300rwkw n/a ls1 with cam only + bolt ons + auto... possible & streetable?

[sly_gen3]

haha well i have actually been in a charged and cammed vx ss ls1. That was an experiance, around 375rwkw. Frying 20's in top gear is no hassle haha

 

[GenReaper]

Be very carefull with NOS.
You need the right selection of cam to use it properly.
Also very good valve springs and if your valve guides are worn i would suggest fitting new ones and get the valve seats recut.
Cause if you put NOS on an engine with a bad set of heads and the wrong cam you can just about be sure your intake manifold is going to end up going thru your bonnet.
Valve float and NOS = serious damage, just be carefull and do your homework.

 

[sly_gen3]

thanks 4 the heads up GenReaper

 

[acarmody]

haha well i have actually been in a charged and cammed vx ss ls1. That was an experiance, around 375rwkw. Frying 20's in top gear is no hassle haha

Oh to have a go at that car. The most powerful car I've ever been in is mine, 145rwkw V6 FTW!!! LOL

Though I do have a customer at work who offered to let me have a quick go at his $350,000 Maserati. Needless to say I turned it down, 1. I couldn't afford the excess, 2. I would be tempted to floor it, 3. My car would never feel the same again.

 

[sly_gen3]

haha the maserati could inspire you. We could have the worlds first masadore or commarati on our hands. A maserati engine in a commodore haha now thats a combo and a half.

 

[cpbait]

Thanks for all the advice guys. To LOWFLYER thats a big difference between the auto and manual i would of thought 20-30kws max thanks for clearing that up. In regards too running a big cam do you need to also upgade fuel system at the same time? I have also thought about a nitrous system which i will probably look into after i get cammed or whatever route i decide too take.

the reason there is such a big difference is probably what i was told that dyno's and auto's with stally's apparently don't get along too well, a guy at work's mates gen3 is an auto with a stally and he put a big n/a cam in with head work, manifold, exhaust,etc apparently it made 290 rwkw at 4,000-4,500 rpm on a dyno and they couldn't get any more as it would keep spinning it up on the dyno, tunner told him its cause the stally, i think he has a 3,000rpm stally.

where as at the track the car reacts and pulls times the same/similar as cars with a lot more rwkw's in manuals.

 

[wikky]

the reason there is such a big difference is probably what i was told that dyno's and auto's with stally's apparently don't get along too well, a guy at work's mates gen3 is an auto with a stally and he put a big n/a cam in with head work, manifold, exhaust,etc apparently it made 290 rwkw at 4,000-4,500 rpm on a dyno and they couldn't get any more as it would keep spinning it up on the dyno, tunner told him its cause the stally, i think he has a 3,000rpm stally.

where as at the track the car reacts and pulls times the same/similar as cars with a lot more rwkw's in manuals.

Yep, very true. The stally robs quite a few ponies on the dyno (maybe 10-15rwkw in certain applications I've seen). Once out on the street or strip though, it comes into its own.

To the OP, 300rwkw with all the usual bolt-ons and a bit of head work is easily achievable and can still be very streetable. It comes down to cam choice and how it's tuned.

 

[feistl]

Im very suprised how much power you guys are getting... Im running a stroked LS1 (383/6.3L) with heads, very large came, all the usual bolt ons and a decent tune, and its "only" making 276rwkw. (Although it was on a mainline dyno, made 715nm (650+nm from 2500rpm to about 5500rpm) and actually made top power on the rev limiter at 6000rpm).

Evem still, dynos are a tuning tool, nothing more. I have video footage of my VX running down a VE which was making 320rwkw on the front straight at sandown. Its also about reliability and drive-ability.