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How To: Changing Differential Oil (VZ)

GTR27

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Its seriously so easy to do, it would be worth seeing if you could get the oil in a 20L drum, and doing a group buy, all go to someones house, and change like 5-6 cars worth of diff oils, production line style. Good social gathering, and everyone wins by having cheap, quality diff oil replaced.
 

hazmat5765

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G'day everyone,
this is my first post,I've been checking on this forum for a while for help with our family cars. I thought I'd better register as this thread was very useful, and I could contribute.
We have an `05 VZ Commodore Exec,ex SA Police, Odyssey in colour, FE2 susp etc, etc. Still as we it bought from auctions in`07 with 51,000ks on except for a dashmat! Didn't see the need to change much as I love the stance that FE2 and 7 inch rims give it. Few issues with it incl. the LSD but Holden honoured the warranty on everything!
The car has now covered 140,000ks and the LSD was making a noise when initially reversing after a long journey so I check this thread to see what I can do. With help from you guys I changed the diff oil and put in Castrol SAF-XA. Instant improvement!
The old oil was black, but no shavings. The LSD was replaced under warranty at 60,000ks and I have never really given it a hard time since so hopefully we can get more use out of it.
Thanks again, Rob.
 

pbax

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Thanks for this post, was useful. It is a bit of a squeeze with the FE2 suspension but doable.
I couldn't get the filler nut loose so after searching online I sprayed it with some WD40 then put a breaker bar on the socket and positioned it horizontally, next put the car jack under the breaker bar and lift it -that was enough to crack it then could remove it by hand.
 

pbax

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Damn thats some serious effort to remove the nut!!! Should not be that tight

Yeah! I think I may have been the first person to undo it since it came from the factory? Or else the last person used an air gun or something.
 

PhilMeUp

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I maintain two taxis (both are 2008 BFIII Falcon wagons) and have recently decided that I’d better start paying some attention to the diff oil. Having changed the diff oil on both taxis this week, I figured that I’d better do the same with the personal car.

Before doing this, I took the car for a 15 minute drive to get the diff oil warmed up. When diff oil is cold it is very thick (ie much thicker than engine oil) and would take longer to come out when it’s cold. Plus, I was doing an engine oil change after this as well.

I started by reversing the ute up onto some ramps. I’m used to removing wheels, so it was quite a luxury to not stuff around with trolley jacks and axle stands. My driveway is also on a slight angle, so putting the ute on the ramps also had the added bonus of making the car level (required for re-filling the diff to the correct level).

Commodore_Diff_Oil_01_5_6_2014.jpg


There are very few tools required for this job. Because I’m doing the same tasks on Falcons all the time, I’ve bought a few tools that are a bit specialised.

Luckily, I already had the 30mm socket - that one is usually for motorbike rear axle nuts.

I bought the Sealey AK631915 15mm Double Ring Spanner via eBay UK a few months ago (do a search for that part number). With Falcons, the engine drain bolt and brake caliper bolts are 15mm head, and this 300mm long spanner gives me heaps more leverage than normal spanners. One end is a 15mm ratchet spanner and the other end is a 15mm ring spanner.

I bought the Ampro T29771 ratchet ages ago but never really took to it. Suddenly, I’ve started using it all the time. It’s a lot more bulky than my usual Sidchrome ratchet, but the way that it extends out gives me extra leverage. I bought that one via Amazon US, but local Ampro stockists should be able to get one in if you want one.

I got the Motive Products Power Fill 1740 a few weeks ago - Motive Products #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder. You pump pressure into it so that it pushes the oil through. I haven’t been changing transmission fluid or diff oil on the taxis here so I figured that it was time that I started to.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_02_5_6_2014.jpg


What’s under the car - it’s all very simple. With the BF Falcon wagons (ie live axle rear end), the ABS sensors and rotors are on the wheel ends of the axles, whereas on this Commodore ute they are at the diff end.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_03_5_6_2014.jpg


Naturally, I made sure that I could loosen the fill bolt (30mm) before touching the drain bolt (15mm). If you don’t have a 30mm socket then you could probably get away with using a crescent/adjustable spanner, but if you round it off then you’ll be paying a few dollars extra for a six=sided impact socket.

