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One of my doors won't work when I use the key in the driver's door to deadlock the car. I've pulled the doortrim off & the motor is trying to work. I can use the door button to lock it, though. Does the mechanism just need some lubrication to free it up? ie is there just a bit of gunk...

Unfortunately, budget constraints rule out anything like air shocks. I just had a thought. Is there any reason why the rear springs & shocks out of my VN sedan wouldn't fit? It certainly was nowhere near as soft.

As its the springs that determine how much the car sags, sounds like a goer.:thumbsup: Thanks for the help.:dance:

I was thinking more just the rear shocks & springs. Surely the wagon stuff got to be heavier duty than the sedan

Does the wagon have a coil or leaf sprung rear end? I want to know if I can fit the wagon stuff into the back end of my sedan to stop it's butt dropping on the ground when the car trailer & excel are hitched up.

I have the key to lock in the door jam, so I can manually immobilise the car. Did the factory remote just lock the doors, or deadlock them? And then is there a way to get an aftermarket remote to work it? I spoke to Holden who can sell me a remote, and then they can somehow find out the...

At least I won't be disappointed then if I can't find it. I didn't get the factory immobiliser with the car. Is there a way to program another generic unit to work with it? And what did the original remote do? Just immobilise, or immobilise & lock the car.

Excellent. Thanks for your help.:thumbsup: I'll have a look when I can turn on the big light in the sky again.

The car I'm talking about here is a mate's. The throttle body & IAC were removed. We weren't game to just spray it through after what happened to my VN.

Ok thanks. Now for the next noobs q. :whistling Where is it & what does it look like?

Gave the IAC & throttle body a good clean out. No fault codes:bang:

Unfortunately, this is one of those intermittent problems:bang: Sometimes, the car won't increase the idle when the A/C is on, & sometimes it will idle high after I turn the A/C off. Any ideas on where to start looking for a fix? I'm guessing the ECU isn't getting a correct A/C signal.

I'm a bit confused about this. Do you mean there's a separate horn from the normal car one, or are you talking about using the standard car horn for the "siren"?

Have you found it yet? If not, when you open the front passenger door, it's near the hinges.

not yet. I've been trying to finish it, but when your tow car blows it's engine, and your buy another for the motor & find it's in better condition, but needs a blue slip, and then all the blue slip people in your area arent' doing any because the RTA's been around doing audits. Besides...

oops:whistling Nothing to see here, move along I was thinking of the front fog light globe I just replaced in another of my cars. At least that's solved why there was originally a 10A fuse. 5 x 21 = 105W = 8.75A I feel better now (at least about upping the fuse rating);)

oh yeah, I can replace 2 of the lights on the trailer with LEDs, which is planned as I don't trust filament globes with towing a rally car on dirt, but the other 2 lights on the trailer are actually on the towed car. Because the trailer is small, the towed car, an Excel, hangs over the rear of...

The sticker on for the fuse box says it should be a 10A:confused: Power (Watts) = Volts x Amps. Is this correct (it's good have some tech guys around occasionally)? So 9 x 35W = 315W!! Amps = 315 / 12 = 26A!! or 2.8A each. Now I've got myself real confused..

Not fussed where they come from, just don't want the type that are going to fade again, which I suspect means genuine.

Is there a way to tell the quality? I've seen a lot of faded lights, and I really can't afford any attention in regards to defects, etc. Suggestions about where to get replacements (I've looked through the wreckers threads)?

I recently installed a towbar & trailer wiring to my VP exec sedan. The wiring was a factory Holden(?) harness bought from a wrecker & was previously installed into my VN Exec sedan. The loom is a plugin between the connection on the rgiht hand side taillights. When I plugged in my car...

The motor was installed about 6 months ago as part of engine/box package (the previous box wouldn't change gear automatically) & the harmonic balancer was checked before the engine was installed as that is a known problem.

They should be removable as most clutch places will remove them in order to "face" the wheel. Maybe approach a clutch specialist to find replacements?

Bought my replacement gear from Able. Very quick response:thumbsup: Not worth the hassle of chasing ebay IMHO.

if you have any luck diagnosing this, I'd appreciate some feedback, too. My VP makes a constant knocking type of noise & after recently having a VN motor "drop" its bottom end, I really can't afford to have another one go. It kind of sounds like insufficient oil getting to the heads, but...

I'm new to the commodores. Everything else I've owned until now has had OHC. I've developed a bottom end knock which also renders the car hard to start after getting hot. I've decided to park it for the time being (it's jsut run out of rego) & concentrate on getting my VP registered instead...

I've got a similar question about the Exec taillights on the VP. With the boot panel being red plastic light the lights, unlike the grey panel on the VN, were there different lights available? Mine are both aftermarket faded clear ones & I would like to replace them with proper legal lights.

Got a VN motor that just done something to its bottom end but still runs, just. I'm coming upto Brissie on the weekend of the 9-10 May, so I may be able to cart it up. What are you offering?