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Discussion in 'VY - VZ - WK - WL - V2' started by Gouldinator1, Aug 14, 2011.
Thanks a million mate.
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Not much to report on the car, most of the stuff I have been doing is little maintenance things.
Did some touch up paint work to the top of the door handles on the passenger side of the car. They had flaked around the top.
I fiddled with the map lights since they were flicking. It seems they just had a bad connection and with some tweaking have worked sweet since.
I had to fix the headlight switch again. Last time I fixed the two outside LEDs, this time I had to replace the two inside ones. Since all four LEDs went at around the same time they probably reached their end of life.
The passenger seat belt buckle had this Velcro, tape stuck on it. Using some citrus glue/sticky stuff remover I cleaned it up.
Papered up the seats
Nice and clean
I tidied up the parcel shelf removing unnecessary pieces.
The volt meter dial started playing up so I thought I would clean up some dodgy wiring that I had spliced together.
I bought some crimp butt connectors and heat shrink to redo the wiring
The wiring spliced and taped up.
New connectors and heat shrink
Since doing this the volt gauge is still playing up and these dials are no longer sold. So it would seem to be time to upgrade to some autometer gauges in the not to distant future.
I was also playing around with an idea for a false bottom in the boot. After cutting out the pieces and seeing what they look like I am rethinking my idea and design. So version one ended up in the bin, oh well.
At some point I had the 'bright idea' to freshen up the interior and pieces I painted since they had been sitting in the car for over an year. The plan was to buff, polish and wax the pieces. Plus I wanted to do this using an 3" air polisher instead of by hand. Altogether these are things I put together.
This is the first time I have tried using these products so I wasn't sure of the result and what affect it would have on stuff I painted. (Since I ain't perfect)
Before - I decided to test the products out on the radiator cover and this is the process I used.
Rinse - First a rinse
Foam Wash - I used the Gold Class Car wash, this was then rinsed off and dried.
Clay Bar - done with the Quick Detailer
Buff - I used a wool pad with the Ultimate Compound. I chose wool since I didn't want to cut too deep and burn the paint. If I was to do this again I probably wouldn't use the Ultimate Compound as I don't think my clear coat was good enough for this product.
Polish - Soft yellow pad with the Professional Show Car glaze polish
Wax - Gold Class wax with a super soft white pad
Nice, clean with a bit of a shine to it.
From this I then did the rest.
The pictures don't do it justice. The colour is more vibrant and has a gleam to it. Overall pretty happy and impressed with it considering I painted these pieces.
I got some Whiteline quick release clamps for the strut brace to try out. They are definitely much easier to undo compared to the bolts and make accessing and removing the engine cover easy. I will see how they go...
Installed in the car...
It has been a little while but not much has happened to the car, just a few little maintenance tasks.
I got a new window mould for the drivers door and new glove box clips
I got the new clips to hopefully fix my sagging glovebox.
For the window moulds they are easy to replace. Undo one screw and then unclip the old one.
I needed to replace the seal because some of my sound deadener (Focal BAM) inside the door had come loose and caught on the window. When using the window and bringing it back up some of the sound deadener came with it grabbing on the seal and wrecking it as you can see below.
The new mould.
I did notice that it was more a matte black than the shiny black of the others. I was told it is because it is new compared to the others and in time will wear into the shiny black but that is to be seen.
After I put the new glovebox clips in it did sit better but not great. It sits low on the left, I believe because the glovebox was warped.
So I picked up a new one.
After a quick wipe down and a light rubbing of Armour All, to bring out the colour, it turned out all right
New glovebox in place and sits much nicer and aligns well.
I was at a local market when I came across these...
And thought what the hell...
All tucked up under the rim.
Besides this the only other thing I have done is replace a tail light globe.
I finally replaced the carpet liner of the boot. I took off the old suede one, which I made with the Holden logo, when I put on the bobtail.
Not much has been happening with the car. I have been gathering a few bits and pieces for some ideas I am tossing up.
