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HELP! :( vt booster & master in a VS

kscpauly

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pls someone help me lol
im a noob about cars
but i just did the vt brake upgrade on my car vs ss
and my booster **** itself so i went out n bought the vt booster and master cylinder.
no mechanic i ask will fit it for me because theyve never done it or dunno how to modify it to fit the vs.

does anybody know how to do this how to fit it properly? or know anywhere i can take it to that wont charge through the roof?
im in melb western suburbs, st albans/keilor area

if someones done it b4 i dont mind paying u to do it for me i just need it done

cheers
 

stocky

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VT master bolts right up to the VS booster, unless you want the VT booster. if you do, youll need a bracket made up

edit just saw the broken booster part. still easier to go get a vs one
 

GTP 85

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I have done it.

You need to take the booster bracket off the VS booster. Then you redrill the holes in the VS bracket so that it accepts the VT booster. (suggest dummy fitting everything to determine where the holes need to be redrilled). having the master cyl dummy fitted to the booster while doing this ensures the master will sit up straight upright when its all bolted in. once this part is all done you will need to redrill the hole in the pushrod of the VT booster. If i remember correctly i had to redrill the hole 10mm closer to the booster. **Dont quote me on that though! probably worth doin a search just to be sure.**

then carefully screw in all the brake lines and bleed the system up

Hope this helps, good luck
 

immortality

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the other option is to make a spacer plate between the bracket and booster rather then drilling another hole in the pushrod. i think someone does make the spacer plates but can't remember who. there are other threads with the info
 

markovr

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Just did a bit of a write up how to prime/bleed the new cylinder when you install it without bleeding anything at the wheels in another forum..so Ill paste it up on this one....works for me.
Trial fit the brake lines after you fit the booster/mastercylinder ...front lines go to rear and rear to front on pre vs cars...vs's go to the same place...the vs and vt master cylinders even look the same but the vt one have bigger internals ...the flarenuts on the pipe ends are different sizes front to back so you cant make a mistake ... if you need to bend do it gently with hands and dont just grab and push ...make bend over a gentle arc and work back and forwards over a length until it fits up ..push up flarenuts to cylinder and do up with fingers..move pipe a little up/ down or side to side until the angle is perfect to do the nuts up with your fingers ...dont use tools to do this initally as you can easily cross thread them. After you have the lines trial fitted leave them fitted but only finger tight as the cylinder will now need bleeding to get all the air out. Fill up resevoir with fresh fluid and loosely fit up cap on reservoir ...it will bubble a bit as the fluid fills up the air space inside the cylinder ..leave it for a few minutes until it stops bubbling.
It bleeds up easy but you first have to prime the cylinder from the outlets at the cylinder ...do up the bottom front wheel pipe tight(if you dont have abs...some abs use a plug in this position) you dont need to touch this pipe again as all the priming /bleeding will be done from the top front wheel pipe outlet immediately above it ...Ok then take out the top line completely and put your finger loosely over cylinder outlet then with get a mate/girlfriend etc to push pedal gently to floor and hold it down ...you should feel air coming out as they do it and , the air inside the cylinder will be pushed out and then as you hold your finger tightly over outlet when he/she lets the pedal come back it will suck fresh fluid from the reservoir and you should see the level drop slightly ...next gentle push on pedal will probably squirt fluid and a few bubbles out so keep your finger and a rag over end so it doesnt go everywhere..it might take a couple of goes but basically you need it to be pumping fluid out ...fit up solid brake line and nip it up at the cylinder end you just primed...repeat for rear outlet and your all primed up ...then just undo the top front pipe again at the cylinder until the seal is broken ...dont touch the pedal ... fluid will run out in a stream and then do up again ..do the same for the rear pipe and most air space will be filled up with fluid ...any air will rise and sit at the top........at next pedal application you should have some sort of a pedal...bit long but enough to start bleeding. Get mate etc to apply pedal until the pedal stops and hold it there...undo top front flarenut just a little at cylinder again and the small amount of air will come out with the fluid and you will hear a sort of popping noise and see it as the air is expelled...the pedal will drop as you do this and when it hits floor keep it down and then nip up flarenut...repeat procedure until no air can be heard usually 2 to 3 times. Do the same for the rear wheels line. During procedure keep the fluid level up and try to minimise the fluid spilt on under bonnet stuff and hose everything off immediately when youre finished....maybe even run a hose over where the fluid will be spilt or strategically place wet rags where it is likely to run befrore starting procedure.
 
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