[Ecotec] Changing head bolts

[Draimond]

I bought a set of ARP head studs off Mace and I'm wondering if I can just pop the rocket covers off and swap the stock bolts out one by one torquing up the studs as I go, as opposed to taking all the bolts out before installing the studs.

The engine is all together, not doing gaskets or anything.

 

[Deuce]

Back them all off 1 by 1 in the correct sequence.
Then swap them one by one, then complete the correct torque sequence.

Then move to the other side and repeat.

 

[Fu Manchu]

*rocker covers. There’s rocker arms under there. There’s no rockets.

 

[Draimond]

*rocker covers. There’s rocker arms under there. There’s no rockets.

Depends if I do up the head bolts or not.

Yeah ok, so in answer to my question: no I can't swap them out one at a time. Cheers

 

[vxcalais_01]

Why are you changing them over for ? Just for added security ? With some engines there are clearance issues with the Arp studs near the exhaust manifold. Not sure if this is with aftermarket headers only. Wish Arp did just a straight reusable bolt set for these. Would have been better. Some believe the studs stress the head ?

 

[Draimond]

I'm wanting to swap the stock head bolts out for the ARP studs because I'm adding a turbo. Probably doesn't need it at the moment because it's only getting a couple of PSI. I bought them because I've got another engine that I'm going to be rebuilding once the turbo conversions finished. That's when I'm going to be chasing PSI and power. Current and ongoing build thread in my signature.

I don't think I've ever heard anything about the ARP studs interfering with anything on the ecotec. Although with the amount of learning I've had to do to be able to do this whole turbo conversion, especially having done all the work myself, I feel like I'm forgetting stuff as I try to learn more.

I would imagine that an unported cast iron head wouldn't see too much deformation.
Listening to some of the guys playing with two or three thousand horsepower RBs, yeah they are distorting and destroying heads pretty routinely. But the heads they use are aluminium and heavily ported.

 

[Immortality]

Why are you changing them over for ? Just for added security ? With some engines there are clearance issues with the Arp studs near the exhaust manifold. Not sure if this is with aftermarket headers only. Wish Arp did just a straight reusable bolt set for these. Would have been better. Some believe the studs stress the head ?

Grade 12.9 cap screws are about the same or slightly better than the standard ARP 8740 bolts, just make sure you good machine grade washers with them.

Any fastener that applies more load is going to put more stress on the components it's been used in/with. Whether or not that extra load is going to do any damage is the question. I doubt cast heads will suffer.

 

[vxcalais_01]

I'm wanting to swap the stock head bolts out for the ARP studs because I'm adding a turbo. Probably doesn't need it at the moment because it's only getting a couple of PSI. I bought them because I've got another engine that I'm going to be rebuilding once the turbo conversions finished. That's when I'm going to be chasing PSI and power. Current and ongoing build thread in my signature.

I don't think I've ever heard anything about the ARP studs interfering with anything on the ecotec. Although with the amount of learning I've had to do to be able to do this whole turbo conversion, especially having done all the work myself, I feel like I'm forgetting stuff as I try to learn more.

I would imagine that an unported cast iron head wouldn't see too much deformation.
Listening to some of the guys playing with two or three thousand horsepower RBs, yeah they are distorting and destroying heads pretty routinely. But the heads they use are aluminium and heavily ported.

Depending on the boost, I am not sure how long the graphite head gaskets will hold up and if it is caused by the heads lifting due to the TTY standard bolts. But then least you have the bolts for future head swap. The ARP do stretch to some extent, but as long as the threads are fine and haven't been over tightened they should last. Worth re torquing after a few months is a good idea as well. I have an engine I will be putting on a Turbo or Procharger as well and will be watching closely Best of luck.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Gale Banks recons stock head bolts are the shizz.

 

[Draimond]

Alrighty Cheers guys, sounds good.

Such a monster of a job going from a stock V6 auto to a turbo manual with a Haltech all by myself.

Adding real boost is a long way off still. Having a car that idles and drives.... heck... just having a car instead of a project and pile of parts is the number one goal at the moment.

I'll keep the ARP bolts in my stage 2 parts pile then.

Initial target is 5 psi just on the wastegate without any boost control running on E10. Under 200kw, manageable engine bay temps, good cold starts and idle etc. Just get her happy and then go from there.