Check Oil Notification on dash

[daniel1994]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2004 Commodore VZ executive and all of a sudden now the Check Oil comes up on the dash. I have checked the oil with the dipstick and that's saying it is full.

When the notification comes on, the car will start making a very loud ticking noise and the notification keeps beeping.

Hope someone can help

Thanks!
Daniel

 

[gossie]

How many kms?
Last oil and filter change, when?
What oil used?

 

[daniel1994]

273,117kms

Last oil and filter change would of been July (keep in mind that the car hasn’t been driven a lot lately as I have been working from home)

Oil is Casterol 10w40

 

[Ginger Beer]

Check your wiring, if all else fails do an oil change and see if there is any oil pump in your oil.

 

[shane_3800]

Your engine is likely full of sludge and the pickup is sludged up. It's probably time for a full rebuild.

 

[gossie]

Thanks for your info.
10-40 oil is far too heavy/ thick for that engine. 5-30 is correct.
It does sound like thick oil and sludge clogging things up.
May I suggest getting it to your mechanic to drop the oil, perhaps do a flush that may help and fill with 5-30 and see what happens.
The sump and cam covers could be removed and as much sludge cleaned out as possible.
Good luck and let’s know how you go.

 

[shane_3800]

Thanks for your info.
10-40 oil is far too heavy/ thick for that engine. 5-30 is correct.
It does sound like thick oil and sludge clogging things up.
May I suggest getting it to your mechanic to drop the oil, perhaps do a flush that may help and fill with 5-30 and see what happens.
The sump and cam covers could be removed and as much sludge cleaned out as possible.
Good luck and let’s know how you go.

Engine flush just moves more sludge down to the sump.

 

[gossie]

And with a bit of luck Shane if some of it does dump into the sump then you dump that.

I hate to say this, but it is an old car now and who knows the history of oil and filter changes and correct oils being used.
A proper clean out may cost more than the car is worth.

The rattling noise OP is because oil is not being pumped up from the sump to the top more than likely because of things being blocked with sludge.

 

[Ginger Beer]

For a near on 300k km engine I would say that any semi or full synthetic 10w40 is fine.

I run 10w40 in my 125k km LS1, and I ran 10w40 in my RB25/30 and FA20 during summer, during winter I would drop my FA20 oil down to 5w30.

If it isn't mechanical and is indeed gummed up, I would throw in some engine flush and run it up for 20 minute, then drain, add new oil and filter and see how that works.

It might take a few goes at using a flushing additive to really clean out the engine though, people throw in additives containing teflon (PTFE) which work well in high pressure arareasbut can clog up low pressure/flow areas.

If a high mileage engine has had alot of PTFE added over the years it can clog up and leave alot of deposits.

 

[shane_3800]

I've had arguments with managers over engine flushing in these engines. It's a no go.
Once a manager said flush it and we did at my objection and all that happened was it lost oil pressure. That was after a timing chain job.
I said we should not do the timing chains because the engine needs a rebuild. Manager dissagreed and it came back 3 times under warranty and cost us more than a recondition.

Maybe more people should listen to the guy on the tools.