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VZ timing chain, when to replace.

BEEVEE

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my check engine light came on today, code says chains, 240k I will be changing them myself I hope

Go ahead if you feel 100% confident, otherwise it could end in tears. Take NO shortcuts, and triple check EVERYTHING, and ensure absolute cleanliness and correct oil seal & gasket protocols. "White-out" witness/position marks on ALL moving parts to ensure correct Timing. All consumables must be Brand New; do not re-use any item that wears out in 100,000-200,000ks
 

gungazza

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yes all new parts $830,00 all up ,whatched heaps off how to vids, Im sure I can do it
 

gungazza

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eny body got the crankshaft tool en 46111 for sale or I could borrow, mace don't sell them or could I just use the bolt to turn over the engine
 

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

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If there is a noticable rattle, and that is what you've said, followed by a steadying and tappering off, it's probably best to have the timing chains done now. If you continue driving while they are stretched/worn, they could potentially skip, and it does not warrant thinking about what could happen.
Most VZ Alloytec engines have a thorough check-out of the timing chains after 190,000km. Replacement at a facility with qualified techs is about $2,500 to $3,000 and 2 days. The engine will the be put through tests in the workshop then road tested. I don't recommend it as a DIY task with the precision required of alignment and reassambly.

My (traded) VZ was not in need of any chains service, indicating that it was not one of the affected VZs in the original debacle of the correct chains being mixed with the wrong (pitch) chains. Many owners trade in their VZ around the 190,000 to 230,00km.
 

gungazza

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imm hopefully doing my chains more work pulling it down to get to them lol
 

keybored68

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Hey there.

I have a VZ V6 with about 210,000km on it. I only drive it once a week, and recently noticed when I start it from cold I get a god awful rattle for about 2 seconds. Every start after that first start is quiet, no rattle. No engine warning messages. I know its the chain, but how much life does it have yet.
See the car is very worn, the suspension is stuffed and just about every rubber is due for replacement, the result of living on a unsealed rural road on the Darling Downs. I intend to replace the front struts and the radius rod bushes ( for the 3rd time ) to make the car safe, but I'm hoping to get a little more life out of the engine before I let the car go to the big scrap heap in the sky.
So the rattle when cold, ok for a few thousand km, or should I order a chain kit now before something lets go. If I do replace the chain, I'll probably want to get an extra 100,000km out of the old girl.

Thanks
Glenn

I'm in the middle of chain replacment job now. Had the same rattle issue initially, but then a loud clicking noise caused me to stop driving it. Pulled timing chain covers off, heaps of the infamous sludge in engine, seemed to be no oil below the rocker covers. Chains were not stretched however chain guides were all worn out, a couple had broken away and chains were running on metal. This caused loss of tension in chain, and the clicking sound was the chain tightening and loosening as the cams momentarily provided resistance as they compressed the valve springs. Once I get it going again, think I'll raise the engine and remove the sump to make sure the oil pickup is not blocked up with sludge. Now wish I'd changed the oil pump when I had the timing chain cover off.
 

gungazza

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its more work to pull it apart. than to do the chains, imm doing mine all well . let us know how you go with the sump
 

Jhovel

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Get rid of the car! You're throwing money away!
I can guarantee it will end in tears. You'll do a great job - and then one by one all sorts of other things will fail. Then you will wreck it, sell it as parts or set fire to it.
I give you 4 weeks before you are sorry you started this.
Yes, I've been there recently. Furious about my trust in the "great Holden" design called alloy/sludge teck....
 
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