VS V6 Turbo build

[Cameron Tomlonson]

Was 38mm 2 bolt but now a 50mm v band 21psi sometimes here 23psi that's about our limit for stock style head gaskets lol

Hey, finally got this turbo thing off the ground. Tonyz garage stage 4 kit with pulsar gtx3582rs turbo.

What should i do for the auto and ecu. I dont wanna do things twice.

I was thinking haltech 750 and rebuilding the stock VS auto (im column shift) but ive read that the auto wont hold the power even being rebuilt.

Cheers

P.S
6 weeks kit arrives
To start with I'll just baby it with 4psi wastegate spring in, bigger fuel pump and raising rate reg till i get it tuned.
Geelong.

 

[Commo64]

Hey, finally got this turbo thing off the ground. Tonyz garage stage 4 kit with pulsar gtx3582rs turbo.

What should i do for the auto and ecu. I dont wanna do things twice.

I was thinking haltech 750 and rebuilding the stock VS auto (im column shift) but ive read that the auto wont hold the power even being rebuilt.

Cheers

P.S
6 weeks kit arrives
To start with I'll just baby it with 4psi wastegate spring in, bigger fuel pump and raising rate reg till i get it tuned.
Geelong.

I doubt the person you quoted is going to reply, as he hasn't been on this site for over 2 years...

 

[Cameron Tomlonson]

I doubt the person you quoted is going to reply, as he hasn't been on this site for over 2 years...

Ah cheers

 

[Commo64]

Ah cheers

You might need to start a new thread

 

[Immortality]

Moved this to it's own thread.

I don't think you'll hear from delcowizzid as he's gone silent online for a while now.

 

[Draimond]

I'm in the middle of doing this stuff on my car, so I have a bunch to say and it's not coming out in a coherent order, sorry.

Haltech recommends the Elite 2000 or 2500. The 750 will not do idle control among other things and must run in piggyback with the factory ECU.

(I'd probably recommend the 750 on 4 cylinders in piggyback. I went for the 2000 for my turbo 6 project and kinda want the 2500 now and a PMU)

Also, Haltech products are NOT cheaper when you buy them direct from Haltech.
Some of their products have been discontinued: Elite 550, Elite 950, Elite 1000, Elite 2000, Elite REM, Elite VMS, Elite VMS-T.
Shop around, old stock is cheaper. Golby, EFI Solutions etc.

• How much of this will you be doing yourself? Wiring etc?
• Do you want to run the factory ignition and DFI module?
• Do you have a power target long term?

Factory 8 inch diffs can't handle much more than 450hp after being built.
Stock conrods break at less then 300hp too don't they?

One way valve for the brake booster.
Internal PCV needs to be blocked.
Fuel injectors and fuel type?
Can bus - wideband, flex fuel?

A 600 x 300 x 50 intercooler will be hard up against the AC line and impact bar. If you're keeping the AC, you'll probably want a smaller FMIC. Plus that's a 3" in/out on the cooler? And 2.25" on the turbo? That's a bunch of volume that turbo has to fill before it finds the throttle body.

The 4L60E requires an electronic transmission controller, the stock ecu does this in factory form.
You can do this with a Haltech but you need plenty of outputs.

Don't forget you need ecu outputs for the Speedo, oil light etc. Boost control solenoids require ecu outputs.
You can get IO expander boxes for the Haltech ecosystem.
And you can get stand alone trans controllers.
And you can get non electronic transmissions.

Ring Haltech!!! Have a chat with them about what you're options are and what the limitations will be.

Pick a tuner, speak to them in the planning and development stage. Ask them what sensors they would like to see added or replaced on the car to make the tune safer and more accurate.

Continue the build thread here and let us all know how you're going and what you've learnt etc

 

[Draimond]

I've been thinking about this more.
Any ECU will have its challenges, or rather, custom work required to make it work. So go with whatever takes your fancy and fits the budget.

I think the 750 in piggyback isn't actually a terrible idea on the surface. You get control of the injectors, but no timing control. ( I can see an argument for requiring timing retard. Thinking fuel composition just for starters )
I feel like you'll be limited to a low power figure with the 750, but I'm not saying that's a bad thing. If we're talking about a vehicle that lasts, can use stock ring gap wrecker motors etc. How much power... idk, but you have control over air and fuel so that's a big chuck of the recipe sorted, knock will be the limitation.

