Do 18X8 VE Rims need spacers?

[godatfourdigital]

regardless, i know manny, (mine soon to be included), EH holdens tha have vn-vs borg warner diff fitted to the rear, with dragway rims. now the dragway rim has a somewhat universal center bore size larger then the hub size of my diff, so on my eh the rims are purly located and tightend on the studs. i know at least 5 EH's that have passed full engineering like this.

so really i don't know what the rules are.

 

[ssv 08 ute]

what your saying is that the ve rim center bore size is bigger then the pre ve rim bore size... not true, that is why the ve rims are machined larger to suit the pre ve cars. i can assure you that on my rims, the center bore is a nice snug fit.

Sorry about that.....could made it clearer i think.
Im actually talking about the wheel stud size...not the centre hole.
hope that makes it clearer

 

[justbad4you]

as already stated

VE studs are slightly fatter.

 

[MR.HG]

i still have the 245 45 18 on the back they are pretty good tyres, so ill leave them for a few months, they only jsut scrub not enough to worry about ill drive it nice...

looks nice just remember your speedo is a little bit out due to the bigger overall diameter, untill you go to the 235/40s that is

 

[justbad4you]

no worries at all..... have a good 1...........................cheers

No no no sorry. I meant, when I drop the rear tyres from 45 profile back to 40 profile it will look alittle different.

I have super lows front and back. With Monroes to suit.

I have no interest in dropping it any more. If anything I'd rather it up maybe 10mm all around. But I'm getting use to it as it is

 

[HSV126]

You have no idea about what your talking about. I just hope no one has taken your advice. The wheel studs are not there to take the weight of a rim.

just to clear something up, wheels don't rely on the studs nor the inner hub to hold the weight of the car, they rely on the tension of the nuts to keep them solid up against the boss of the hub.. its not good practice but many people including myself fit wheels with spacers, hub adapters etc.. these obviously don't require the center hubs for mounting but makes it difficult to ensure that the wheel is properly centered. I've used a die grinder many times on VE wheels, its no different to someone using a lathe, it all just comes down to technique..of coarse i keep a hub assy. with me to check the bore periodically BUT out of the 16 wheels I've had 'professionally' done, none of them where ever accurate to any degree, some where a lot tighter fit than others..

but as I always say in this industry, if you have to ask the question than your no qualified to do the job

 

[Immortality]

LOL, I would recommend that you find a new "professional outfit" then because using a die grinder is not a recognised method to ensure a correctly sized and located bore hole in anything! If I were to get anything machined I would expect it to meet certain tolerances and if it didn't it would go back to be done properly or go elsewhere and they would get the bill for the remedial work done.

Using a lathe isn't rocket science so boring a couple of mags should be piss easy for any reasonable machinist. Taking just a little care should see all the bores within spec easy enough. I could do it myself if only the throw in the lathe at work was big enough

And no it's not the tension in the nut, it's the tension in the stud which is achieved by tightening the nut (to stretch the fastener) that creates the friction required to prevent movement between the wheel and hub (or joint).

Great thread dig BTW, a well worthwhile post!

 

[HSV126]

LOL, I would recommend that you find a new "professional outfit" then because using a die grinder is not a recognized method to ensure a correctly sized and located bore hole in anything! If I were to get anything machined I would expect it to meet certain tolerances and if it didn't it would go back to be done properly or go elsewhere and they would get the bill for the remedial work done.

Using a lathe isn't rocket science so boring a couple of mags should be piss easy for any reasonable machinist. Taking just a little care should see all the bores within spec easy enough. I could do it myself if only the throw in the lathe at work was big enough

And no it's not the tension in the nut, it's the tension in the stud which is achieved by tightening the nut (to stretch the fastener) that creates the friction required to prevent movement between the wheel and hub (or joint).

Great thread dig BTW, a well worthwhile post!

Just so we're clear, I'm not commenting on whats right and wrong, legal or illegal, roadworthy or not..
simply put, there is no correct or recognized method for altering alloy wheels, it shouldn't be done period.. especially wheels that are designed for 14mm studs

but for those saying one methods better than the other then the other all I'm going to say is some people are better with tools than others and i agree i'm not going to get an even shave by hand, but i'm also saying who gives a #### when i achieve the same outcome?
When VE was first launched I had a set of WM caprice wheels sent to me from HSV, at that point in time NOBODY was fitting wheels to pre ve models, machining was $100 a wheel so we grabbed a new VZ hub off the shelf and went at it..

I also added than many of us don't even use the center of the hub to locate the wheel something that some people frown upon but also something that's been done for many many years, some of us that have owned VQ's and early IRS vehicles have made friends with hub adapters long ago..
.
All i read was this poor guy getting slammed for something that isn't any more un-roadworthy than what everyone else is suggesting anyway.. and the whole nut and stud thing is pretty piss poor of you considering they're one in the same; my point wasn't to hold a physics lesson to those who don't even know what a torque wrench looks like..

thanks for the entertainment, reminds me of the days when people used to tell me compressing springs is safer than cutting..

 

[vc commodore]

LOL, I would recommend that you find a new "professional outfit" then because using a die grinder is not a recognised method to ensure a correctly sized and located bore hole in anything! If I were to get anything machined I would expect it to meet certain tolerances and if it didn't it would go back to be done properly or go elsewhere and they would get the bill for the remedial work done.

Using a lathe isn't rocket science so boring a couple of mags should be piss easy for any reasonable machinist. Taking just a little care should see all the bores within spec easy enough. I could do it myself if only the throw in the lathe at work was big enough

!

Fair call, using a lathe isn't rocket science, but using a die grinder to machine out the centre not being recognised.....Seriously mate, there isn't much difference......If a wheel isn't centred properly on a lathe, it can still be stuffed up as badly as someone not being careful with a die grinder. It all comes back to the operator and how they use their equipment.

 

[Immortality]

The Holden Commodore is designed to use a hub centric wheel. So use it. There are examples of after market wheels that have failed and come off the vehicles because the wheel wasn't fitted using a the proper size hub ring.

You Aussies call us kiwi's dodgy and yet you 2 guys that seem to work in the trade are recommending the most dodgy of methods for something that is fundamental to a vehicle driving safely on the road.

Poor poor show period.

And BTW, a properly compressed spring is safer than a cut spring period. I have used a properly compressed spring that was then re-tempered, done correctly = 100% safe. Good enough to pass LVVTA certification here in NZ.

And I'm 100% correct on the fastener facts as well, I guess you should go back and learn some basic engineering principles/facts before you continue to try and give advice which at this point seems dubious at best.