vehicle Speed Sensor is set to High Resolution.
Then the table I adjust to get the road speed and the ECU speed to be the same is called VAR:MPH:MPHFAC, this is a Kalmaker table and will have a different name depending on Dicks software. Getting this correct will have no effect on the speedo read out on the dash, this is the ECU only. My Vehicle Speed Sensor is set to 40 Pulses per revolution.
To work out the value for the VAR:MPH:MPHFAC is 512*final drive/tyre diameter in meters.


6200rpm does sound good! Is that where yours is set? As long as you think it wont do anything too crazy to the internals at that rpm then thats what i'll ask for in the tune! Obviously Dick will tell me what rpm he thinks will be good as well.
I have mine at 6100rpm at the moment, will be going a little higher next tune.

Man 4000rpm must be annoying for your LS1 MAF to be running out! You can't take it any higher until you go bigger or MAP based atm, is that right? I guess i'll be getting a MAFless tune done then!
I can run a 100MM MAF which will solve the problem, but MAFless is the logical way to go.

The reverse lockout would be great to get working with the ECU but yeah i think it will be hard to do. I've currently got mine wired to the brake pedal, but I've noticed that when driving with the lights on but without my foot on the brake, the solenoid manages to get enough juice to open up occasionally! It only does it with the lights on though, prehaps i'll have to add a resistor inline between the brake pedal switch and the solenoid or something. It'd be better to be switched by speed rather than having to have a foot on the brake.
In the later models it is run via a speed switch which I think is operated from the BCM.


And a 61mm pulley, are you serious? Apparently on a 3.8 that'd theoretically push 20psi! While i'd like to, i dont think thatd be a great idea un-cooled would it? I'm keen to put a smaller one on for the time being, but i'll see what Dick thinks too.
Sorry I forgot that your was not cooled,,, forget i said 61MM

hope this helps

 

[wamboin23]

with the reverse lockout, Jaycar do a Frequency Switch Kit. Connect to a signal (speed, tach etc), then adjust it to the correct frequency. When it gets there, triggers a relay. I was using one for my shift light setup, works great.

I've actually got a spare one here if you want one to mess around with. PM me.

 

[ashleysnep]

Here you go dan,

Frequency Switch - Jaycar Electronics

This with a relay would be perfect for the reverse lockout, infact what is the rating of the solenoid? I need to help you get this sorted, ive had heaps of ideas for it, just need to put it on paper.

 

[wamboin23]

Here you go dan,

Frequency Switch - Jaycar Electronics

This with a relay would be perfect for the reverse lockout, infact what is the rating of the solenoid? I need to help you get this sorted, ive had heaps of ideas for it, just need to put it on paper.

let me know when you try and sort it out with him, I'll send you my spare one, saves buying and making one for it not to work...

 

[HoldenManDan]

Hey thanks for looking out for me guys! I'll hassle you about that switch when i'm ready Brendan! For now the brake pedal will do, i really need to get the ECU seeing the right road speed before i go for this, but it's definately something i wanna do! I need to work out why the ecu sees the T56 speed signal as so erratic! I've emailed Dick today about this question, to see if there's possibly differences in the tunes from a T5 ecotec to a getrag ecotec, as from my understanding the T56 speed sensor is the same type as the T5. The getrag is different! Heres a screen grab of a log done by Dick, showing Throttle position, RPM, MAF flow and Speed as seen by the ECU. At this particular log point, the maf air flow (in grams per second) is at 237.4. Dick said that the MAF will max at about 245, so it was lucky i didnt go any higher with the rpm. But the point is the speed signal is rediculously erratic.

I hope to take it back to Dick real soon to hopefully sort this out and get a mafless tune done on it, which will hopefully also remedy the "knock" that it's been getting.

 

[delcowizzid]

T5 and getrag use different tunes and a different pin at the ecu as the input

 

[HoldenManDan]

Ok thought so, as i've read conflicting wiring diagrams! Can you confirm that the T5 and T56 speedo senders are basically the same? If they are, is there a way i can change the tune and/or wiring so the ECU can see the correct road speed?

 

[wamboin23]

how many wires on the T56 VSS?

as far as I know, the T56 VSS is a two wire "inductive" type sensor, while the T5 is a 3 wire Hall Effect one.
inductive will give you a sine wave output, while a Hall effect will give you a square wave output.

Does the speedo itself read ok? maybe just need a capacitor somewhere between the VSS and ECU, I've had to do this a few times with speedos that read erratically.

 

[HamaTime™]

When are you planning to get this thing on the Dyno Dan? How many k's have you done on the new motor? Running in ok? Not too many issues?

 

[HoldenManDan]

Hmmm little while with no news...

how many wires on the T56 VSS?

as far as I know, the T56 VSS is a two wire "inductive" type sensor, while the T5 is a 3 wire Hall Effect one.
inductive will give you a sine wave output, while a Hall effect will give you a square wave output.

Does the speedo itself read ok? maybe just need a capacitor somewhere between the VSS and ECU, I've had to do this a few times with speedos that read erratically.

Hey Brendan!

The T56 has 2 wires. Does this mean that its the same type of sensor as my getrag sensor which was also 2 wire? I cant be sure if the speed signal seen by the ecu changed from how it appears in the above screenshots of the diagnostic, even after Dick changed the PPK value.

The speedo reads ok with the VDO corrector wired to it, apart from the speed dipping and rising slightly with alternating on/off the accelerator. I think that might have something to do with the input voltage to either the VSS or the speedo corrector fluctuating with load. Also sometimes reads slowly while im stationary in neutral, but usually goes away if i step on the clutch. No idea why but i hope its something i can fix! I'm tempted to try fitting a reluctor wheel to my tailshaft down at the diff flange and using the same sensor from my getrag box, but thats some stuffing around i hope i dont have to worry about! In theory though, with some modding to the PPK value in the ecu, i should be able to get that setup working perfectly!

You'll have to enlighten me further about the whole capacitor thing between VSS and ECU too! :bow:

When are you planning to get this thing on the Dyno Dan? How many k's have you done on the new motor? Running in ok? Not too many issues?

Hey dude, i'll put it up on the rollers after it's done 5000km. I've done about 3400km at the moment, but havent driven it for 4 weeks because i really think it needs a tune to get the AFR's right. No real issues apart from that and the whole speedo head#### which i'm so totally over!

Next time i really drive it anywhere will hopefully be to see Dick and get a Mafless tune done, which hopefully sorts everything out! I called him a couple of weeks ago and he said he'd need to get back to me about when i could take it down, but havent heard back yet so i will call him...

lol called him up and I'm pencilled in for next saturday morning, but due to other stuff i might have to bump it back another week to the following saturday.

To make sure i'm back up around the 10psi mark in time for the tune i just purchased a 3" (76mm) pulley, which i'll fit when i'm down there! A similar build to mine over on the L67torque forum, but thru an auto box, slightly bigger exhaust and a different cam and at 6-7psi netted him 209rwkw, also uncooled which i think is freakin amazing!

Hopefully more news soon...