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connecting amp to ve original radio

Discussion in 'Car Audio' started by t0m3kkk_ve, Dec 8, 2009.

  1. Luke0011

    Luke0011 Car Audio Installer

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    the white plug. Do yourself a favour and remove the glove box and the housing behind it and then un clip the white plug and look at it closely. it is a thin brown wire.
     
  2. cds

    cds New Member

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    I'll give it a crack tomorrow in the daylight w/o removing the glove box as I don't know how easy this is - it took me forever to dismantle the plastics on the driver side (was to scared to pull to hard, i didn't want to brake anything!) :rofl2:

    I presume there is no issue with connecting positive and ground directly to the battery is there, since its all in the boot life's easier or should I still ground the amp to an actual metal surface of the car - if so.. could you tell me why this is better/safer than directly to the battery?

    thanks for clarification though! :beer chug:
     
  3. Luke0011

    Luke0011 Car Audio Installer

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    As a general rule the earth cable should be as short as possible but considering the earth wire's length from your amp if you mount it passenger side behind back seats is only going to be 40cm to 60cm approximately then it won't make a difference as long as you use 4 gauge wire. Theres no safety issue with either method nor could it be argued by anyone that grounding it at a metal point or direct to the earth terminal is better than the other considering how close the battery is.
     
  4. boby

    boby New Member

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    hey guys
    has anyone had any trouble with the bluetooth after installing an amp and speakers, cos when my phone connects with the bluetooth it makes a loud thud noise regardless of the sterios volume, does anyone have any idea why?
    thanks in advanced
     
  5. cds

    cds New Member

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    Nevermind, found it ! :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2010
  6. cds

    cds New Member

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    So anyways... I used my old amp and sub - just built a new box to suite the VE and there it is... all wiring complete used a LOC from Jaycar cost me $17 - built own box only because I wanted this time to keep alot of room in the boot since I do use it often.

    It's 2am.. Its bedtime for work >_> - I'll get some carpet and stuff and neaten it up so it looks like its supposed to be their - I left a gap at the top only because if I ever decided to put rear speakers in the parcel shelf I could... but for now I might make it usable for a place where I can keep jumper cables & any handy stuff I may ever need.

    I intend to cover the left side with a window of some type and probably put a 2 fans in the top (1 for air in and 1 for air out) for when the window is in, may put some LED's in there too that only come on when the boots opened to make things look pretty (if i can ever be bothered).

    Again.. nothing special - just a days job (quick) and thought I'd share my results.
     

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  7. cds

    cds New Member

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    the person on the other end.. what does he/she hear when this happens?
     
  8. Luke0011

    Luke0011 Car Audio Installer

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    Well interesting problem and you havnt really given us any information to go on other than your stereo making a thump noise when your phone connects to bluetooth. Can you please tell me what system you have in the car, what car it is, did it get installed by yourself and how exactly is it wired. What bluetooth car kit it is. Im assuming you have the factory stereo? Its likely that the amp and sub have been wired incorrectly causing a fault. Is there anything else that seems abnormal???
     
  9. boby

    boby New Member

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    the amp used is the alpine (MRP-F300) 4 ch 50w x 4 and the typr r 6.5" splits (SPR-17S). the four channels are bridged to two and the gain is at normal the alpine amp has the high speaker in puts so i've used that with 12 gauge speaker cabling and 8 guage power and ground cables, the amp is located under the passenger seat and both power cables are about 1 meter long cos the battery is behind the passenger seat, and i've disconect the rubish dash speaker.
    the bluetooth used is the one holden offers, so it's the standard holden hands free
    now the thud noise only happens for a split second once you press connect on your phone and the h/u says voice in, it happens regardless of what volume the head unit is at. but the thud itself is always about the the same volume. and it's loud enough to make you jump.
    do you have any ideas??
    thanks agian mate
     
  10. Luke0011

    Luke0011 Car Audio Installer

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    On the amplifier what channells are bridged 1-2 and 3-4 or 1-3 and 2-4
    Exactly what wires did you use from the headunit to the amplifier. What car is it? VT - VE. You have answered about half my questions so its hard to point you in the right direction without knowing the facts. Im trying to eliminate possibilities. Does the blue tooth kit automatically connect to your phone or you have to press connect manually everytime you get in the car. What phone do you have. Does the bluetooth kit work as normal other than this thump???
     
