Corroded rims

[Skylarking]

On topic: try this > https://www.bunnings.com.au/clr-rea...59rNXG2jhpvOeP9v6ZMaAr0EEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

CLR has many great uses

Off topic, I was watching South Main Auto channel on YouTube where Eric O used CLR along with an electric pump to descale the radiator and cooling system of a car. Interestingly, he said a couple of gallons of the stuff cost a few dollars… Just highlights how much we are ripped off down under…

The relevant video for those interested

 

[panhead]

On topic: try this > https://www.bunnings.com.au/clr-rea...59rNXG2jhpvOeP9v6ZMaAr0EEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It doesn't work, in fact it had no impact at all, I have three 1 litre containers of it in my shed.

When I was looking for advice on restoring my alloy rocker covers, I actually soaked them in CLR for a few days without any improvement.

What it did do after an overnight soaking was remove the rust from the chrome wheel nuts and washers.

Plus, even if it did clean the staining, it can't repair the pitting that has occurred in the alloy, that can only be done by abrasion.




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[panhead]

That would have been a lot of work to go from a 120 to a 400 grid.
I know, because l used to be a metal polisher.

Earlier in the year l polished my bboss eleanor 19x8 rims.
Masked them up, then paint (clear) stripped them.

Then started with the sand paper. Started with 80 grid, then 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, last 800.
Then got my 4" grinder with a 60 mm extension on it.
Put close stitch mop on it. Mopped all the top surfaces of the wheel with tripoli. Then finished with green rouge.
Tripoli & green rouge are metal polishing compounds.

Your rims have come up well.

Many lifetimes ago I was a production manager who looked after a team of polishers, they polished metal for electro-plating and they were good fellows who taught me how to polish.

I've been doing it for years, have a range of compounds, a number of polishers, a truck load of attachments plus a linisher.

I have quite a few sets of polished alloy rims sitting around.

And yes, jumping from 120 to 400 did give my arms a workout, but that is all I had on hand and I drove up to my local Bunnings to find they had stuff all in stock.

Still, it was doable and I'm happy with the results so far.

The next stage when I get off my arse will be much easier, and while I'm at it I'm going to respray the inner barrels silver to give the job a pro-finish look.

Oh, and I should add, Imoengnr gave me some good initial advice to what the cause was and that helped me find a way to attack it.



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[RevNev]

This is how I wrap and store my rims

Yes, I do the same!

Here's one of mine half done and on the wheel face, I used a bit of soft foam for abrasion protection.

 

[panhead]

How much for a set of black HF20's ?

They would be way too expensive.

The value of having the factory original rims to go with the vehicle in 50 years time will be a big money spinner for my great grandson.





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[panhead]

Yes, I do the same!

Here's one of mine half done and on the wheel face, I used a bit of soft foam for abrasion protection.

It looks like some of us have had the same vision at some time in our lives.

I have some of that soft foam under the wrap of some of my rims as well, and some just have cardboard between each rim to act as a barrier.






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[RevNev]

I used 80 grit to remove the pitting which left some mighty scratching, I then progressed through 120, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 & 2000 grit.

That gets the surface nice and smooth so I can start machine polishing to bring back the mirror finish.

It's been a big pain in the bum.

The Forgestar wheels on my Redline Ute I bought raw unfinished to paint them locally in the right Hyper Silver effect. Rubbing the raw alloy down with 400 for the primer coat took me 8 hours per wheel + an absolute mongrel of a job. Then after the primer coat with a light guide coat, I wet rubbed them with 800 and that took 8 hours+ per wheel to get them ready for the base colour.

The painter told me to make a job like that viable in the shop, they'd need to charge around 8k all up if I didn't do the prep work myself. It's understandable given the mass amount of time jobs like this take in the rubbing down processes alone.

Here's one after wet rubbing the primer coat ready for base colour

Here's the best bit that made all the time and messing around worth it with a final clean up and wax!

 

[losh1971]

My spare Monaro rims are sandblasted and sitting on my shelves in the shed. I've never had issues with corrosion and they are not wrapped. Last lot sat primed for probably six months before I blew the base and clear over them.

 

[wetwork65]

My spare Monaro rims are sandblasted and sitting on my shelves in the shed. I've never had issues with corrosion and they are not wrapped. Last lot sat primed for probably six months before I blew the base and clear over them.

Maybe you are far enough away from salt mist from the sea? Or the air is drier, being a bit colder.
Everything around my house rusts and/or corrodes if not protected from the local air. Plus Sydney is a humid place.

 

[RevNev]

Maybe you are far enough away from salt mist from the sea? Or the air is drier, being a bit colder.
Everything around my house rusts and/or corrodes if not protected from the local air. Plus Sydney is a humid place.

My place in SA is 1.2km's from the ocean and we can have corrosion problems particularly with things left outside.