Electronic Bi-Modal Valves

[abuch47]

Yes that's what I meant @stooge. Where did you source that relay with controller from?

 

[stooge]

It does have factory bi modals.
Would it be simpler, easier and cheaper to use vacuum valves controlled by a solenoid and switch?
Are you trying to modulate the butterfly's, or are they just open or closed?
The engine is a great source of vacuum to close the valves(normally open).

for me I find the electrical way is the easiest because all the power needed is in the boot and I don't need to mess around running vacuum tubes.
all that's needed is to run a single wire to the dash for a switch to toggle the valves or you can do what the others are doing and buy a cheap remote(rf) relay and not run any wires up to the front.

so far the parts I have got to build it cost $48, this is not the final cost its just where I am at

once I finish this I am going to look at reading the canbus messages for speed or hopefully a message that indicates that afm enables/disables.
the idea I have is to close the valves automatically when the vehicle speed gets up to something like > 70kph or when afm enables to quieten it all down when cruising

 

[Tripxit]

Hey stooge, I've done your setup from the first page, wired up the Leo and relay pcb, I've open the bi modal casing and wired up the motor and all seems to be working ok except for the cog/gear in the bi modal is't returning to the same spot, when I hit the switch for the second time it stops a few teeth out of position each time. Did yours do that?

 

[stooge]

Hey stooge, I've done your setup from the first page, wired up the Leo and relay pcb, I've open the bi modal casing and wired up the motor and all seems to be working ok except for the cog/gear in the bi modal is't returning to the same spot, when I hit the switch for the second time it stops a few teeth out of position each time. Did yours do that?

no but my motors were ceased up with water so they might have a different speed that they turn so try adjusting the pulse length which is in miliseconds 1000 = 1 second

const int PulseLength = 800; // time to power controller motors

try and make it and see how it runs

const int PulseLength = 1000; // time to power controller motors

 

[Tripxit]

Awesome, thanks. I'll play around with the setting.

 

[John Revill]

Thats if i can even get the thing to work, my pwm signal looks square and operates upto 10v but my valve controller does not respond.
I think its a hz issue so i am looking into trying to change that in arduino.

i think your cost of around $100 for the parts is spot on.
You might be able to lower the cost a bit by just using a momentary toggle switch and removing the rf remote and bluetooth but even then the parts will still be like $85+.

The PWM needs to run at 200Hz, no ifs or buts. Higher or Lower and you get nothing. The Standard Arduino PWM signal can not be set to 200Hz. You need to manually adjust the registers to get it right. A square wave signal is perfect and 10V is right on. When I get back to my Dev PC, I'll send you the code to set 200Hz.

 

[Tripxit]

Tried a heap of different setting but with all very similar results. Seems to be the motor is running for slightly less time on the return(second press of the switch).

Start position

Switch pressed once.

Second push of the switch to return.
After a few presses of the switch the alignment will be out so far that I believe it will strip the plastic gears. Doesn't make sense to me.

 

[stooge]

The PWM needs to run at 200Hz, no ifs or buts. Higher or Lower and you get nothing. The Standard Arduino PWM signal can not be set to 200Hz. You need to manually adjust the registers to get it right. A square wave signal is perfect and 10V is right on. When I get back to my Dev PC, I'll send you the code to set 200Hz.

I got it working, it was the leo board that was not allowing me to set the hz.

the nano board works with the arduino-pwm-frequency-library
im just using a 12v reg and stepping down to 10v with a 1.5k resistor and a 10k resistor because jaycar does not have the 10v regulators
and I am using a bc639 npn transistor.
everything works fine with it now and the controller holds the valve in the closed position and draws about 0.2A while holding it.

 

[stooge]

Tried a heap of different setting but with all very similar results. Seems to be the motor is running for slightly less time on the return(second press of the switch).
Second push of the switch to return.
After a few presses of the switch the alignment will be out so far that I believe it will strip the plastic gears. Doesn't make sense to me.

ahh I see you need to put it all back together, the mechanism has its own stops so it can only go so far each way and then the muffler also has the same thing.
you don't need that cog with the white mark on it to always be in the same position.

you will see when you put it together it will turn and hit a hard stop each way it turns.
800ms was heaps enough time for my ones to complete the change.

when you put it back together just align the metal thing like this which is the default open position

 

[Tripxit]

Ok, will put it together and give it a run. I was worried that if it hit the stop the motor would keep driving and strip the cog/gear.