Head gasket

[jeff2023]

Im trying to keep cost down so was going to flip the heads and fill them up with brake cleaner to check for valve leaks.

Apart from the loosing coolant and misfire it still goes alright above 1500 rpm , so if it holds coolant and dont misfire once its done , not too fussed its just a beat up work ute haha

Whats the average time to do the gasket , 12 hours ?

Ill be doing it in a garage with no lift though

 

[Immortality]

Took me ages but I took the heads to a machine shop and went OCD on cleaning ****. Mine is also LPG so the exhaust valves/seats where beat up bad so I fitted new valves.

I'd lap the valves at a minimum if you have the tools to do the job.

I highly recommend degreasing the motor and especially around the intake manifold before starting the job.

If you have everything you need to do the job it could probably be done in a day, no need to lift the motor, I did it with it in the car.

 

[Having A Break]

Things to remember are:

Remove all head (and manifold) bolts in the reverse of installation sequence, ie working from the outside inwards.

Clean and chase threaded bolt holes in the block and heads (7/16 UNC for head bolts).

Holden (and GM) specify to use a 'turn angle' specification for tightening head bolts, which requires a Turn Angle Torque Wrench Adapter as this:
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/...MIh4je--aoggMVvSWDAx3mmAWYEAQYASABEgJW8fD_BwE

Clean head and block surfaces thorougly with a sharp blade and clean afterwards with thinner or white spirit. Cleanliness is your best friend.

Block and head surfaces must be flat, check with a straight edge.

Apply Loctite 242 to the 1st 10mm of fastener threads when installing (if the new bolts don't have sealer applied).

No sealer required on head gaskets.

Head bolt tightening sequence:View attachment 259831

The gaskets are identified L and R for left/right, or arrows pointing to front of engine.

The kit you have linked to is of reasonable quality, satisfactory for your purpose

 

[jeff2023]

Thanks for the replies appreciate it

Going to order the kit and try it.

I know this sounds really stupid , but you reckon i could get away with just doing the blown side , the other bank had even compression and no coolant on the plugs ?

Just doing this job in a underground car park and its gona be ****

 

[shane_3800]

I will say I'm a mechanic by trade, but I find on a car like that it's easier to pull the whole engine, using a two post..... That way you can see more and fix any other issues.
It's like two hours to remove the engine and it saves like three to four hours of time when it's on a stand.

But it's doable on the ground, My tip would be to buy a flex head 3/8th drive ratchet from Gearwrench, as an example, get one with a 150mm handle to get to all the exhaust bolts and spark plugs easier.
Action make a good set of thin wall 6 point/single hex sockets in 3/8th.

Also remember that all the accessories and mounting bolts are metric because that is all Holden but the GM part the actual engine is in imperial on some bolts.

 

[Having A Break]

You are doing the sh1tty side anyways.
You have the ABS Module, brake lines, brake booster and master cylinder all conspiring to work against you.
The LH side is a breeze by comparison.
You are buying a comprehensive 'kit' to do both sides.
The intake will be removed already (to do the offending side), the only other hurdle is to remove the LHS exhaust manifold, then all you need to do is remove the LH head.

If it was for a quick flip, get 1 head gasket, 8 bolts, a pair of intake gaskets, LIM gasket, end seals and re-use the rocker cover seal.

 

[Lex]

Just go the wreckers an get a low km engine. One thats got warranty.

 

[Immortality]

Down and dirty, no problem. It's up to you how far you pull it down.

You'll need to jack the car up so you can get underneath and loosen off the 2 bolts that hold the exhaust down pipe onto the cast exhaust manifold, with those 2 bolts loosed off the exhaust manifold should move far enough out of the way of the head bolts to not require pulling the whole cast manifold out.

 

[jeff2023]

So have ordered the kit and bolts,

I only have a metric sockets and stuff and the engine is imperial ?

Do i need a full imperial set of sockets and spanners or would i get away with just buying a few on there own ?

Thanks

 

[Immortality]

These Engines are a mix, the long block was assembled in the US but the intake manifold and other attachments were fitted in Aussie and use metric fasteners. Good fun.