Ecotec auto to manual

[DevilDRake]

I Would have to say i have had both T5 and the Getrag 260 and personally i would go with the getrag they are much stronger you will also notice they used them in the VZ onwards, There is a catch to using the getrag box if you do break them they are costly to repair, and if you need to replace the clutch they are also a hefty price compared to the T5 gearbox but all in all i found the getrag a nicer smoother less hasle gearbox and they really perform.

By the time this post was made VZ's wouldn't of been out for too long.

Useless for the OP as it was 5 years ago

 

[ecotec_vg]

ok sorry to ask it again i have a vg ute series 1motor with a t5 5sp , long story short motor went boom and it was easier to get an VT ecotec than a buick v6. ive been told the t5 does bolt up to the ecotec with no problem. i have located a single mass flywheel to suit a VT ecotec, as i was said in the first thread u need the dowels to locate the flywheel on to the auto crank and the auto crank needs to be drilled out to suit the vt manual flywheel?

And does any1 no what clutch kit i need and also have heard that the clutch fork on the T5 hits the pressure plate is this true?

and last question, is there any other things i need to know or buy b4 setting out to do this conversion?

 

[holden300kw]

What about a manual engine? can you just use any 8 bolt flywheel straight onto the manual crank? or is balancing still an issue?

 

[OZ38]

What about a manual engine? can you just use any 8 bolt flywheel straight onto the manual crank? or is balancing still an issue?

Yes if it is a Ecotec V6 manual we are talking about. Then the 8 x 5/16" unc bolt V6 flywheel will be already a balance to suit the manual engine.

Cheers

Deek

 

[OZ38]

Drilling L67 Crank for Manual Dowel Pins

IF the flywheel you have has the dowel holes already in it.
Then:
Buy the correct dowels.
Buy new T5 crank to flywheel bolts.
Buy a new 1/8" drill bit.
Buy a new 5/16" drill bit.

Buy a Transfer Pin Punch set - Page Not Responding ... 0735697159

Bolt the flywheel up loosely at first, when all bolts are in the correct position (remember there is one offset bolt hole) find the centre of the hole size clearance on the bolt sides. Do this by rocking the flywheel back & forth, once in the centre lock the flywheel bolts up.

Use the correct size Transfer pin punch to mark the centre down the dowel hole of the flywheel, ( I used a 5/16" as I didn't have a 8mm punch).
Work out the total depth needed to be drilled for the dowels (don't over drill the depth cause you may find you have weakened the crank flange).
Use the new 1/8" drill as a pilot drill.
Follow up with the new 5/16" drill & drill to correct depth. Remember it is only a noddy iron crank so wont be hard to drill.
Note: The dowels are 8mm but if you use a 8mm drill it will always drill slightly oversize & your 8mm dowels will be loose in the holes. Using the slightly smaller 5/16" drill size will give the tight fit required.

The dowels have a taper/chamfer on one end, this goes into the crank first.

Get organised with a brass drift to hit the dowels with ( don't use a hammer straight onto a hardened dowel pin).

Blow the swarf / waste metal out of the new holes. Follow up with some CRC type lube down the hole, but don't create a puddle in the bottom of the holes (we don't want hydraulic lock when fitting the dowel pins).

Put the dowel pins in the freezer for about 15 minutes to half hour.

When ready, do one at a time, quickly. Insert the dowel straight out of the freezer into the hole and drive it in with a hammer & brass drift till level with the flywheel bolt flange thickness.

Another note: When drilling the holes in situ get a couple of friends with good eyes to eyeball the drill for square to the crank flange while you are doing it. It will be hard to fit all your heads in there, but you don't want to drill off at an angle.

Good luck.

Oh btw, some will say it is not necessary. It's your choice.

Cheers

Deek

 

[OZ38]

Drilling L67 Crank for Manual Dowel Pins

Oh btw,
It would help with possible vibrations to get the flywheel mirror balanced to your engines original flexplate.

There is a small difference in the balance between the n/a & L67's balance, or so the engine balancer people tell me, last time I got one done.

Cheers

Deek

 

[OZ38]

Drilling L67 Crank for Manual Dowel Pins

Part Number is 92116034 for the bronze spigot bush from GMH. List price is about $5.00

You can use the stock T5 bolts - GMH part number is 92060691. Remember to TTY with the OEM T5 bolts. If you get aftermarket bolts they must be 7/8" (22mm) in length.

Cheers

Deek

 

[OZ38]

Drilling L67 Crank for Manual Dowel Pins

HOW TO PICS & INSTRUCTIONS -


Get engine down off the engine stand & turn on to it's end.

Support on blocks so as crank is not touching the floor. Also level up block end so it is horizontal.

Seal any holes etc to prevent metal swarf getting into anywhere it shouldn't.

I have a Jig I used, but you can use the Dowel drilled Flywheel bolted down in CORRECT location. White Paint Mark is for aligning Offset Bolt hole. (Important to get that right)

Use a Transfer Pin Punch to locate hole centres - (Note: if using a Flywheel as a guide, a No.4 Lathe Centre Drill will work well as a starter guide drill.)

Work out the total depth you need to drill to locate the dowels at correct height protrution. (Note: Stock manual crank dowels protrude approximately 9 - 9.5 mm, pins are 24 mm in total length with a heavt chamfer on end that goes into the crank.)



I drilled for a total depth of 14.5 mm which includes the very point of the drill in that measurement. I ended up with about 9.2 mm protruding.

Using a 1/8" drill as a pilot. Remove & clear swarf from it often as you drill to prevent swarf build up binding the drill & possible break off (you really really don't want that). Keep checking you are drilling true & square to the crank flange. Mark drill with paint pen for start & finish depth.

Once pilot drill is completed. Drill using a new 5/16" drill to depth. Keep drill square & true at right angle to flange. Use the paint pen to mark start & finish depth on drill bit.

Holes drilled. Remove Flywheel or Jig. Put new Dowel Pins in a easy lock bag with a spray of CRC lube. Pop into freezer for about 20 - 30 mins. Get brass drift & heavy hammer ready.

When ready. Get pins out of freezer & tap into holes with heavy chamfer down into crank. Don't use the hammer direct onto the hardened pins, use a drift (softer metal). Drive all the way home before pins get time to warm up. Will be a snug fit.

Job almost done

Re-Locate Flywheel for dummy fit up.

Cheers

Deek

 

[holdonvntt]

does any one know of where the after market fly wheel can be brought from please ??? if some one was to make a plate where you could bolt to the crank with the fly wheel bolts with the marks all ready lined up where to drill the 5/16 8mm dowel holes it would be a easy way round the auto/engine swap

 

[chargedvx6]

It doesn't get much bloody better than OZ38s info there. Any ARP bolt of the correct spec will do the trick. It's mentioned in this thread above. You could even buy a stock bolt from Holden to thread check it and then search ARPs web site?