Budget System - Help

[Josheh]

So I still need to rewire / put new speaker wire too the doors? Damn, If it was just a matter of going from the head unit under the scuff panels to the boot that's absalutely geniously easy, Done that with my old sub, But I've never done anything with speakers / speaker wire, So I'm a little scared still.. Haha Am I correct?

I could probably look into ebay for gear as long as the seller is trusted, And the items are new, So I might have a look on there a guess.... hmm

 

[acarmody]

Why? Thats the easiest part. Take the scuff panels off (I'm sure thats the right name but thats the long plastic strip that goes along the bottom of the door frame from the drive kick panel to the back seat), lift back seat up (10 seconds), and just lay the wire down. Literally a 10 minute job. You know that split come with a crossover right? Well most people just put that behind those weird vent things on the side of the dash, and then just cut the door speaker wire, and plug that into the crossover so you don't have to thread new wire into the door.

 

[acarmody]

As for parts I recommend, and this will stretch you budget but much better......

Speakers:
Shopping Secure - Car Audio Specialists - SPL Dynamics SD-6.2
Shopping Secure - Car Audio Specialists - FLI INTEGRATOR COMP 6

Amp:
Ryda Car Audio - Fusion RE-AM90040 4 Ch Car Amplifier($232.95)

Wiring kit:
Ryda Car Audio - Aerpro MX004 1000W Amp Power Wiring Kit 4GA($40.25)

Then all you need is a RCA cable:
Ryda Car Audio - Aerpro Maxcor RCA Lead 5M - Male to Male($7.65)

About 10 metres (thats plenty of spare, just in case)
About $0.50/metre from anywhere, JB, Jaycar, Disck Smith, Tandy, etc.

And you away.

EDIT: Oh and the reason I picked that amp is because its a perfect power match for the speakers, and it can power your subwoofer when you get it. It would take all of 5 minutes to install a sub, and that includes time for a beer.

 

[Josheh]

EDITED::

isn't my car doors 6" ? Wouldnt 6.5 I need to modify the holes or something in the door ?

So,

FLI INTEGRATOR COMP 6 Front Speakers - $130
Fusion RE-AM90040 4 Ch Car Amplifier - $232.95
Aerpro MX004 1000W Amp Power Wiring Kit 4GA - $40
RCA Cable from DSE @ 50c a meter - Say $10

Total of = $412


Geesh quite a lot, But If it's going to make quite a good difference then It'll be worth it... Then Later All I'll need to do is buy my Subwoofer, Which I'd get a singer one thats in a nice box like $200 from like JBHifi.

With the front part WITHOUT the sub, How much difference will I notice?

My mate payed like 400ish and got front door speakers, 6x9's and one of them fusion amp and sub box, It's decent"iSH" like my old setup on the real cheap amp/sub packs.... but Will just my front speakers running nicely off that amp Sound pretty much the same maybe even BETTER ? Or easily better, Obviously I'm not going to get much bass without a sub though...

Oh and then theres my Sub I get later, It'll plugin to the amp you listed later as well, No more bs just plug and play practically? - ANSWERED IN EDIT.. PERFECT!

I hope you can answer my last 2 questions mate, You've been absalutely awesome help and I'm very thankful.

My Main concern mate is just the "Is the sound difference worth it".... But I know it's probably hard to actually tell me...

 

[acarmody]

HAHA this time I got you, LOL.

Oh and as for 6.5" not fitting, don't worry they will fit, every decent and above set of splits will be 6.5", all you MIGHT have to do is just cut out the back of the speaker pod, stanley knife + 1 minute = done.

As for that amp, it will run a sub but not a really powerful one. It will only provide 230wrms for a sub.

Personally if I was doing what you are doing I would just get the 2-channel version of that amp (Ryda Car Audio - Fusion RE-AM45020 2 Ch Car Amplifier($132.95)), and get a second amp later for a sub, a nice monoblock amp (these are designed to run subs and nothing else). This will save you some cash now, and get a better product down the line.

 

[acarmody]

See something like this Ryda Car Audio - Fusion Powerplant Mono Block 3000W Amplifier($372.95) will provide 1500wrms for only $372, but you will save $100 now, and this amp will provide 7 times the power of the four channel.

Keep in mind though that if you want something like this, you will need bigger power cable. Better to install one set of cable now and not have to replace it later on down the track. I know this from experience.

 

[Josheh]

HAHAHA DAMNIT YOU GOT ME

Nice, that really brings back my price range! Back to the nicely suited 300 price range... But buying a monoblock later for the sub since It'll be pretty soon after getting the amp "2 or 4 weeks" from now I'll be buying the sub... So I'll need to reput wire down everywhere....

Would the $412 setup be better in that case? I'd rather not have to install 2 amps within the 2 or 4 weeks, My mate will probably get shitty using his area and knowlage removing everything... haha...

Would the 4channel amp still power the amp decently without worries? Was thinking something like this when I get the sub:

Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer TS-WX301 800W 12" Sub In Box($178.85)

It won't be something majorly over the top...... Just something to give it some bloody nice oomph too what I already have...... Which I know will sound pretty damn sweet for a begginner who's used too just $100 pioneer fronts and rears and a fusion sub / amp box......

Better to just stick with the 4channel $250 amp?

And Do you think I'd be able to get somewhere local to price match ryda like jb hifi on the amp and buy locally?!?!?

 

[acarmody]

Oh yeah the 4-channel amp will power that sub no problems. Also keep in mind (because a lot of people confuse this) that this is a 150 watt sub, always read RMS or nominal power.