I did have to get some new tyres though. I decided to try out the ATR Sport 2 after running the ATR Sport for a while. I bought them from The Wheel Deal and they arrived yesterday.
Hopefully I will get them fitted tomorrow.
I got the tyres sorted and on the car. So far very impressed with them. I just have to wait for some rain to see if there is any improvement over the old model in the wet.
They also have a cool tread pattern.
I got an order of new brakes from GSL Rallysport and over the last little while I have been installing them in the car.
DBA 4000 Series T3 Slotted Rotors (Front & Rear)
QFM A1RM Pads (Front & Rear)
TRW GP600 Dot 4 Brake Fluid
I did a fair bit of cleaning, wire wheeled the hubs, painted different bits and flushed the brake fluid. Below are a few photos
The DBA brakes
A little touch up of the red on the calipers
and I gave the struts a lick of paint.
Nice work with the brakes dude looks great. Doing mine very soon I got the rotors opted for the t2's being on a budget and ill be painting the calipers white over black. Will be going on end of the month
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Cheers mate, it is fairly straight forward and good fun. Though I wasted a ton of time removing the old rotors since they were nice and rusted to the hubs
For my next major project I am redesigning and rebuilding my sound system.
Reasons for doing so I have a new bigger 4 channel amp, I want to re-cable with 0 gauge and I wanted to build a ported box since I have yet to do so.
Other things I am planning to do along with this is a floating amp rack and big 3 upgrade.
So designs of what I am planning to do...
Converted to metric and a little rounding.
I am fairly happy with this design. I got the port area per foot into that 12-16 cube range and the port ratio of 1:6 I was after. And I was looking for a tuning of 33 to 35Hz and achieved that too.
I did get only a net volume of 1.78 cubic ft (when recommended is 1.79) but I will probably have my bracing a little smaller plus I didn't add in the flared port so I should be bang on.
Note: Measurements are for one enclosure (one sub), I just copied it and flipped it over since both enclosures will be separate.
3D models. Front of box.
Without the front baffle, just to show the flared port. I had had enough by now and didn't want to put the rounded corners on the front board but you get the idea.
Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - Updated 8/18 - Subwoofers / Enclosures - SMD Forum
Ported Box Design: A Tutorial *Updated 6/30* - Subwoofers / Enclosures - SMD Forum
PUNCH Subwoofers - P3D2-12 - Rockford Fosgate®
PUNCH Subwoofers - P3D2-12 - Rockford Fosgate®
Some nice progress mate, love your attention to detail and doing things slightly different to every one else.
I like the wrinkle paint effect on your dash, looks good
Plus everything in this car looks neat and tidy in the photos
Nothing better than a car that is well looked after
Great work mate
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Cheers, I do probably take more time than is needed to do stuff but I like to spend time on the little details.
Very nice mate! good to see your having a go at thing yourself
A little update of the sub box progress.
After spending ages measuring up the wood I cut it all out...
...and the sub hole.
Then mapped out the design on the bottom piece.
Dummy up of the design.
The port design.
Also I cleaned up the boards with marks on them and routed the edges of the port for smoother air flow.
I just need to cut out the bracing pieces and then I can start gluing the box together.
After the sides were attached I did a quick dummy fit in the boot.
While I was waiting for bits to glue I made up what will be my new fuse holder out of 1mm thick aluminum.
In Etch Primer
I sprayed it with a white base coat, then colour and finished it with clear.
What are you installing for the sound system? What speakers/amps and what size fuse?
Before you replaced the bootlid liner did you Dynamat inside the boot lid cavity? I did a big system install a year or so ago and did inside the boot lid. It resonates like a ####er if you miss deadening that lol
It will be the same gear that was previously in the car, just new design and set up. The only change was the 4 channel amp from the Focal Solid 4 to a Rockford Fosgate T600-4. The fuses will be 300 amps for the 0 gauge.
And yep I have Dynamat'ed everything because it does resonate so much in these cars.
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