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For anyone interested, I finally got the 'box in and took it for a test drive. Runs just fine! The tail shaft was an unexpected problem, since I could not separate it at the spline, I ended up have to get a recon one. The most difficult parts for me was jacking the new box into position on the...

I have a pair of thick sheepskins on my VY. After a while they conform a bit to your body shape. Just make sure that if you have side airbags you get covers designed to split open during a deployment. Otherwise the airbag can deploy through your shoulder.

If anyone is interested, I did indeed eventually give up and took the drive shaft in to be rebuilt. The guy I spoke to said that these sometimes come apart with a sledge hammer, but sometimes lock firmly in place and refuse to budge. Looks like I had a difficult one.

Kinda obvious, and I am guessing you already did this and forgot to tell us, but have you done a compression check yet?

The oil light will flash when there is close to zero oil pressure. This will usually occur during heavy braking, or hard cornering, as the oil sloshes away from the pickup. If you see that happen, add oil really quickly, the engine will soon suffer serious damage.

A few more hints now gleaned from experience, for anyone else following. All concerning reattaching the transmission cooling pipes: 1. The pipes are held in place with a small wire clip. This sits in a groove around the nut, and holds the metal line in. There are 3 slots around the nut, the...

What would it have cost for that work if you could not do the repairs yourself and had to pay a mechanic?

Talking to a few other and based on my own experience, I would suggest that anyone replacing a transmission check the center bearing rubber first; there is a good change it will be stuffed. Organize a replacement in advance.

The 3800 Ecotec is indeed an engine that can be reliable for a long time, and the VY is a pretty well designed vehicle all around, with nothing much that is known to cause early or expensive failure. At the same time, you are looking at a vehicle that is 2 decades old, with considerable...

That tailshaft is a bit different to my VY Ecotec wagon.

Pretty sure I am hitting the tailshaft WAY harder than in that video. I have watched a couple of video, none seem as difficult as mine.

That looks to be for a different vehicle. This tailshaft has a universal joint, not a CV.

I am in the midst of replacing the transmission on my VY wagon. All going fairly well, apart from noticing a totally stuffed tailshaft center bearing rubber insulator. I have been attempting to pull the tailshaft apart so that I can replace the bearing and rubber. So far I have tried clamping...

Just an update, looks like removing the exhaust was indeed a simple task, my visions of trying to drill out snapped studs in the exhaust manifold were unfounded. Got the old 'box out reasonably easily. I noticed that the tail shaft center bearing rubber has completely flogged out and is not...

I am about to swap out the 4L60e on my 2003 Ecotec VY1 wagon. Taking a look, it seems that the exhaust is going to be a PITA, particularly when I need to get the new box into place. I don't have a hoist, so I will just be lifting the vehicle up on jack stands, and lifting it into position with a...

Another remote possibility is porous heads. This was a problem with Ecotecs, Holden's "cure" was an additive to mix in with the coolant. These are often sold as "water pump lubricant" or "coolant tablets". V8s don't use it, just Ecotecs. It is mentioned in the owners manual. They look like...

Incorrect. VY base models did not come standard with aircon. Very rare to see one without it in Australia, but they definitely exist, and use a shorter belt.

FWIW, the handbook that is probably in the glovebox has a diagram of the serpentine belt.

FWIW, my VY has a belt diagram (supercharged and normal) in the users manual. More than once I have referred to it.

I took a key apart to attempt that. On mine, not only were the stainless steel tabs spot welded to the cell, they were also spot welded to the copper substrate at the other end. I guess you might be able to use a Dremel to cut the tabs, then solder stainless steel to stainless steel, but would...

Why? Won't make the car any faster, it will just develop a horrible drone, and attract the attention of cops.

I had similar happen. Stereo cut out as well, and I also had "check alternator" come up. In my case, it was a shorted regulator, inside of the alternator. Luckily, I was close to home. Easy enough to diagnose, just throw a meter on the battery. Should be about 12V with the engine off, 14V...