I removed the drain bolt and the old diff oil started coming out.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_04_5_6_2014.jpg


The fill bolt. It didn’t have any thread sealant on it (no big deal).

Commodore_Diff_Oil_05_5_6_2014.jpg


I went off to do some other things and left the oil draining for a while. I turned on the tap for the pressure bottle to help clear out a bit more of the old oil before putting the drain bolt back in.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_06_5_6_2014.jpg


A closeup of the old oil and new oil. There’s quite a difference in appearance.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_07_5_6_2014.jpg


Diff oil is very thick, and so it takes a long time to flow into the diff. I’ve used the leftover from what I put in the taxis - Penrite Gear Oil 85W-140 This is a mineral oil, but I’ll be replacing it with full synthetic oil next time - the mineral stuff will basically act as a flush. If I use Penrite again then it will most likely be Penrite Pro Gear 80W-140

I did an engine oil and filter change after this, so climbed out from under the car and got things ready for that while the diff oil was flowing in. I checked under the car every few minutes and got back under there once I saw the excess oil flowing out.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_08_5_6_2014.jpg


I put the fill bolt back in and made sure that both that one and the drain bolt were in reasonably tight. You can use a torque wrench for this if you want.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_09_5_6_2014.jpg


The old diff oil was very, very dirty. I’ve tipped the drain pan forward and then backward to see it against the yellow background of the drain pan. This is one reason why I prefer drain pans that are a lighter colour (or at least not black) - you get a better idea of the condition of the old oil.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_10_5_6_2014.jpg


The good news was that there weren’t any metal filings. The diffs in the BA and BF Falcons are crap, and wear out relatively early. Check out these photos from my taxi - the metal filings are from the internal gears wearing out.

BF_Falcon_Rear_Axle_Bearings_10_23_3_2014.jpg


BF_Falcon_Rear_Axle_Bearings_12_23_3_2014.jpg
 

sixes

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I kept my ute on the ground. This made it easy for all the oil to drain out. Jack up one side (with stand of course) and slide under.

A mate had some disgusting oil come out of his diff and wondered why it made funny noises. New diff for him at some stage soon!
 

Irukanji

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Go to toolmart, buy a 30mm socket. Only $22. Took me 45 minutes with an adjustable, and you'll need the 30mm for the Z-bar bolt on the front end(where it joins to the k-frame). So yeah. Also the Castrol bottles with the hose bit on the top are good for filling it back up, it's slightly flexible so you just sort of shove it up there and squeeze a few times. Flush it out, it'll be full of metal.

I changed the oil in mine and it went from a slightly annoying sound to a "HOLY #### THERE IS A UFO FOLLOWING ME" sound. Another weekend wasted, another weekend queued up to be spent on the car...one day I will be finished working on it, I promise.
 

ozNick

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Sorry for the dig (digging for oil).

Thanks for the instructions in the thread.

A couple of months ago I changed the diff oils on the wife's Adventra. I checked the specs and I needed SAE 80W—140, HN2040 spec oil. I bought 2.5 litres of Nulon gear oil that was SAE 85W—140, HN2040 compliant and changed the oil in both diffs plus a some Nulon G70 for good measure.

Just recently I was looking at the book again and it specified Synthetic SAE 80W—140 HN2040. I checked what I had used and it was Premium Mineral but still HN2040.

So is the fact the oil I used was HN2040 compliant mean it is fine, or do I consider the last change as a flush and get synthetic HN2040 and replace?

The Adventra does a fair bit of driving in hilly conditions but I do not tow with it, and does not have LSDs.


Thanks, Nick
 
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