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Check Oil Notification on dash

gossie

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I do agree with you Shane, but perhaps a decent flush and correct thin oil just might save the OP doing a rebuild that will cost lots more.

If the flush fails to fix and blocks things up worse then at least you tried and a rebuild or change over engine.
 

Ginger Beer

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I've had arguments with managers over engine flushing in these engines. It's a no go.
Once a manager said flush it and we did at my objection and all that happened was it lost oil pressure. That was after a timing chain job.
I said we should not do the timing chains because the engine needs a rebuild. Manager dissagreed and it came back 3 times under warranty and cost us more than a recondition.

Maybe more people should listen to the guy on the tools.

Why is it a no go.

I've run oil flush additives for the first service in all old cars that I've picked up, I've never had an issue.
 

shane_3800

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Why is it a no go.

I've run oil flush additives for the first service in all old cars that I've picked up, I've never had an issue.

There has been too many low oil pressure issues over the years even before my time that most older mechanics agree it's too risky.
 

Ginger Beer

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I'm 55

All it has ever done for me is clean out gunk

Personally, I typically don't trust mechanics to do what is best for me and not their wallet.

Again, personal opinion
 

Fu Manchu

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I do an engine flush regularly.
 

gossie

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It’s rattling because oil is not being pumped from the sump to the top
of the engine because things are blocked up.
You need to either keep driving it until it seizes and stops working costing you a new engine or take it to your local mechanic to be diagnosed as most of us have suggested and then fixed as he/she suggests.
It won’t get better and I do wonder how long your engine has been rattling? Do tell please.
 

Ginger Beer

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Thanks for everyone's reply but I am just a tad lost on what I should be doing.

Mate, I would suggest finding a mate or relative that knows a bit about cars.

That way they can look and diagnose.

Questions on the internet can be tricky, it could be as simple as a loose wire to as bad as a broken oil pump.

Last point of call would be your local mechanic, who hopefully won't rob you blind, don't count on it though, especially if they tell you it needs a rebuild, unless you want to drop a ton of cash on a old car.

You could probably buy a new old car for less than what a mechanic would charge you for a drive in drive out rebuild.

If the engine is dead you need to weigh up your options.

A few to concider
1. Replace just the broken parts (Frought with danger if there are metal parts floating around)
2. Get a used engine from a wrecker put in (Unknown commodity)
3. Sell the car and cut your loses

The cost to fix the car can sometimes outweigh the cost of replacement

There are lots of typical cars for sale for a couple of grand.

Best of luck mate
 

wannaeatyourbrains

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Pickup is blocked. Go to the how-to, pull the sump off, clean it, put 5w 30 and keep changing it every 5000 the engine will pretty much clean itself. It takes about 3 hours to clean the pickup first time round. Only special tool you need is a wheel puller for the harmonic balancer. Get a new pick-up seal too.
 
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wannaeatyourbrains

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The bolt behind the harmonic balancer is one of the two short ones in the timing cover. I read some dudes don't even pull the harmonic balancer off, that loosening that bolt as far it goes is enough. Maybe someone else knows.

There are heaps of instructions on here to really easily and cheaply do this. Have a bit of a read. There's nothing to it. The seal is a ripoff at $20 and you need to buy a bit of toothpaste gasket. That's it.
 
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