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Done OIL change and now car has zero power and rattles on drivers side when pushing the pedal OMG !!!

chrisp

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I definitely like the idea of using diesel oil. My experience is that diesel oils definitely clean the engine better than regular oils, probably because they have more detergent in them.

However, I would have used it (instead of regular petrol/‘gas’ oil), along with very short oil change intervals, as it may have slowly cleaned the engine up without causing a blockage somewhere. But who knows, the same might have happened anyway?

If the engine does come good, it’d definitely be worthwhile cleaning out the PCV valve too.
 

DavesSV6Tonner

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Looking at that clogged oil filter cartridge I'm betting the filter gauzes in the cam actuators are clogged and need cleaning.
 

Fu Manchu

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Looking at that clogged oil filter cartridge I'm betting the filter gauzes in the cam actuators are clogged and need cleaning.
That. That would be an excellent thing to do.

Easy as for OP to do. Give the cam sensors a clean too. 10mm bolts on the front the engine. Come straight out.
 
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Fu Manchu

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I grabbed this from the most recent YouTube post by the All Terrain Action guys. It’s from their LY7 which has two cam sensors and two cam solenoid/actuators per side.
B17D6874-CC28-459E-9DB1-6E1F167261FA.jpeg


AF839235-DA7D-4CD6-8DEC-8C58645C037A.jpeg
 

degeneration

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That car needs a kero flush. Forget those super "cheap" gimmicks.

Your "mechanic" needs an engine flush...
 

stick3

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pull the a rocket covers off first that will give you a indication of how bad the sludge is and the timing chain need oil pressure for the tensioners and lube so if the feed hole is blocked that will be another problem

i think the mechanic knew this engine is on its last legs
 

Stelya

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@FuManchu ...suggestion with what to clean those cam sensors? Yellow arrows are cam sensors,right? Wherebouts are cam actuator gauzes (lol I really dont know what they are)
You said previously to change trans and diff oil.... I thought there is only transmission oil/fluid ? With lots of effort and without a jack of any kind and with car lifted on two bricks I changed transmission fluid and filter myself. I barely managed to fit myself beneath the car and do that job. I am proud of doing it myself . I know its a easy job when car is lifted properly but it was hell of a yoga to do it like this :D :D

Mechanic didnt know the engine was on its last legs because it wasnt. It was running fine. Disclaimer...my wife hit a stop sign pole before it went to mechanic but even with that little accident ENGINE WAS RUNNING FINE AND CAR WAS DRIVING FINE (who knows maybe exaust came undone somewhere..or something else...btw ,where does exaust connect with motor in engine bay? Id like to check that if I can, that sound irresistibly sounds like an issue with an exause but what causes such great loss of power is beyond me ) When stopped and I accelerate there is a small range in acceleration that does nothisng,basically car doesnt move so I always have to accelerate much more than before to get the car to start moving.
. Now its like handbrake is on, a tone weight is on top of the car and when i accelerate it sounds like there is no exaust/muffler .

anyways,,,when I put that diesel oil ,am I supposed to put right amount ...5 liters anbd drive it 1000kms and then drop and flush ?
 
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Immortality

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With the state of that filter I'd suggest a lot of oil was going through the bypass, when your mechanic ( I use that term loosely) used the engine flush it may have loosened off some chunks of gunk that then went through the pump, bypassed the filter and ended up blocking or partially blocking an oil gallery somewhere and the cause of the rattle you now have. Conversely, really old oil like that won't protect metal surfaces causing mechanical wear that is then taken up by carbon deposits from a lack of oil changes. A oil flush and new oil may not provide the oil film required after the flush cleaned out the old carbon.

I would suggest new filters and diesel oil instead of running more engine flush remedies as they may loosen of large chunks of all that gunk and end up blocking the oil pickup leading to oil starvation and catastrophic engine failure. Diesel oils contain a lot more detergents that will clean the motor over time.

I'm no religious man but a few Hail Mary's might be appropriate here.

There is no easy solution here. There was a thread many moons ago were there was a severe gunk problem were the user took off the timing cover and rocker covers as well as the sump and scrapped and cleaned the crap out of it. There is of course no guarantee that there isn't any mechanical damage already.

One thing to try is adding a bottle of Nulon Lifter Free. It's kinda like an engine flush but you leave it in until your next oil change. It may help clear any potential blockages in the oil galleries.
 

Ginger Beer

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Flush then diesel engline oil and new filter, and then change after 100 km, then flush and another Diesel engine oil and new filter, change after 100km

Then, flush and throw in petrol engine oil and new filter and hope for the best

From the look of that filter the engine oil has never been changed, every surface and gallery inside the engine will be covered in baked on schmutts

Removing it my bring some life back, or kill it

That oil filter....wow......:eek:
 

Stelya

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Will it be safe to drive with diesel oil? Also which diesel oil and I guess exact amount as I would put normal oil in? Could you point me in right direction ...I got some SuperCheapAuto vouchers I could use for that.
Thank you , I will report upon completion.
 
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