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What is the Best Engine oil for my VT?

veclubby

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no motors dont just leak wen there are cold because oil gets thinner as it gets hotter...and the as viscosity grades are a rate of flow 10w would mean at colder temps the oil flows like an sae 10 grade oil...but sum do as u said wen gaskets have shat themselves and need replacing....i just think that using such a thin oil on a car thats not that new isnt goin to see any benefit unless the motor has developed a severe lifter tick...and is more likely to see more useage of oil and possible leaks. on a newer engine i would say 5w would be fine but in this case i would use the 10w ;)
 

nedlohvets

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Hmm, there was always the risk that some nut would to make something out of the analogy I used............most people get the idea........
yes Id live just as long(maybe longer) if I ate bread, cabbage, porridge multivitamins etc ....rather than my usual diet of caviare...
perhaps I should put a tv infront of the car it while its parked so it doesnt get bored.........

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA:hit:ALL HAIL 2 THE COMIC U DA MAN
 

Heffer_Slayer

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hmmm this is what i want to know if anyone can help me.

Will it be ok to run the oil i bought which is rated at 5-40?
I thought the first number as long as it is a top of 10 would be ok?
I thought the lower the first number the better protection upon start up?

So is the Penrite HPR 5 engine oil (rated at 5w/40) ok to use in my 1997 Holden VT Commodore?
 

pablo

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Like I said earlier, you are on yer way, just drain the oil that is in your motor, spin on the new filter, reinstal the drain plug, and simply fill the motor till its full on the dip stick (allow a little extra for the filter), What you have if ALL GOOD! You are worrying TOO much.
If any of those multitude of engine oils you see decorating the shelves were going to cause harm, there would be a warning attatched!
 

veclubby

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hmmm this is what i want to know if anyone can help me.

Will it be ok to run the oil i bought which is rated at 5-40?
I thought the first number as long as it is a top of 10 would be ok?
I thought the lower the first number the better protection upon start up?

So is the Penrite HPR 5 engine oil (rated at 5w/40) ok to use in my 1997 Holden VT Commodore?

haha this could go on forever haha

if i were you i would get the hpr10 instead...
mainly because i believe its to thin, u are correct in saying that the lower the first number the better protection at startup but ive had a feel of the hpr5 b4 and its like water its so thin...there is a point tho where an oil can be too thin for an engine
for ur car go the HPR10 :thumbsup:
final recommendation final post haha :p

cheers
ryan
 

commsirac

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haha this could go on forever haha

if i were you i would get the hpr10 instead...
mainly because i believe its to thin, engine
for ur car go the HPR10 :thumbsup:
final recommendation final post haha :p

cheers
ryanu are correct in saying that the lower the first number the better protection at startup but ive had a feel of the hpr5 b4 and its like water its so thin...there is a point tho where an oil can be too thin for an

Disagree:
The perfect oil would stay the same thickness independent of temp
Failing that the next best would be if you could have an sae monograde 40 oil in the sump and have it heated to 100C all the time so that cold starts would instantly have the oil at the right thickness.
Because most of us dont want to deal with sump heaters we use multigrade oils that stop us from having very thick oil when the motor is cold. The closer the cold oil is to the oils viscosity when hot the better. Hence the lowest W rating will be the best to achieve this, but will still have the oil many times thicker than what the optimum viscosity is with the oil at operating temp.
Provided the second number of the oil meets the specification wanted.....ie if we wanted sae grade 40 at operating temp, whether one uses 0W/40, -5W/40, 10W/40, 20W/40 the oil will always be thicker when cold than is ideal at operating temp for a 40 grade oil

It really is just a matter of how much you want to pay for the oil, and the temps at which you cold starts are done as to how low you want to go.
 

Heffer_Slayer

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Disagree:
The closer the cold oil is to the oils viscosity when hot the better. Hence the lowest W rating will be the best to achieve this, but will still have the oil many times thicker than what the optimum viscosity is with the oil at operating temp.
Provided the second number of the oil meets the specification wanted.....ie if we wanted sae grade 40 at operating temp, whether one uses 0W/40, -5W/40, 10W/40, 20W/40 the oil will always be thicker when cold than is ideal at operating temp for a 40 grade oil

It really is just a matter of how much you want to pay for the oil, and the temps at which you cold starts are done as to how low you want to go.

So in saying this...Because the oil is already thicker then need be at ambient temp it wont leak through my gaskets or piston rings or anything crazy like that?
Once it reach's its operating tempreture the oil becomes less thicker again to flow more easily yes? so in theory if you have thinner oil in a cold engine it should be BETTER for your car because there is less friction before the oil has to heat up.
Correct?
Hence why a lower first number is better, and the gasket theory is completely false because as the engine oil gets hotter it gets thinner...
 

pablo

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I am just glad that I use simple, CHEAP 20/50 or 15/40, (if that comes along as cheap). Definately saves me worrying about all this "what is best" saga! ...
...AND my Ecotech couldn't care less either way!

Pablo
 

commsirac

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So in saying this...Because the oil is already thicker then need be at ambient temp it wont leak through my gaskets or piston rings or anything crazy like that?
Once it reach's its operating tempreture the oil becomes less thicker again to flow more easily yes? so in theory if you have thinner oil in a cold engine it should be BETTER for your car because there is less friction before the oil has to heat up.
Correct?
Hence why a lower first number is better, and the gasket theory is completely false because as the engine oil gets hotter it gets thinner...

Yes............gasket theory? .....I find it unlikely that the gaps between gasket and surface could increase markedly when the engine gets cold, certainly things could contract making a gap larger somewhere....typically the gaps get smaller as the temp decreases(exception dissimilar metals....pistons and bore, ), however, the oil gets thicker at an exponential rate compared to the metal which contracts linearly in each direction with a decrease in temperature.
 

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id say go the SHELL HELIX mate 20 - 50 its the best ive always serviced my car using that oil i love it and so does my car i also service my old mans merc with that oil he said the cars so much better with that oil. i also recomend for filter wise id go ryco oil filter as they are good in the long run just like K&N last longer and are washable just cheap and easy on ur pocket.
 
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