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I'm looking at putting a VCM5SC cam in my VE SS with the L77. Has anyone used this cam (or similar, specs are 224/236, .58/.59, 114.5 LSA) with milled heads? I was thinking about taking .02-.025 off if the price is reasonable. Also, thoughts on this cam in a manual weekender? Thanks.

I have a VT Berlina that I've swapped the rear amp and subs from a VT Calais into. The amp has two inputs and two outputs, but when I move the balance completely to the right of the car with the headunit, the left sub still plays. Are the two inputs being combined in the amp or is there...

I want to drop the rear end of my series 2 VT to something around SL height, or whatever the next step down from FE2 is. Should I go with a four point camber/toe kit, or get a VY subframe and put a two point kit in that? I asked a guy from Pedders which one would be better, and he thinks that...

Did this a couple weeks ago but forgot to post. An angle grinder and running water, took less than a minute.

Ah interesting. Thanks. Not sure why Mace didn't mention it. Do you mean the bearing preload measurments or is there something else as well?

More fun during my diff rebuild. I got the bearing and seal kit from Mace and while most was fine, the pinion nut was deformed. Looked like it had been squished in a vice or something, and couldn't be threaded all the way. I got in contact, sent a few photos showing that one side was 1mm...

It's the original 21 year old rubber so it's about 1mm thick.

What is the rubber bush/spacer under the rear spring called? Does it do anything? Mine is pretty dead. Figure I might as well do something about it while I’ve got most of the rear end out. Nolathane/Super Pro etc. all have spring spacers that add ride height, or the top bump stop bush. Can’t...

Thanks, makes sense. Guess I better get some cutting discs.

I've just bought a 3.7:1 Motive Gear set to put in my VT Series 2 with M80 diff. However the new pinion has an extra length after the shaft which I imagine would hit the tailshaft flange. I've checked the old gear ratio and the numbers stamped on each gear and it's definitely an M80. Bearing...

Thanks lads.

Is there much of a difference between the V6 and V8 4L60E torque converters? Just wondering as high stalls for the V8 seem to be significantly cheaper. Thanks.

I’ve had a look and I’ve found 2 with conical tips, one with the spring covered and one without. There’s also one with a much flatter tip. All of them say that they’re suitable for the L67 so not sure what’s going on there. I know that my current one has the shiny conical tip with the spring...

Is it true that the L67 and Ecotec have different IAC Valves? If so, how can you tell/what are the part numbers? It wouldn't surprise me if the previous owner replaced it with the wrong (ie cheaper) one in the past, as he did with many parts.

Timing chain is a possibility. It’ll have to be done one day but the issue isn’t bad enough to really justify the effort right now.

I got the IAC to sit at 25 while idling, but no improvement. Is it normal for the IAC to make a loud hissing sound at a certain position? It used to do so with a tiny bit of throttle but now it happens during normal cruising. Pretty annoying.

I had a look at the IAC steps, it was 14 with the fans on, and about 7 with nothing on. Which direction should I adjust the throttle? Does a low IAC value mean open or closed? Thanks.

Well I gapped the plugs to 1.3mm, gave it a couple days but unfortunately it made no change.

Injectors were replaced with the correct OEM ones. I switched to the 1.1mm plugs due to a recommendation in another thread, I’ll try setting them to 1.3mm and see what happens.

Kind of forgot to reply here but new fuel injectors fixed my hesitation while cold. I still have the occasional stutter though, and I''ve made a new post about it here: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/random-stutter-misfire-at-idle-particularly-when-changing-to-neutral-park.286353/

Hi everyone. I've tried searching but no one else seems to have quite the same issue as me. Car is a 1999 VT Berlina, series 2, auto, L67. 290000km on it. Current mods are 10psi pulley, 1.95:1 roller rockers, W2A intercooler, Mace CAI, Mace memcal, ported supercharger and 82° thermostat. ---...

If you mean it’s been physically mannualised it should still work ok. Can’t say for sure though.

Just trying to work out if my diff is on its way out or if the clunking I’ve been getting is something else. Here’s a video of me rotating the tail shaft by hand with car on ramps, in neutral. https://streamable.com/8zp0bl Does this seem a bit much? Both shafts rotated the same amount ie not...

Ok. Just wondering as I recently replaced lifters, pushrods, rockers and springs and can't see much happening in there. Just want to make sure I didn't mess up somewhere.

I think I may have some oiling issues with the top end of my L67 but I'm not completely sure. Would someone please be able to describe/video how much oil is present on the rocker arms/springs once warmed up and running? Is there any splashing around? Thanks.

I have an old DFI lying around that I could try. Krusing replaced his with a new one without any improvement though. The plug and wiring directly at the DFI is fine, can’t speak for the rest of it. I would assume a wiring issue would be there all the time though, not just when cold.

Still original DFI, I’ll see how the injectors go first but as I said, Timing light showed pretty good spark.

Lately I’ve done inlet manifold + supercharger gaskets, 1.95:1 ratio rockers, new valve stem seals and springs, new lifters, replaced some old vacuum lines with new tubing and new leads + coils + plugs. Tested everything spark related with timing light, no issue there. Still stutters when...

Might be good to directly ask Raptor as they would have dealt with this situation a few times. 10psi would probably require a new memcal at least, probably not a full custom tune. pcmhacking.net will have more info regarding that side of things.

I've seen a couple photos of this before but not much else, I just did it today so thought I would quickly describe it for anyone interested. Essentially, you modify the radiator cover from a VT-VY LS1 to fit the V6 model when using a Mace cold air intake. If done well, it provides a much...

Ok good to know. I did look up the number and it lead to some ACDelco injectors, and also seems to be the generic GM part number for them.

I'm looking at getting one of those 'injector service kits' with the o-rings and filters for my VT L67. I thought I would check my injectors first to ensure that they are the original Bosch ones (part number 0280155868). However, I found that the number on the side of my injectors is 24508208...

Has anyone tried the 6.35mm manifold spacer for the L67? I'm struggling to see how it would make a noticable difference but I could be wrong. Secondly, is it cut to match the supercharger outlet or is it large enough to allow some blower porting? Thanks for any help.

Hello. I’ve noticed that the L67 valve spring retainers, and some other items, are currently unavailable. Is there any idea as to how long this will be for? Thanks.

55? 90? I’m lost.

Assuming both are brand new, what would perform better with high ratio roller rockers: 90lb stock springs or 105lb upgraded springs? I’ve seen mixed opinions from people, some claiming that stock springs will float at high RPM, some saying this is only true for old springs, and others saying...

Hello. I’m looking for an overhead valve spring remover so I can change my springs without removing the heads on my L67. Does anyone have any recommendations or do all the generic tools work fine? Thanks.

New battery is in but stutter is not gone. Screen flicker while stuttering is gone though. Next step will be to do some more detailed logging for any indication as to what it could be.

I may have found a possible cause for this issue. I’m not sure how I’ve never noticed it before, but the lcd screens for the trip computer dim a little while stuttering. As such I’m thinking it could be my quite old battery. This might also explain why the stutter is worse when it’s cold...