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Air con

Trevor loves holden.

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Yes and they can be flushed here as well, maybe you get lucky as your car Condenser is older and not made so compact in the cores like todays cars. If you go head with it i keep my fingers crossed for you, good luck. Just get a compressor and drier and hoses and try at less your half way there if any think else needs done.
 

Fu Manchu

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i know a spray painter who is part of a family smash repair business and he was saying some new Euro cars use the Hychill hydrocarbon option for the ac.

The topic is discussed among panel shops as well.

If my car specified that as a refrigerant, then I’d be happy to use it.

The point is, in our cars, it is not specified, and in the off chance a minor smash happened a fire occurred that would not otherwise have happened that would be a concern to me.

If a car has that gas specified to be used and the same situation occurs, so be it. It has been designed/engineered with that in mind. No issues with insurance.
 

Fu Manchu

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You are not likely to be able to buy a new HVAC on a VE or VT-VZ. If a VE HVAC was available (someone will know) the cost would be prohibitive.

You can get genuine evaps still and heater cores.

Agree about cheap JayAir replacements. This happened to me and they didn’t fit which then added several days to the job to fix the problem (return/refund) order genuine.

Use genuine for these parts.

HVACs have simple foam seals or none at all on the joins. In hind sight, I’d use some urethane, on the joins.

I am planning on doing a write up to help others.

Taking the time prior to the job to prepare a replacement with out any pressure to rush makes the job quicker and less stressful. Car back on the road in no time.

I don’t think we should be stinking up threads about arguments regarding non manufacturer specified ac gases.
 

losh1971

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Was it you Fu who replaced the evap on a VE? Awful job, time consuming and I don't think there had been a write up at that time either. I replaced a core on my old Jeep and it sucked. But at least i had a how-to guide to follow.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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I don’t think we should be stinking up threads about arguments regarding non manufacturer specified ac gases.
Only reason it says 134a is that Holden did a deal with them and believed in their lies like many government organisations and car dealers, the danger is much higher in 134a with its toxic gas if it gets down your throat causing acid burn than M30 gas. If your happy with your vent being cold with 134a then good, like a said 134a is pretty useless in my car on days above 35 you almost have to drive over a hour before the benefits from the A/C starts to take effect, no leaks new compressor and fully charged. if 240g leak off in a crash and happen to ignite it be only a flash off so nothing really dangerous, I'm not happy with the 134a so I'm going to go back to Hychill
 

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Was it you Fu who replaced the evap on a VE? Awful job, time consuming and I don't think there had been a write up at that time either. I replaced a core on my old Jeep and it sucked. But at least i had a how-to guide to follow.

Correct.

I have all the photos. I have all the notes. I don’t have all the time, but that changes soon.

I guess writing it up as a word document and pasting it in helps. Maybe as a pdf?
 

NeddyBear

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2 years ago after 15 years od use we had our system serviced because it too was only blowing cool and after having a air conditioning place replace a few parts ($680) all is good again and she's still blowing crispy cold during our recent weeks of 40 degrees days.
 

Fu Manchu

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Do you know what parts they replaced?
 

Trevor loves holden.

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2 years ago after 15 years od use we had our system serviced because it too was only blowing cool and after having a air conditioning place replace a few parts ($680) all is good again and she's still blowing crispy cold during our recent weeks of 40 degrees days.
I can only think they changed the condenser and drier and tx valve for that price, do you know what refrigerant they used?
 
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