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Cheers, so I can choose series 1 sv6 trims + vents and they'll mount directly onto a series 2 omega?

Hey mate so from what I've gathered you seem to suggest the best option for a series II is to retrofit a series I fascia, will this do? (aeropro fascia kit) And then just choose any 7" headunit and buy harnesses to plug into a VE?

Is it cooked? I'm getting a heavy clunk while driving and from what I can see with the movement in the rack it'd possibly be hitting the radius arm. Every component in the suspension is new and still tight. This vid shows the movement This vid is the noise inside while driving

Finally got around to having a look, firstly unplugged each front sensor into the hub/sensor I replaced them with and light still came on while cycling ignition so ruling the front 2 out, both rear plugs at the sensor appeared fine but didn't realise there was a 4-pin connecting them further...

Launch U600, it can read 17 things but doesn't seem to have ABS or wheel speed sensor data I have and it appears intact, if it was a completely failed sensor would the ABS light constantly be on? As for some reason the car has decided to not come up with an ABS fault on every start again...

Had a search on the forum already but figured I'd ask again, I've replaced the rear sensors and it didn't fix the issue, scanned the ABS and no codes came up (might be the scanner I guess). I did recently change the front hubs but they're plugged in and appear fine.. Would it be possible to...

Common problem in direct injections engines is carbon buildup on valves causing them to seal incorrectly which causes misfires. Try a can of seafoam upper engine cleaner, it's the spray with a big red nozzle

Front sensors are built into the hubs, rear are easily removed with an imperial socket (whatever is between 6mm - 7mm I believe)

TL;DR: If theres a sticker like substance on the brake pad shims scrape it off on concrete then lube em up and put em back on, also make sure the caliper shims are sorta big enough to hold onto the caliper tightly Changed brakes, shims and rotors mid 2019 and had a clunk coming from the front...

Had a look at the price of the chrome caps and I'll be spending almost ad much as I paid for the wheels o_O I'll try the spray can first Also I assume its fine but would it be fine when chaning wheel nuts to change 1 at a time while the car is on the ground? So break the tourqe off, change...

I bought em for the slight anti-theft aspect (being spline nuts) and also to suit the shine of the new wheels, and also went with spline because for some reason the only lock nuts I could find were 40mm closed ended and figured the splines would match + listing said they suit a VE but didn't...

Interesting.. will be returning them asap

yeah they screw on and don't fit through the stud hole in the wheel at all Fair enough, what sort of dangers are possible? Is it possible for the nuts to sorta pull through the taper in the stud hole? Took pictures of em on the wheels, definitely not as much contact as OEM but they do hold...

There isn't as much flare as oem but they still have enough to hold the wheels in place, just figured I'd double check and see if anyone else has used em? Cheers

I too have a clunk, so far I've changed: Sway bar bushes Sway bar end links Struts Springs Strut top mounts Bump stops Lower control arms Also spent hours having a look at brakes as I hear it when braking aswell as going over bumps I did find that 2 screws holding the AC + Coolant lines(?) on...

Whole arms, ball joins are tight and bushes look alright so I'll see what the 5 year warranty gets me and go from there

What brand? I replaced my strut tops with cheap ebay ones and had creaking, replaced them with KYB a week later and the creaking disappeared. If I did have to buy new ones I'd probably go with superpro polyelast (pretty sure they're not as stiff as the polyurethane ones) but still no complaints...

First thing I replaced probably over a year ago now, last thing left to change are rack ends and tie rods.. hoping for some success

Ended up changing them this weekend and the bushings were dry and starting to crack and the balls joins were very easy to move around, seemed as the only thing holding them in place was the boot. Steering feels much tighter and wheel isn't vibrating at 100km/h anymore which is a plus.. but still...

Had a clunk coming from the front end for over a year now, at first it was hard to replicate and thought it was the brakes as I could feel the clunk when my foot was on the brake pedal but now it happens rather often going over uneven road or speedbumps and also when going from forward to...

Didn't get it in the video but it may speed up as RPM is increased

By back plate do you mean the dust shield or? Rotors are: DBA En-Shield Brake Rotor Pair Rear DBA2027E DBA En-Shield Brake Rotor Pair Front DBA2026E I think there may be a bit of movement in the holes for the studs and the studs themselves but not too sure as its been a while since I've...

May be hard to see as videos flipped to the side (easier in full screen). Do they need replacing or a tightening? Cheers

Yeah this one here, I've previously tried taking the same one off the brake booster vacuum pump and the tabs broke but the fitting stayed put :rolleyes: EDIT: I found this searching "ve commodore purge valve" through an image search.. didn't come up searching through the forums though...

Do you need a specific tool?

By front end do you mean the section which holds the bumper, lights and radiator?

Just a general question, but what are common problems for either car at that amount of KM or how long do these engines generally last?

Took out the MAF and sprayed with MAF cleaner, let dry and put back in, turned it on and It just now set off code p0113... the engine RPMs are now staying around ~550 and the g/s is staying around 3 g/s, does this now point to a MAF problem?

I just went for a drive and noticed RPM was fluctuating at idle so connected scanner and took a vid: Is it normal for RPM to fluctuate with g/s at idle? Not specifically for the MAF but the cars been running like chit for a few months now with -25% LTFT so I'm just running through anything...

Yeah thats why I figured I'd ask here as every car seems to be different, cheers. Do you know of an actual way to see if its working properly? I pulled the plug while the car was running, started idling slightly worse but when I plugged it back in I heard a fan start and it was making alot of...

Trying to test my MAF and I've seen if its good the engine will stall, although I pulled mine and it kept running. Is this normal for a VE? TIA

I've taken the valve covers off before which is simple enough so I can get access to the rockers and everything but is it a major PITA to change the seals after that step? In general it looks simple enough to: Remove the spark plugs Feed some rope into the spark plug tube Get the piston TDC...

After searching for the source of this clunk for over a year I think I've found it.... Was pushing the car in neutral and it rolled back towards me off a small bump so the driveshaft went from reverse - forward and heard the noise, Is it normal for it to do this? I've grabbed it before to try...

Might be some help, cheers

Yeah so it does need to expel air to create a vacuum and the air it pulls is from the hose that connects it to the booster and crankcase, so the little tube that the smoke was coming out of is where it expels air so smoke coming out was it working as its supposed to and because its constantly...

For future reference if anyone has the same question: Connected a probe from the jump posts and into the plug (red wire positive, white wire negative), removed vacuum hose from brake booster as I couldn't get the plug off the pump and confirmed vacuum from brake booster hose and air blowing out...

Will give it a shot. From what I've seen there is an O ring in there keeping a seal, is that correct? There is not a thing duct tape can't fix

Yeah it fully spins around and now that those little things are broken it slides a bit but still so sings of coming off

Yep that was me trying to lever out both sides with 2 small flathead screwdrivers and it still wouldn't budge

Is that the reasoning for letting the car idle to build up pressure then turn off the car and pump the brake 3 times to test if its working? Also, anyone have any idea how to remove the vacuum line clip off the pump? Gonna connect some probes to the jump post and then into the plug to test it...