  11. boby

    boby New Member

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    it's a ve 2009, ute using the factory head unit. from the harness i cut the front speaker outputs then sent that to the amp high input i tested to make shure that the wirers were infact the front left and right speakers, i can't exactly remember the colours now. the outputs from the amp are bridge 1-2 and 3-4, the ouput then goes to the cross over, the woofer output then goes to the wires at the harness which originally went to the speakers. the old tweeters are discinnected and the plug not used then the new tweeters are wired down form the dash to the crossover. yes the bluetooth connects automatically once you've done it the first time. yes the bluetooth works fine other then that thump, i have a samsung s8300 ultra touch but it does it with my mates nokia as well theirs nothing else that is abnormal other then that, sytem works fine and sounds awsume.
     
  12. Luke0011

    Luke0011 Car Audio Installer

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    so when connects automatically, does it make the thump or just when you press the connect button when you connect it manually???
     
  13. boby

    boby New Member

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    both thats why it gets frustrating
     
  14. dangergreen

    dangergreen New Member

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    Hi,
    Thanks for this pin diagram. Would you happen to know which pins holden are using to send the audio signal to the rear amp on the Calais V model? I've got a Calais V Sportwagon, which doesn't come with the rear amp / subs as per the sedan, but i thought there'd still be the pins available on my deck, to add an amplifier myself without needing to use an LOC. Any ideas? Cheers!
     
  15. aurora

    aurora New Member

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    can anyone help me with my amp install. Im not quite sure how to access the back of the headunit to wire in to the rear spkr outs. Ive got a ve sv6 ute and plan to run the speaker wires along the driver side of centre console. Just needing some help to get behind the plastics.. (where to pull, what to squeeze, what not to break :S)

    Pics n tips would be great.. or even a link to a previous thread but i couldn't find any after days of googleing

    Thanks everyone
     
  16. zr1

    zr1 New Member

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    Hi All,

    Newbie here to the forum and sorta new to modifying car audio, been reading for a while and have seen some great posts. Sorry to hijack the post but it seemed like a good post to pop this in. Had a VE SS for 3 years now and finally got sick of the stock sound. I’m not an audiophile but I do like my music. Anyway I spent a few hundred dollars on some Sony 4 ways to replace the front and rear door speakers, and disconnected the front centre speaker. I couldn't believe the difference it made to the sound, but now I’m hooked and want more. I want to install a sub and want to clarify if I can simply splice a 2 channel LOC into the rear speaker cables run the output of the LOC to a 4 channel amp, continue to run the rear doors speakers of 2 of the amp channels and then run a sub of the other channel. And how does the sub run off a channel on the amp, doesn’t a sub normally have a single RCA type output being a mono signal? Sorry if they are dumb questions, but as I said a newbie at modifying stereo’s
     
  17. holdenboy

    holdenboy Custom Car Stereo Systems

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    I'd be doing it this way:

    (sorry about the bad paint skills)
    [​IMG]

    Using either a 4ch LOC or two 2ch LOCs, getting their signals from the front and rear speaker outputs on the head-unit. Then power the front speakers off the front 2 channels of the amp.

    The sub is powered off the "bridged" outputs of the remaining 2 channels. This basically means you joining 2 channels into one, which normally is double the power (or more) than the single channel output power......this is ideal for subs. So yes, you connect the RCAs to the amp as normal then look at the writing for the outputs, where it says "rear speakers" (or ch 3+4), it should also have the + and - marking plus a "bridged + and -" marking. Use those to run to your subwoofer.


    Hope this helps.
     
  18. zr1

    zr1 New Member

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    Gday Holdenboy,

    thanks heaps, that's a huge help, but to clarify are you saying to run the font speakers and the sub through the amp, but the rear speakers just through the head unit. otherwise woudn't you need a total of 6 channls, i.e 2 fronts, 2 rears and the sub

    cheera mate
     
  19. holdenboy

    holdenboy Custom Car Stereo Systems

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    Yes thats correct. Youre far better off to use the 4ch to power the fronts and the sub. The rears can just continue to run off the head-unit, theyre mainly for rear seat passengers so a simple upgrade to co-axials is all thats needed (which youve done). Plus, if you ever decide to upgrade the fronts again to component speakers you'll already have the wiring / amp in place.
     
  20. zr1

    zr1 New Member

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    Ahh thats tops mate, thanks heaps for that, you've been a big help. Can't wait to get cracking on it.

    cheers
     

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