The key supplied with my VY definitely had tabs spot welded at each end, no solder. I have been adept with a soldering iron since age 6, am qualified by NASA to solder electronics inside nukes, and spend over a decade making a living with electronics repair. I can definitely tell the...

Go to Jaycar you can buy the correct battery with the spot welds on it, sold it in bingo good for another 5-7 years. Dropping it's memory would only happen if you left it with no power for many hours. Desolder old battery(has some current left) resolder new... easy ... $60-100 a pop fluck me the...

Got spare key? Starting then cutting out right away is something a VY will do with defective electronics in the key. Not sure why.

My VY Ecotec has 340K on the clock. Since near new I have been doing oil changes at the recommended 15K. I use Castrol GTX 15W40. Every third oil change I do the following: 1. Go for a drive and warm the engine up. 2. Drop in a bottle of flush. 3. Go for a very sedate drive, for about 30...

The ZB uses a version of GMs "High feature" engine, pretty much the same as an alloytech. Cadillac have been running twin turbo version for a while now, the current ATS-V manages to wring 346 kilowatts out of one. That proves it can be done, not sure how difficult it would be to package one in a...

I know this is an old thread, but had exactly the same symptoms on my Ecotec VY last weekend. In my case, when I checked the battery voltage, I saw 12.5 with the engine off, 18.1 at 1500RPM. My guess was a faulty regulator. New one was $70, replacement was easy, maybe 20mins work, and it went...

That would work, except the stainless steel tags were spot welded to the copper substrate, not soldered. Would be tricky to drill out, since the thin copper trace is way weaker than the stainless steel trace below it. It might be possible to cut the tags near the middle and solder stainless...

As far as I know, there are no cars in existence that are TOTALLY metric. My VY has 15inch diameter rims, I have yet to see metric diameters. I am betting that a VE has a few imperial bolts hidden away somewhere.

Nope. Had this happen once to my VY Acclaim wagon. At the time fuel was low (around 80KM to empty), and I was just cruising down the freeway when it stopped without warning. I figured I might have run out of fuel, so I went for a walk and dropped in another 5L. No change. At this point I had it...

I have a VY Acclaim, factory Acclaim mags. Had a flat rear tire last year. No problem I though, I can deal with that. Took me something like an hour to get the wheel off the metal spindle, with the assistance of a star picket and various chunks of wood. Tire guy said that is normal, they corrode...

Yes. You are supposed to put a couple of odd, brown disk shaped thingies in the radiator when you replace the coolant. Supposed to lubricate the water pump. Non idea what the stuff is, it looks and dissolves like chunks of mud...

VY fuel pumps are known for this. If you turn the car on in a quite location, you should hear a faint whir. Best to do this before a problem, so you know when it is missing. Usually, bashing the fuel tank will get them going again.

I had that. Having a background in electronics, I figured it would be a simple replacement. Turns out to be WELDED in place. (not soldered). Why?

I have had my VY since near new, has 340 000 on the clock. Onto my third radiator now. Mode of failure was similar in both cases, the hot tank become brittle and cracked. Only difference was the second one leaked, and required refilling every few days, while the first failed more...

Pretty standard for most manufacturers now. Drain plugs have been eliminated, as it encouraged dodgy mechanics to do a transmission "service" without removing the pan, cleaning it out and replacing the filter. Also, probably saves about $2.

I am with Smitty. This might be a reasonable car, but it really is not a Commodore. Commodores are Australian made, rear wheel drive, with a big 6 or V8. People who want a 4cyl front wheel drive will look at Mazda 6s, Camrys ect. I predict this will be a failure in the marketplace.

Yep, could well be the rubber mounting around the old diff. These tend to fail on VYs after about a decade, so if it is original, would be foolish to reuse it. I would also change the centre bearing and mounts, these are probably on their way out as well. Lots easier to do that while you already...

Could be a faulty key, or the circular contact plate. The key has to be correctly coded, and connected for the engine to run. It will, however, crank and fire for a second or so with a broken key.