2016 SSV Redline

[07GTS]

Have you seen the guys who do the stock run at 3/4 throttle for a low reading then full throttle after the bolt on's and tune!

yea some dodgie operators out there, i have also noticed the very first run will more then likely be lower as preceding runs with no change at all 2nd will be higher then 3rd should be within 1-2 hp as it levels out, then there is the strap downs where a lower hp car dosnt need much or it will affect the reading but the higher hp u got to strap em hard or u just get spin, with mine now ill get it done on the same dyno i have always used then if its a good number ill see if i can get it on a hub dyno just to see the difference, and if i can get to a quarter it will see that in full street trim

 

[Ginger Beer]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.mo...of-dyno-correction-real-wheel-horsepower/amp/

 

[07GTS]

guy i use for the dyno best thing he ever got back in the day was the weather station for it so it updates every sec or so, before it as u tune thru the day he noticed some changes were showing less or more when they shouldnt have and it was found to be the change in the temps across a days work, the weather station helps keep it linier so u can see proper gains/losses instead of chasing ur tail

 

[RevNev]

then there is the strap downs where a lower hp car dosnt need much or it will affect the reading but the higher hp u got to strap em hard or u just get spin, with mine now ill get it done on the same dyno i have always used

The lower powered cars make the most when they clear the rear roller and if they don't wheel spin, there's no need to tie them down and just restrain them enough to ride up on the front roller. HQ race cars that make around 100kw on the front roller if you tie them down tight, they can lose 8 to 10kw's. Using the same dyno and operator is the best way to determine modification gains or losses.

 

[shane_3800]

There's no measurement standard for dynos like there is for a tape measure or weight scales, they can read whatever the dyno manufacturer likes. Dyno Dynamics fixed the correction factor issue in 2000 with Shootout Mode where correction factors can't be altered other than placing the ambient air temp sensor in the engine bay for a higher reading that'll show on the dyno sheet, ambient air temp 120 degrees on a 25 degree day.

Hub dynos read significantly higher for example a particular car reading 236kw on a hub dyno and 194kw on a roller dyno. The most difficult cars to get consistent readings on a roller dyno due to wheel spin, are automatics exceeding 350kw with high stall converters and low diff ratios.

I was reading an article form a dyno operator, he explained that correction factors are needed.
But the correction factors have to applied correctly, this is so a guy in the mountains gets the same reading as a guy at sea level.
There is also different correction methodologies, but it should be listed on the dyno sheet.

 

[RevNev]

I was reading an article form a dyno operator, he explained that correction factors are needed.
But the correction factors have to applied correctly, this is so a guy in the mountains gets the same reading as a guy at sea level.
There is also different correction methodologies, but it should be listed on the dyno sheet.

Barometric pressure correction doesn't make much difference on Dyno Dynamics software and the greatest influence on dyno readings is ambient temperature. Low barometric pressure makes an engine run rich and that'll show a lower dyno reading with carby engines or EFI engines that have ineffective barometric pressure correction calibrations at different geographical locations.

If you tune an engine in SA at an average atmospheric pressure of 101kpa for example and take the car to Bathurst where the average is around 93kpa, the engine will run rich and effectively suffer a power loss. Phillip Island has a barometric pressure shift through a lap with an engine typically running leaner down the front straight. It's the worst circuit in Australia for blowing engines on the lean side from the barometric pressure shift.

 

[shane_3800]

Barometric pressure correction doesn't make much difference on Dyno Dynamics software and the greatest influence on dyno readings is ambient temperature. Low barometric pressure makes an engine run rich and that'll show a lower dyno reading with carby engines or EFI engines that have ineffective barometric pressure correction calibrations at different geographical locations.

If you tune an engine in SA at an average atmospheric pressure of 101kpa for example and take the car to Bathurst where the average is around 93kpa, the engine will run rich and effectively suffer a power loss. Phillip Island has a barometric pressure shift through a lap with an engine typically running leaner down the front straight. It's the worst circuit in Australia for blowing engines on the lean side from the barometric pressure shift.

Yea but it's not just barometric pressure.
It's also absloute water volume in the air which is not relative humidity.
As water volume changes the power will change, as with air fuel and compression.
It's not ad simple as you make out, and no I don't know either, but when multiple engineers have to explain something in a team it's complex.

Superflow is the leader in dynos and they have adjustablity for correction factors, which are not spot on but better than fixed numbers.

By the way I would buy a Mainline over a DD any day.

 

[RevNev]

no I don't know either

Exactly, so what's your point posting something you've read?

By the way I would buy a Mainline over a DD any day.

Mainline didn't produce chassis dynos when buying the first dyno in 1996 and that lasted 16 years. In 2012, we got a good deal from Dyno Dynamics on a new one. We need a Mainline for what reason?