Another BCM/ECU question

[2O4TS]

the D plug now becomes the E plug all you had to do was match (20 wires) the colour to colour to the plug is the same, it doesn't change, very simple and the climate control is controlled by the control electronics and not the BCM

but hey what do i know

And what about the other two plugs? Seriously. This is basically why I said your post was of no value to me. Here's the reality. Now maybe, just maybe, I could've cut and soldered a whole stack of wires and re-wired or 'Frankensteined" my BCM set up but I chose not too, preferring to only detach and re-attach the light sockets as that is quite simple and I'm happy to admit I'm not an auto electrician or electronics expert by any definition.

The fact is your post above makes no sense to me at all. So the 'D' becomes 'E'. Righto, so I pulled the BCM and tried to match it with my original BCM and here's what I found.

Note, only two plugs fit in to the BCM from my original loom. That leaves 3 sockets with no matching plugs/wiring to go so if I just swapped BCM's without running the appropriate loom I'd have three empty sockets and dare I say, a whole bunch of stuff that wouldn't work at all. The way I chose to go, every plug has a socket to go in. The socket it was designed for from the same car the BCM came from. Keeps it as standard and as simple as possible. According to multiple posts I read here before attempting this (which I would not have attempted without the advice) I needed to upgrade my BCM to either a lux or high level BCM. I repeat, I'm not the first to do exactly this but I don't see you bagging any of the other posters who've done it exactly as I have (bhopper 2.5 years ago for example). I chose the high as then I could plug in absolutely any option I chose without more cutting and soldering. Eventually I'll have the full compliment of air bags and side impact sensors as well, and I'll just plug 'em in and 'voila', just like everything else so far as the climate is working fine and so too all the other accessories I've just installed. No cutting, no soldering, no trying to sort wires, just plug and play.

So here you can see the two plugs from my original loom that will fit into my high BCM inserted into the high BCM. You will then note that I have one remaining plug on my original loom which does not fit into any of the remaining sockets on my BCM as I have demonstrated in photos 2 and 3. Now since I was informed via my reading here on JC that I had to upgrade my BCM in order to have climate (and when I see the 20 odd wires in two looms hanging out the back of the module I can see why that was recommended particularly when I've not found any instructions anywhere on how to patch those wires into a mid level loom) can you not see how it was simpler to just run the whole loom? It's a relatively simple job AFAIC compared to working out where the plethora of extra wiring goes for all these higher level options then cutting and soldering them all. I think my way simplifies the whole deal.

Now I'm more than happy for you to give me a detailed rundown of how to install all the high level options with my original loom without upgrading the BCM and/or exactly and I mean specifically install the high level BCM without the corresponding loom but at this point in time your description that "D becomes E" is of little value to me without considerably more detail. Therefore at the moment and until such time as you can correct my reasoning by supplying me with those detailed instructions, I stand by my method of replacing the whole loom and BCM. If you have an easier way, please, by all means, spell it out in fine detail. I'm sure there are many more people here on JC that would like to know how to do it.

 

[2O4TS]

if the start relay "clicks" and you have substituted another relay
the problem must be
wiring from relay to starter motor, starter motor itself or negative strap to motor

OK, cranking problem solved... well sort of. There's an issue with the park switch inhibitor. Today of all days it had to rain and my car isn't undercover 'cos we needed the shed and carport on the weekends prior so my car was banished to the dirt, now mud patch so for obvious reasons the sparky wasn't too keen to crawl under. Can't blame him. So BCM and ECU now matched and cranking by bridging the start relay terminals. Not with the key though and looking at the diagrams we're thinking the park switch inhibitor may have a different setup on the WH as we can't find any way to make the VT one work. That's OK, I have to get under the car which I'm not doing while it's raining and check it out. I'll crawl in the mud but one cold, wet side at a time is enough thanks so waiting for the rain to clear.

One other issue (amongst a few others I'll tackle one at a time) despite having spark, and injectors firing I have no fuel so have to trace that as well. To run the loom to the tank/fuel pump I had to drop the tank and since I have an L67 going in eventually I decided to put the L67 fuel pump in while the tank was out. It may be the pump is stuffed but again, I'll crawl under with the test light and check for power and earth when it stops raining. If need be I'll swap pumps back and then once that's sorted I can at least move it under cover again. Of course it won't rain for a month then.

Thanks again to those who've been of assistance. Having been a lurker here for years before joining the forum I'd generally managed to answer my queries with a search and read so it's great to have people who are happy to help out and is what makes this site so helpful, informative and also regularly entertaining. :spot on:

Edit: Just something of note which surprised me. After running the loom I had no headlights. Not something I was expecting as I couldn't see why it would be any different on the Stato. They just plugged straight in to the Stato loom with the Stato BCM. The high beam worked when you pulled the stalk towards you like when you might flash your lights but went off upon release regardless of whether the lights were turned on at the switch or not. Hmmm. Anyway as it wasn't a priority it was on the list of, 'after I get it running'. So I'm in the car this afternoon after the sparky's been and I dunno why but turned the light switch to 'on' and I'll be buggered, headlights working. Would not have expected that linking the BCM and ECU would fix the headlight issue. Awesome it did but surprising to me. One less thing to fix.

