Kyle_au
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2023
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 1
- Age
- 33
- Location
- Adelaide
- Members Ride
- VS commodore Ute
So the way I was able to do the crank bolt was with an air gun. I asked my mechanic about how to stop the engine from turning when doing it the way you are, and he said to access the flywheel and use something to jam that to stop it from turning.After I got back from the fire today, I had a few hours, so as we all know, jobs don't get done by sitting around - so to the shed..
Replaced the Throttle position sensor - no change
Replaced the Idle air control - no change
replaced the cam angle sensor - no change
Pulled the crank bolt out to change the crank angle sensor, only to realize that I don't have a tool to pull the pulley.
So put the bolt back on, only to be unable to tighten it up properly.
I don't have a torque wrench that goes to the 325nm required (mine only goes to 150nm)
Even if I did, I can't hold the pulley tight enough to stop it turning.
I've tried to use a ratchet strap down to the k-frame - no luck
i pushed my car under my hoist arm, and tried both a strap and my serpentine belt wrapped around the pulley twice with enough tension that I was lifting the car up. - it still turns when tightening.
I'm on call for the fires tonight, and on shift for tomorrows graveyard shift.
Hopefully its tight enough, but if it spins off, that will give me the answer I spose.
It throws the balancer and snaps the crank - new engine at that point, or maybe the car to the wrecker.
How on earth do you hold that balancer tight enough to put enough force to tighten that bolt?
I'm going to Perth tomorrow so I can pick up the balancer removal tool and anything else special I need.
Was doing some reading last night - my lifters are sticky/noisy , particularly when cold. Normally it clears up once warm.
Is this something that could cause my issue? Would a playing up lifter cause this? ie not opening or closing the valve properly?
Would this throw an error to the computer?
Is there any value in one of those lift treatments in a bottle? (I've always been very skeptical of 'mechanic-in-a-bottle' products.
thanks
You may not have to do all this, I managed to solve my issue today by replacing the DFI module (I’ve attached a photo circled in red). It’s the plate the coils attach to.
New coils don’t mean anything if the module is bad, my car now runs like new! I really hope this helps you, you can grab a kit off eBay for around $260, as I didn’t want to wait I purchased the kit locally for $350