I would spend the little bit extra and go something like Ryda Car Audio -Pioneer TS-WX303 12" 1200W Subwoofer In Box($238.85) , but thats down the track.

As for price matching, I don't like your chances, Autobarn are pretty crap with range and prices, and I don't think JB sell Fusion. Maybe try Supercheap Auto, I think they stock Fusion product but I highly doubt they could match that price. Read this, Has anyone purchased through Ryda dot com - Photography , seems that Ryda are very good. They also have a physical store in NSW, no good to you, but just showing they aren't some shonky online place that can up and disappear.

 

[Josheh]

Mate, I Would like to thank you very much for helping me, I have 3 very last questions and My bother should finally finish....

1. I was hoping I could just buy everything from the same place instead of the speakers from that other spot.... Would there be anything just as good as the speakers you mentioned but from ryda with the same price ?... If not I'll have to buy from the other spot... I just would rather it come all at once and together in my "cart / checkout" if I was to buy online.. IF NOT I will not mind buying from 2 different places! But Highly would rather buy all from ryder, But like i said, if theres nothing close too those FLI for the price or even cheaper then I wont be able too I guess.... But Ryda Have like, Fusions and stuff for sometimes $100+ off!! Can you have a quick squizz and find better / decent speakers from that site instead please mate?

Fusion PP-FR6520 6.5" Car Speakers
List Price: $219.00
Our Price: $116.95
You Save $102.05!

This is what I think their specs are:

* BRAND NEW FUSION PowerPlant 6.5" 2-Way Speakers PP-FR6520
* Speaker cones forged from CURV, a material only found in exclusive audiophile hi-fi products
* Hi-tech butyl rubber surrounds
* PowerPlant Full Range Speakers also have an external crossover for more precise sound, adjustable by 12dB
* 240 Max Power (Watts)
* 110 RMS Power (Watts)
* 65mm Mounting Depth
* 91 Sensitivity (dB) (1W/1M)
* 55Hz-22kHz Frequency Response
* External crossover
* Comes complete with two grille options (custom and mesh)

2. And the very last thing Since We've sorted it out... PLEASEEE tell me what you think I'm going to think about the difference.... How much noticable difference will there be ? Bit more high end and maybe bass "a little bit", I'm sure they'll be better than my speakers now, But I'd just like to know what I'm going to be expecting..

3. Installing..... A very rough guide would be handy to explain to my mate and see if He'd know what to do if i ran into any problems....

1. Put Amp in boot.
2. Run 1 RCA Cable from amp to head unit
3. Run the blue whire to the same place
4. Connect something to battery
5. Do the easyish cd speaker wire thing

Is this correct?

Edit: Just realised... I didn't add value for the shipping costs... there's another $50 hah! I HATE ONLINE SHOPPING I'm spending quite a bit! Should get it free.... "Dreams" haha, Just checked Checkout on everything even the fusion stuff just to check shipping costs and it says $22.. Thats for Amp, Wiring kit, And the speakers if you give me the go ahead. $412.50 all up.

Edit: **** I need to go for about 30 - 1 hour, Much appreciated in advance if you reply, And I'll finish up / Ask anything else related When I return.

 

[acarmody]

1. In all honesty, not really anything on Ryda that would match that price. If you want to spend more than yeah, but for >$150...not really.

2. Yeah mate it will sound HEAPS better. I remember when I got my first sound system, tiny 4-channel amp with 40wrms going to some Pioneer door speakers, and 160wrms going to a Pioneer sub. Man I was blown away couldn't believe it. I gave that sub such a flogging for the first week, I look back now and wonder how I didn't kill it. Now the setup I've got you looking at has 80wrms going to each door speaker and 230wrms going to the sub (which is probably twice what that old fusion sub of yours was getting).

3. OK rough guide.

* Bolt amp in boot
* Run 2 sets of RCAs to boot. The back of your H/U has 2 pairs, one for front and one for rear, obviously front will be for doors and rears will be for sub.
* While your at the back of the H/U find the power wire, this obviously only turns on when the key is in the ignition, splice that (solider it and wrap in electrical tape), and run this next to the RCA down the left side of car. This is the REM cable, usually plugs between positive and negative terminal on amp. It makes sure the amp only turns on when car is on, otherwise it would drain you battery when car is off.
* While back seat is up, unbolt one of the seatbelt bolt and sand paint away, place negative power cable ring under bolt and bolt back down, then plug into amp.

* Install speakers in door, put the crossovers in behind the vent things on end of dash, held in by 3 screws. Install tweeters in factory dash position, demister plate just lifts up. Either use factory cable or lay own/supplied cable from crossover to speaker. Putting own is not hard, and good insurance. You may need to cut back out of speaker pod as new speakers will be deeper, just cut back off with a knife, no problems with this, just only cut as much as you need to.
*Run new speaker cable down each side of car for each door speaker, to the crossovers.
*Speakers done
*Now last thing is the power cable from amp. Lay cable from battery, through the engine bay, through the clutch grommet (This is just below and to the passenger side of the brake booster), behind carpet to drivers kick panel, and run underneath drivers side scuff panel (run power cable and RCAs on opposite side of car). Under back seat, into boot and hook up to amp.

Now tune the amp.
* First set Channels 1 and 2 (these are the door speakers) to HPF and set to about 80hz
* Now set the gain on the amp (very important to do it right). Get the gain to lowest, play a 'normal' song on the H/U at a 'normal' volume (not on max), and slowly raise the gain until you can hear ANY distortion, then turn it back a little bit.

*DONE, have a carton and life is good.