I get the feeling the VS ECU could get by with no O2 signal. It's not controlling fuel after all. Main aim is to keep it happy so you don't loose timing over it freaking out. Just run a single channel wideband 02 for the Haltech.
I think pins D3 and D4 at the VS ECU are Cam and Crank respectively. Splice those out to the Haltech.
Keep the MAF wired up to the VS ECU so it's happy(ish), but disregard it on the Haltech because you're tuning Volumetric Efficiency off the in built MAP sensor.
B12 is spliced to the 750's pin 26 for both injectors voltage reference and ECU power ( this is combined on the 750, seperate on the 2000 )
Add a Bosch air temp sensor Infront of the throttle for the 750. Keep the factory IAT wired up and cold, it'll retard timing if it sees heat. You could combat heat in the 750 by opening the wastegate more to lower boost, maybe wire the 750 into the fan and even add fuel to cool the cylinders.
And please, if you do nothing else I've mentioned, add a Bosch temp pressure combo sensor to the oil. Ecotec's run dangerously high oil temps in stock form and the oil pump will suck air when you're at moderate to high G's.

I'm just skimming the surface here, but the 750 is sounding viable and budget friendly.
If however, you want a 9 inch diff, powerglide, forged internals and 500+ HP, disregard the above and get an elite 2500.

 

[Cameron Tomlonson]

I've been thinking about this more.
Any ECU will have its challenges, or rather, custom work required to make it work. So go with whatever takes your fancy and fits the budget.

I think the 750 in piggyback isn't actually a terrible idea on the surface. You get control of the injectors, but no timing control. ( I can see an argument for requiring timing retard. Thinking fuel composition just for starters )
I feel like you'll be limited to a low power figure with the 750, but I'm not saying that's a bad thing. If we're talking about a vehicle that lasts, can use stock ring gap wrecker motors etc. How much power... idk, but you have control over air and fuel so that's a big chuck of the recipe sorted, knock will be the limitation.

I get the feeling the VS ECU could get by with no O2 signal. It's not controlling fuel after all. Main aim is to keep it happy so you don't loose timing over it freaking out. Just run a single channel wideband 02 for the Haltech.
I think pins D3 and D4 at the VS ECU are Cam and Crank respectively. Splice those out to the Haltech.
Keep the MAF wired up to the VS ECU so it's happy(ish), but disregard it on the Haltech because you're tuning Volumetric Efficiency off the in built MAP sensor.
B12 is spliced to the 750's pin 26 for both injectors voltage reference and ECU power ( this is combined on the 750, seperate on the 2000 )
Add a Bosch air temp sensor Infront of the throttle for the 750. Keep the factory IAT wired up and cold, it'll retard timing if it sees heat. You could combat heat in the 750 by opening the wastegate more to lower boost, maybe wire the 750 into the fan and even add fuel to cool the cylinders.
And please, if you do nothing else I've mentioned, add a Bosch temp pressure combo sensor to the oil. Ecotec's run dangerously high oil temps in stock form and the oil pump will suck air when you're at moderate to high G's.

I'm just skimming the surface here, but the 750 is sounding viable and budget friendly.
If however, you want a 9 inch diff, powerglide, forged internals and 500+ HP, disregard the above and get an elite 2500.

Oh man thats alot of information. And as far as wiring goes im a real noob.
Im a bolt on guy lol.

98ron fuel will be used.
Injectors and fuel pump updrade need to be sorted also.

So i dont have AC.
Im using the stage 4 turbo kit from Tonyz Garage. (Capable of 350rwkw at 21psi, I will only be looking to run 10 to 12psi which should see 250ish rwkw) plenty in a daily driven work ute.
Auto is stock for time being.
Diff is 28 spline with 3.08 harrop centre.
Just done brakes. Std size drilled and slotted with good pads and fully adjustable coilovers.
VY 18" wheels with semi slicks on the rear (180 treadwear)

I have done some extensive googling and some guys are running low 10s by just tuning std ecu.
So I'll be talking to local hsv tuner about this to start with.
Also read pinning in a VY v6 ecu is a good upgrade and best is an ls1 ecu...??? And not going aftermarket unless swapping to none electronic auto.

 

[Cameron Tomlonson]

Not that i expect to run 10's, far from it. Just using as an example.

 

[Cameron Tomlonson]

Picture of said Ute.