3rd Radiator in 6-8 months! no warning, just pops HELP!

[VR38]

I would not call him a trusted mechanic if his saying to not run a thermostat how do you think the water cools down once its hot if its not staying in the radiator for long ????

In every case I suggest running a thermostat, if you need to rip a correctly functioning thermostat out to run cooler then you got bigger problems than a thermostat that need attention but, I would like to clarify this;
The cooling system is a closed system, the longer it stays in the radiator cooling the longer it stays in the engine HEATING. Think about it.

 

[Clutchy]

In every case I suggest running a thermostat, if you need to rip a correctly functioning thermostat out to run cooler then you got bigger problems than a thermostat that need attention but, I would like to clarify this;
The cooling system is a closed system, the longer it stays in the radiator cooling the longer it stays in the engine HEATING. Think about it.

That's why the thermostat is set to a degree once it gets to that it opens and lets the cool water back in think about that its not like it keeps it in there till it boils if it is a correctly operating system I'm the thermostat ain't in there how does the water cool down think about that ....

I know of a few people that drill a little hole in the side of the thermostat to allow a constant flow of water through the system.

 

[VR38]

I'm the thermostat ain't in there how does the water cool down think about that ....

With no thermostat present in a serviceable cooling system you would get over cooling, especially in winter.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

From Cooling System Modifications
Source: www.grapeaperacing.com

Cooling System Pressure
The pressure in the block is higher than the radiator pressure; this is because the pump is building pressure due to the thermostat being a restriction. This pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant and reduces the chance of steam pockets, so never run with out a thermostat (or some form of restriction).

The radiator cap will usually hold 15-18 psi. If the radiator holds the system at 15 psi, the boiling point of plain water will be raised to 250° F. The water pump can then make an additional 40-45 psi in the engine and bring that boiling point close to 300° F. So as you can see, pressure is important.

Coolant Flow
Different coolants require different minimum flow rates, but contrary to popular belief, you cannot make the coolant flow too fast. This rumour was started because people removed the thermostat to gain flow, because they had an over heating problem, and it only aggravated the problem. The real reason they ran into problems is that removing the thermostat also removes the restriction that builds pressure in the engine, so they gained flow, but reduced the boiling point of the coolant in the block.

Running a higher flow thermostat and a higher volume pump to maintain pressure, will give no such problems. If you think about it, making the coolant flow twice as fast will also make it flow though the engine twice as often, so there will be more even temperature across the engine.
There has been, and still is, the rumour that if the coolant flows too fast, it will not have time to pick up heat. That is nonsense. As long as there is coolant contact with a surface, the rate of heat transfer will be the same. Coolant that flows twice as fast also flows through the block twice as often.

 

[King diddy calais]

Hey mate, do what ford did with the BA, drill an 8mm hole into the top of the thermostat, it will relief pressure but won't flow fully until it reaches the correct temp. And the water won't smash through causing rapid cooling which is extremely bad for alloy.

 

[mudfish]

As suggested, do the dye check which will detect combustion gases in the coolant. Before you rip the heads off and possibly waste your dollars on a VRS set check the inlet manifold gaskets first. they can leak between the inlet tracts and the coolant transfer ports giving exactly the same symptoms. Seen this happen a few times with the 3.8.

good luck

 

[mbo]

Hi,
might be relevant to your case. I just got a new radiator as the old has a small leak. While reading the instruction, it says that the current flow in the coolant might kill a new radiator in a month or two. So they put it as compulsory to do the test to keep their warranty valid.
The test itself is simple, needs analog mA meter. Just put the neg probe on the neg. terminal of the battery, open the radiator cap and submerge the pos. probe in the fluid (do not touch the radiator body with the probe). Take a reading, I will check tommorow what is the max. current allowable. You need to have all your electrical circuit ON at the test.

I never paid attention to this. On the other hand I don't do lots of work on the casrs!