central locking installation

[yobbo88]

i know your questions are directed at 85berlina but a trick i came up with (im sure other people have thought of it though) is chuck the alarm onto the interior light... this makes all doors protected from opening. i didnt have time to connect to the ignition etc i would also assume at the fuse is a good a place as any along the line to pickup a surge of electricity

 

[imnothereanymore]

the reason why it pushes ya key back is its out of adjustment fuill stop
make sure all clamps and in the corect places
eg. pull look button down pull motor down then conect clamp
ive been fitting this stuff 15 yrs and its always the same story when ppl dont do it right
its easy fixed

 

[bigg_vin]

so when i install it, should i open lock and open actuator then clamp together?

or lock door and puch actuator down then clamp?

the instructions say the first option, but obviously that hasnt worked....
thanks

 

[bigg_vin]

also, with the engine immobilizer/ignition cut out relay, i dont have a diagram to show me where the wires from the relay go....

does anyone know or are they all different?

 

[85berlina]

You should probably do what Daron. has said first. (I assumed that they were adjusted properly)

If you still run into problems, then it sounds like the relay is negatively triggered. My system is negatively triggered.
Make sure that the common contact on the switches in the actuator is grounded and the other two wires are connected appropriately.
If you have a dodgy earth or you have one of the other switch contacts grounded, then that would be a problem.

To test to see if the relay is negatively triggered, put a multimeter on DC volts and connect it across one trigger from the relay and an earth on the vehicle. If there is a voltage there, then it is negatively triggered becuase the switch in the actuator will gorund the trigger wire and trigger the relay. This should be done with the actuator disconnected from the relay and power is connected to the system.

To test if the contact is grounded properly, put the meter on ohms or continuity and put the meter across the common contact on the actuator and a suitable earth on the vehicle. This should be done with the actuator connected to the relay and power is connected to the system.




If the relay does turn out to be positively triggered (By what you have said, it seems very unlikely), then check you have +ve 12v at the common contact. This should be done with the actuator connected to the relay and power is connected to the system.

I know that this might be a bit to take in but these are actually quick 5 minute tests.




About the alarm, the indicator and brake wires can't be connected at the fuse. This is because it will connecting before the indicator switch and the stop light switch. This will mean that the indicator lights will not flash unless the indicator switch is switched on and the stop light wire will constantly have +ve 12v applied and the alarm will be constantly triggered. So, the wires have to be connected after the switches.
Could you please tell me what brand this alarm is.


Also about the alarm and the relay, are you talking about the immobilisor relay inside the alarm module, or an external relay that is triggered by the alarm module.

I am terrible at explaining stuff so if you don't understand something just ask me to clarify.

 

[85berlina]

Sorry, it posted the above twice.

 

[bigg_vin]

no i understand, its cool!

firstly, the central locking actuator is negetavily triggered.....

the alarm is from Jaycar... belive it or not!

its the "full feature car alarm" in the brochure. LA-9005.

im talking about the external relay that needs to be wired into the control module.

 

[85berlina]

The LA9005 is the exact alarm I have in my car. It is a very very good alarm when set up properly.

I can tell you that the alarm uses the brake trigger wire to tell the alarm when to lock the doors while driving. This is a security feature and it will unlock the doors when you turn the car off. I found that it was very annoying and so I never connected it. That is all that wire does so if you don't want it, then don't connect it.

If you leave the car unlocked, the alarm will beep three times telling you have left it unlocked. I also found this annoying and it can be disabled by changing a jumper inside the alarm. There are 2-3 jumpers in there for various features and if you want to disable it, then I can tell you which jumper to alter very soon.

Another thing is that the indicators will flash when the door is opened. Once again, I didn't like this. I solved this by using a relay that is triggered by the doors opening and cuts the circuit from the alarm to the indicators. When the doors are closed the circuit is restored to normal.

About the relay, the pins should be numbered on the base. Pins 85 and 86 are the coil on the relay and the alarm output to the relay is negatively triggered. So one side of the coil will go to the alarm output and the other goes to a +ve 12v source.
Pins 30 and 87 are for the normally open contacts and that should be connected so that it acts as a switch for what you are immobilising.
You can put multiple relays on the one output from the alarm which will allow you to have more immobilisation points.
The set up for the above is all from memory and I will check that soon.

Also, about the interior light thing, it is much easier to connect it directly to the back of one door switch. This is of course connecting the wire to the interior light elctrically speaking as well but I am just clarifying that.

Also, if you are near the shire in Sydney at all (I don't know) and you need a hand, I don't mind.

 

[bigg_vin]

im actually in melbourne, but i really appreciate the offer.

with the indicators, where should i connect the wires coming from the alarm control unit?

what is a general immobilization point? ie, where would i put the relay(s)?

dumb question i know.

but considering its a manual car, should i do the fuel pump? starter? and do i literally just cut the wire going to the device and put the relay in between? and if this is so, i would cut the negative because its negatively triggered correct?

i have already run a constant 12v source to behind the head set, so i dont think the interior light thing applies to me.

with the siren, i put a fuse inline with the 12v supply because it didnt have one, should i have?

thanks

 

[yobbo88]

yeah i tapped into the drivers door switch as i have all the alarm wiring in my VH in the driver kick panel... 85berlina from what you've said you work at jaycar in caringbah/taren point? if so i very well may have met you thats one of my favourite shops around. bigg_vin my siren draws power from the main unit but yours may be different.... fuses dont hurt anyone as long as it still works