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Any worthwhile SV6 mods while the engines being swapped?

tennuteproject

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How ya going,
Just got my hands on a really clean late 2010 plated VE SV6 Ute manual series 1.
The guy I got it from had no clue what was wrong with it and had just said it died on him one day and he never bothered to see what was wrong, he said the engine seized up but he wasn't %100 sure what specifically. We managed to get it off him for only $1k. The body on this this is super clean, not a dint in sight. It only has 119000km on it so even if we have to swap the whole motor it should be worth it, and a good experience for learning.

My question is, in the situation the whole motor needs to be pulled out and swapped are there any worthwhile upgrades for the new engine to free up some KW?

Also currently we got the engine to spin manually, with a bit of force, taking out spark plugs to reduce compression didn't make it that much easier to spin, so its not completely locked up.
Car wont start, accessories work but the car wont crank at all, no sound or movement at all from starter.
Currently we're guessing timing chain but want to start it to see.
 

shane_3800

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What are you looking for out of it? A daily driver? What's your budget?

I assume you don't want to spend heaps and daily drive it so just exhaust and a tune will do. Maybe hunt down a better diff second hand.
 

tennuteproject

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What are you looking for out of it? A daily driver? What's your budget?

I assume you don't want to spend heaps and daily drive it so just exhaust and a tune will do. Maybe hunt down a better diff second hand.

Yeah definitely looking to make it a daily driver and yeah not really looking to spend unnecessarily. Would you recommend a full exhaust, is there any power in it? I've read aftermarket headers can free up some power but i'm not sure how much.
 

shane_3800

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Yeah definitely looking to make it a daily driver and yeah not really looking to spend unnecessarily. Would you recommend a full exhaust, is there any power in it? I've read aftermarket headers can free up some power but i'm not sure how much.

Yea full exhaust. I'm not 100% on whats best but Not an abba fan will know. It's probably going to be dual 2-1/2 as there's not much in 2-1/4. 2-1/2 is a little on the big side but there will be plenty out there in that size.

You'll gain 8% off the exhaust and 2% off intake, those are approximate numbers tune will gain extra. So you shpuld keep an eye out for a second hand full system and don't bother with the intake.
 

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This sounds more like the immobiliser/security system doing its job.

I would be double checking that all the modules & ECM have matching VIN numbers using a high end diagnostic device. This device will also be able to test out various functions to see if there is a problem.

First rule of fault finding is to ignore the last persons fault finding because they failed to find the fault. Like when someone loses their keys and you say, “Did you check place x” and they say, “Yeah I checked there. They aren’t there”, and you go to place x and lift something up and there’s the keys.

“It’s been sitting around for a while” could mean, they tried to fix something by say swapping a module and not realised it stopped the car working. Then put it in the too hard basket and left the car sitting around until you came a long.

Timing chains, compression lock etc all mean nothing if the car doesn’t crank.

The car should crank and that is not going to be related to what you are doing.

Barking up the wrong tree.
 
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