2004 VY S Manual Sedan!

[Gaiter]

Sweet. Yea no doubts in his work, sounds like a full on job. Glad we have someone like him around to do it. Emailed him this afternoon, keen for mine to be done.

The green is so ugly.

 

[DevilDRake]

Sweet. Yea no doubts in his work, sounds like a full on job. Glad we have someone like him around to do it. Emailed him this afternoon, keen for mine to be done.

The green is so ugly.

The job isn't too bad, i had to take all of the switches out. Since you're near him he does all that for you luckily, but I'm in VIC.

 

[vy1tonnerbloke]

In regard to the fuel usage. I wouldn't trust what the dash readout says. With the bigger injectors it will use more fuel, and it won't give you the correct usage rate on the display. Regarding the paint on the plenum, I think it was VHT heatproof stuff, but can't be sure.

 

[Dirbatua]

I put it all back together expecting something to go wrong, and suprisingly there was pretty much nothing. It all went smoothly (besides the fuel guage not reading any existing fuel)

Injectors were a bit of a prick to change leaking fuel everywhere (as I forgot to prime it before hand but car was unstartable at that stage) and one of the bloody O-rings got stuck in the holder so had fun getting that out. Ended up using a spring puller, had a great angle to pull it out.

Edit: Have updated the first page, also looking to get these ordered before the charger arrives (but boost/volts) - Only issue is that my stereo wiring is fkd. Would love to use the remote wire from behind the stereo to turn them on, and wire as per normal but I wouldn't know what is what without pulling all the **** apart. When I rewire, I'm wondering if I should just buy a bunch of speaker wire and just resolder them all but issue would be that they're all different colours.

Fuel gauges can always go a bit spastic once you've disconnected the battery and even more so if you've messed with the cluster, it should just fix itself hopefully.

I assume you meant you forgot to remove the relay and clear the fuel system before changing the injectors, should've called i got little hooks for pulling o-rings out and you do literally live 3 minutes away.

Forget Volts, you don't need it, what you want is oil pressure and boost gauge if your only going to run 2 gauges.

Buy the new headunit and i can do the re-wire this weekend coming, i got rolls of coloured wire here to extend and fix all the hack job connections the last owner did and fix it properly.

Gauges wire to ignition power and the lighting circuit and earth, you don't want them wired off the headunit remote wire for ignition power, i can find proper wiring to splice into to wire them in once you got them.

I'm not too sure on the black look - out of curiousity what paint did you use?

MOAR UPDATES:

Bought some door cards really cheap (as buying speaker covers by themselves cost a fortune)

Changed my door cards over and barely any more cracks (still one passenger door I need to change, both were stuffed)

Can i have those red trims if you ain't going to use them, i need them to make something.

In regard to the fuel usage. I wouldn't trust what the dash readout says. With the bigger injectors it will use more fuel, and it won't give you the correct usage rate on the display. Regarding the paint on the plenum, I think it was VHT heatproof stuff, but can't be sure.

Dash readouts fine long as the ECU is tuned and configured properly for the new injectors, the car knows how much fuel its pumping into the engine.

 

[DevilDRake]

In regard to the fuel usage. I wouldn't trust what the dash readout says. With the bigger injectors it will use more fuel, and it won't give you the correct usage rate on the display. Regarding the paint on the plenum, I think it was VHT heatproof stuff, but can't be sure.

Wasn't sure about the readout - I will do one tank when I get my cluster back and calculate the klms against the pump. Going off the fuel guage though I'd say it was pretty spot on.

Fuel gauges can always go a bit spastic once you've disconnected the battery and even more so if you've messed with the cluster, it should just fix itself hopefully.

I assume you meant you forgot to remove the relay and clear the fuel system before changing the injectors, should've called i got little hooks for pulling o-rings out and you do literally live 3 minutes away.

Forget Volts, you don't need it, what you want is oil pressure and boost gauge if your only going to run 2 gauges.

Buy the new headunit and i can do the re-wire this weekend coming, i got rolls of coloured wire here to extend and fix all the hack job connections the last owner did and fix it properly.

Gauges wire to ignition power and the lighting circuit and earth, you don't want them wired off the headunit remote wire for ignition power, i can find proper wiring to splice into to wire them in once you got them.

Can i have those red trims if you ain't going to use them, i need them to make something.

Yeah fuel guage fixed itself in the end.

Luckily only one O-ring got stuck, and besides gotta learn how to do some of the **** myself. Wasn't that bad to do, just forgot to de-pressurise the system and I didn't have an ECU to do it lol.

I was going to do an Oil guage but it's a simple standard ecotec engine, if it blew you get another for $100-$500 lol. Main reason I want volts is for when I get another sound system going I want a voltage guage so i'll stick with that for the time being.

I may order the gauges this week, but going to hold off on the head unit for the time being.
If you really want to re-wire it, for the time being you can just wire it into an ISO plug, then i can just buy the connector to go into whatever head unit i end up gettting. I'll get an Aeropro ISO > JVC harness for the time being until I get a new one.

As for the red trims, i have the door trims up for sale currently. If they don't sell you can have them

 

[DevilDRake]

Well I changed my mind, I ordered my Volts and Boost guage today, and also this:

3 x 4V Pre-out as last time, so can upgrade the stereo easily.

EDIT: Also going to organise my subwoofer wiring - I already have a 15" Subwoofer in customer box + amplifier sitting in my shed, will just have to turn them down until I get my speakers done as this 15" hit haaaard. American bass XFL1522 - Underrated 1000WRMS into stable 1ohm. Heavy as hell too, would be 40KG by itself.






Just ordered a 2000W stinger wiring kit also

 

[DevilDRake]

Little update - My guages should arrive later today and I have got my headunit already. My link pins will be fitted tomorrow night and my cluster should be back in tonight!

Raptor have had a delay with their fabricator, looks like piping wont be done until mid next week, then need to fix the kit and get it to me. Tim relays a 2 week lead time from yesterday.. Hopefully this is right i'm starting to get anxious haha!

 

[DevilDRake]

Guages arrived! They sent the black SAAS pod instead of dark grey so going to exchange that tomorrow..

They look pretty nice in person! Keen to get them in.



and pictures of the headunit pre-install:





Got my longer USB Cable for my head unit too, didn't want to run a USB off the front of the touchscreen, going run a cable into the little compartment below the headunit and plug the USB into it - Just opened up my headunit and noticed it already came with a usb extension.. lol ah well.

On another note - my turning is getting stuck going right again - tomorrow night I change the sway bar link pins and HOPEFULLY it doesn't get caught anymore as it's very dangerous. Turning right into a round about and i can't turn anymore unless i force it past and it clicks from the sway bar going over the caster rod (pretty sure it's that you can see rub marks on both of them)

Hopefully my wiring kit turns up too and i'll hook up my subwoofer this weekend after this headunit wiring is all fixed.

 

[Trayner]

Nice man I just bought the
Kenwood DDX5015BT for $315 from supercheap

 

[Gaiter]

Yea good luck with that steering issue, does sound serious.