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Best method of N/A Air intake?

Nut Kracker

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MACE do offer a nice product with their CAI no doubt, but personally in my case I have the VS S/C OTR CAI running a K&N hi flow panel filter
attachment.php

I've also fully insulated it to prevent engine heatsoak - check it :- VP-S Anti heat soak campaign for OTR CAI
This is a marked improvement over the stock OEM behind the head light junk.

The 2 hole airbox mod also allows more air, but in saying that it all leads back to the MACE CAI, Steve has designed the kit very well,
looks simple but plenty of his engineering expertise has gone into the kit & all his other innovative mods which others try to copy & fail or be served..

Interesting. I've got an aluminium VCM otr (see picture below) which gets quite hot therefore decreasing the intake air temp.
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming the insulation will decrease the temp of the otr allowing for a colder air intake?
Or, mine being aluminium and not plastic as shown, would the insulation keep the heat in?

P1010044.jpg
 

0081

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Chip Board/MDF? trolololol

Anyway, in my own personal opinion after doing each one of these mods individually to see their effect:
  • K&N Filter
  • L67 OTR intake
  • MACE 25mm manifold spacer
  • MACE 12mm plenum spacer

I literally noticed nothing.

Lucky i only spent $200 on all the above not full price.

Marginal throttle/torque response lower down the rev range from the manifold spacer, however, that is pure physics. Longer intake runners = low down torque traded off for lack of torque higher up the rev range and vice versa. By installing the manifold spacer along with torque lower down, it also runs out of puff higher up the rev range (again, pure physics).
I still can't touch the manifold, if I held my hand on the plenum lid, i'd probably end up in hospital.

In a nutshell, there is essentially nothing to be achieved from spending money on a stock ecotec's intake system. One of Holden's engines which you literally can't get any more out of until you start fiddling with the valve train/stroker kits etc.
For the $ for kw return, it's also a shitty investment.

End story.

Its is harder to get more power out of the NA V6 compaired to the V8 and your only going to make more power if what you are changing is causing a restriction. There is near no point changing the throttle body if your filter cant flow more air.
you said you installed a K&N filter, was this i panel or a pod. if it was a panel did you mod the air box as if you didnt i bet if you do you will see marked gains.
or did you got a pod open to the bay or a mace style box around it.

Many people carry out mods to get more power as they are not happy with the car just to be upset when they dony see gains but in fact there was a underlying problem that was causing the lack of power in the first place
 

some_guy

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Its is harder to get more power out of the NA V6 compaired to the V8 and your only going to make more power if what you are changing is causing a restriction. There is near no point changing the throttle body if your filter cant flow more air.
you said you installed a K&N filter, was this i panel or a pod. if it was a panel did you mod the air box as if you didnt i bet if you do you will see marked gains.
or did you got a pod open to the bay or a mace style box around it.

Many people carry out mods to get more power as they are not happy with the car just to be upset when they dony see gains but in fact there was a underlying problem that was causing the lack of power in the first place

It took two seconds to view his "my ride" and clarify.

He has a factory holdnen delivered otr super6 intake into a stock airbox with a K&N Panel filter.

This means he has "modded" the stock airbox.

So there goes your theory.
 

DJ_Cosmic_Fire

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Interesting. I've got an aluminium VCM otr (see picture below) which gets quite hot therefore decreasing the intake air temp.
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming the insulation will decrease the temp of the otr allowing for a colder air intake?
Or, mine being aluminium and not plastic as shown, would the insulation keep the heat in?

P1010044.jpg

Hey Nut Kracker - Nice Engine Bay!

Yes you have it right in regards to the insulation method that I have devised, as VS S/C OTR CAI has been documented as being a heatsoak nightmare for the earlier models.

You having an LS1 the set up is totally different (Much Better) so insulation of your OTR would just make your engine bay not as pretty, but the cold air/density principal still stands.
 

Nut Kracker

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Hey Nut Kracker - Nice Engine Bay!

Yes you have it right in regards to the insulation method that I have devised, as VS S/C OTR CAI has been documented as being a heatsoak nightmare for the earlier models.

You having an LS1 the set up is totally different (Much Better) so insulation of your OTR would just make your engine bay not as pretty, but the cold air/density principal still stands.

Thanks for that.
Its not an LS1, it's a modded 304.
I realise the insulation would detract the appearance, but I just had a thought that most of the heat could be coming from the radiator, so some insulation
under the OTR could have an impact on lowering the heat as well as not visible.
Stange thing is, is that the OTR is somewhat insulated from the manifold by the silicone tube so most of the heat must be coming from the radiator
and some from the engine bay. Your thoughts???
 

DJ_Cosmic_Fire

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Thanks for that.
Its not an LS1, it's a modded 304.
I realise the insulation would detract the appearance, but I just had a thought that most of the heat could be coming from the radiator, so some insulation
under the OTR could have an impact on lowering the heat as well as not visible.
Stange thing is, is that the OTR is somewhat insulated from the manifold by the silicone tube so most of the heat must be coming from the radiator
and some from the engine bay. Your thoughts???

Cool I stand corrected re your motor - I relate LS1 (GenIII 5.7ltr) to be VT series II onwards, anyways the engine bay as a whole creates the heatsoak (oven effect) - so is your bonnet vented? that would allow some hot air out. Radiator would have minimal effect but you could insulate the OTR just to see if it works, costs next to nothing except your time & some formshield/proshield (whatever they feel like naming it at the time) from century foam or clark rubber. If it makes a difference then happy days, if you can handle the engine bay not looking as pretty that is..
 

Nut Kracker

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Cool I stand corrected re your motor - I relate LS1 (GenIII 5.7ltr) to be VT series II onwards, anyways the engine bay as a whole creates the heatsoak (oven effect) - so is your bonnet vented? that would allow some hot air out. Radiator would have minimal effect but you could insulate the OTR just to see if it works, costs next to nothing except your time & some formshield/proshield (whatever they feel like naming it at the time) from century foam or clark rubber. If it makes a difference then happy days, if you can handle the engine bay not looking as pretty that is..

No it's not vented. I have been thinking about that though. I might try the insulation just to see what happens, but wont keep it there permanently.
I once made an insulation cover for my friends car fridge out of 2 of those cheap, silver windscreen, keep the sun out thingy's. Sewed it all up and it made the fridge up to 10 degrees C cooler.
 

IRON8

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what i did with mine was with the snorkel, i cut two big wedges out of a bit of timber and hammered into the mouth end, priying it wide open, poured boiling water over it to soffen the plastic and hammered the wedges in more then poured boiling water over it again (sounds rednek as) then held under cold water for a minute or soand pulled wedges out. this gave it a much bigger opening.

Then I took off the grill, and with a grinder cut a section out between the two fixing points. With the off cut, flipped it upside-down and fixed as per the pic
 

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Kiddo

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anyway back on the topic of thread, what i did with mine was with the snorkel, i cut two big wedges out of a bit of timber and hammered into the mouth end, priying it wide open, poured boiling water over it to soffen the plastic and hammered the wedges in more then poured boiling water over it again (sounds rednek as) then held under cold water for a minute or soand pulled wedges out. this gave it a much bigger opening.

Then I took off the grill, and with a grinder cut a section out between the two fixing points. With the off cut, flipped it upside-down and fixed as per the pic

+1 For taking the initiative to do it yourself.

-2 For it making little to no difference.
 
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