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ok great. now i wonder why the factory has a computer controlled version? emissions i assume
Do you remove the line entirely or just unplug themOn the passenger side of you blower you will see a little plastic "tree" with 2 hoses coming from it. This is the "vacuum tree"
One of these hoses goes to the fuel reg. Dont touch that one. The other one curls back and heads down behind the motor into the boost solenoid. Unplug this hose from the boost tree and cap the open port on the tree.
Right near this is the bypass actuator for the blower. It has two chambers, top and bottom. On the back side of this on the lower half of the bypass valve will be a hose that runs back to the boost solenoid. Unplug that hose so that port on the bypass valve can breathe. Your done. Have a beer.
On the passenger side of you blower you will see a little plastic "tree" with 2 hoses coming from it. This is the "vacuum tree"
One of these hoses goes to the fuel reg. Dont touch that one. The other one curls back and heads down behind the motor into the boost solenoid. Unplug this hose from the boost tree and cap the open port on the tree.
Right near this is the bypass actuator for the blower. It has two chambers, top and bottom. On the back side of this on the lower half of the bypass valve will be a hose that runs back to the boost solenoid. Unplug that hose so that port on the bypass valve can breathe. Your done. Have a beer.
Temporarily disconnect the bypass valve solenoid (so it stays shut ) and take for a test drive. Don't forget to plug the vacuum pipe. It will drive a bit weird as the engine is trying to make boost all the time
Had the same question today lol, since they’re 20+ years old they start to leak which means less boost, bypassing it means it’ll create full boost all the time, only a good idea if you’re keeping an eye on tempsI know this is an old post but why do people bypass this valve?