 

[lout]

the higher end cars often have 2 switches on the trans
one for the ECU/start etc and one for gear shift position illumination on the dash
you may have mixed up the wiring connectors

 

[2O4TS]

the higher end cars often have 2 switches on the trans
one for the ECU/start etc and one for gear shift position illumination on the dash
you may have mixed up the wiring connectors

Interesting. I haven't touched anything on the trans at all. Thanks again.

 

[2O4TS]

Righto. So issues slowly being sorted. All my lights working other than interior and fog lights. They'll be last on the list.

Main issue right now is I have no power to the fuel pump. Anyway long story short it appears the loom I have is from, I'm guessing, a WH Series II. I got the loom for free with no idea exactly what it was from, only that it was from a WH Stato but at a glance it appeared the same. By and large it's been OK to deal with. A few minor issues as mentioned but nothing too major.

So, being that it's most likely a later loom some of you will know that the fuel pump connector is different. I found a plug which went straight into my existing socket with very similar coloured wiring but when the fuel pump wasn't working I did some investigation and realised that despite fitting it was the wrong plug (I'm guessing something for the self leveling suspension). I found the plug I needed, or more accurately the wiring I needed but of course the plug won't fit my socket as my socket is the 'square' type and the plug I have is the 'flat' type.

So if anyone can help me, what I'd like to know is what the wires on each of the original 'square' fuel pump socket are for and also on the 'flat' plug that I have on my loom so as I can cut and solder my original plug on.

The flat plug is coloured Black, Black/White, Violet/White, Light Blue, Violet.

The original square socket is Black/Blue, Black/White, Yellow (I think, could be light brown, it may be discoloured), Violet.

I can probably guess the Violet will be the same. From tracing it back I believe that to be my fuel pump 12v. The others, well I could take a stab but if anyone knows specifically what they are for or can suggest how I should go that'd be great. I can start the thing as soon as the pump is working. Cheers guys.

Edit: The first wire on the flat plug I should've typed Black/Blue

 

[lout]

V8 and SC V6 use a fuel pump control module
black/blue -ground,
violet/white -fuel pump positive...fuel pump pos and neg may be reversed
black/white -fuel pump neg
light blue - to ECU
.V6
violet fuel pump pos
black/blue -fuel pump neg
fuel gauge
brown - fuel gauge sender
black/yellow -fuel gauge ground

 

[2O4TS]

OK. I knew the V8 did but not the L67 but yeah, I can understand why. I know the L67 pump flows more under WOT so assume the V8 is the same. OK, so what you've listed on the bottom there is my original wiring. So it looks like the loom I have is a V8 loom. The guy I got it from had a V8 Stato so that makes sense too.

Well I should be good to go then. And I've got an L67 going in eventually so all I'll need is the module now and I have the wiring already there!

Thanks again for your help lout. Your advice has been invaluable. Massively appreciated.

 

[2O4TS]

Got the car started yesterday. I located a Violet wire which is definitely fuel pump positive and ran a ground via a Black/Blue wire which intersects with other Black/Blue wires to ground. Tested the Violet wire first and it cycled on for a second or so, exactly as the circuit did at the relay so was confident I had the right wire and sure enough after hooking it up the car started. Well after I lowered the drivers side down enough to get the little bit of fuel left in the tank after draining it it started anyway and happily ran until I switched it off after about fifteen minutes.

So this afternoon, with the little bit of light I had left I went to hook up the fuel gauge. Once that's done I can drive it again.

So, assuming the Light Blue is for the Fuel Pump Control Module I'm left with Violet/White and Black/White. Unfortunately, none of those three wires are indicating any current. Obviously I didn't get the gauge to work. I have to unwrap the loom inside the boot where two loom branches intersect to see what's going on because just inside the cabin where the loom runs along the floor on the driver's side, I can't find either a Violet/White wire or a Black/White wire. If that doesn't yield any answers then I'll start unwrapping the rest of the loom going through the boot floor down to the fuel pump etc. to see what I can find. I should also mention that I hooked my test light up to a wire that runs to my amp which is straight to the battery and used the probe to look for grounds. I would've expected the Black/White wire to be a ground wire but the test light didn't illuminate which is what got me looking to see where that Black/White wire went and failing to locate it inside the cabin.

Once I had the pump wires sorted I expected the gauge wires to be a non-issue so more investigation now required as soon as I get a chance.

One more thing, in post #25 of this thread the first wire colour on the flat plug I mentioned was "Black". That was incorrect. I should've said Black/Blue. I'll put an amendment in that post to correct it.