Leaking Radiator

[zappaboy]

The TQ has already been replaced so the fluid state is unable to be checked. It would seem that is unlikely that the overheating issue would cause the TQ to fail more likely poor design or quality of component as it was leaking and had a very fine crack in the weld.

 

[zappaboy]

The TQ has already been replaced so the fluid state is unable to be checked. It would seem that is unlikely that the overheating issue would cause the TQ to fail more likely poor design or quality of component as it was leaking and had a very fine crack in the weld.

 

[Skylarking]

The TQ has already been replaced so the fluid state is unable to be checked. It would seem that is unlikely that the overheating issue would cause the TQ to fail more likely poor design or quality of component as it was leaking and had a very fine crack in the weld.

A latent manufacturing defect in other words

 

[zappaboy]

New radiator was installed and after inspection of the original radiator the issue was that the plastic part which attaches to the radiator hose at the bottom and which the bottom radiator hose connects to had failed and was leaking. I suspect that the radiator was OK and this plastic bit was all that was wrong. I have since been told most cars built in the last 10-15 years have radiators with a metal core and plastic top and bottoms.

 

[Ron Burgundy]

New radiator was installed and after inspection of the original radiator the issue was that the plastic part which attaches to the radiator hose at the bottom and which the bottom radiator hose connects to had failed and was leaking. I suspect that the radiator was OK and this plastic bit was all that was wrong. I have since been told most cars built in the last 10-15 years have radiators with a metal core and plastic top and bottoms.

Someone else had similar issue here not long ago. It was the o ring in that plastic part.

Did you buy any chance have OTR CAI ?

 

[J_D 2.0]

New radiator was installed and after inspection of the original radiator the issue was that the plastic part which attaches to the radiator hose at the bottom and which the bottom radiator hose connects to had failed and was leaking. I suspect that the radiator was OK and this plastic bit was all that was wrong. I have since been told most cars built in the last 10-15 years have radiators with a metal core and plastic top and bottoms.

Most if not all cars since fuel injection started being a thing (early 2000s) have plastic tanked radiators. They can be on borrowed time after about 150,000kms or so especially if the car is used for stop start city driving.

My SV6 is still on its original radiator after more than 320,000kms, probably as it mostly done highway driving whereas the radiator in the missus Subaru Tribeca failed after about 180,000kms (split the plastic end tank) because it was a city car before we bought it (car was from Toowong and all the services in the logbook were from Toowong)

 

[hademall]

Probably not relative, but I bought a new 1986 Ford Falcon XF station wagon. I discovered after about three months that it had a water leak. I took it back to Jefferson Fraud to be told by the service guy that I just needed to tighten the hoses with a screwdriver. Needless to say, I told him what to do with his screwdriver! There were no visible leaks after they pressure checked it (so they said) and so I was sent on my way begrudgingly.
It wasn’t until the car was out of warranty, (12 months back then) and I was tired of topping up the radiator that I took it to a radiator specialist, who pressure tested it properly only to discover a tiny hole in one of the fins. He explained to me that it would only leak by way of steam once the water was extremely hot, therefore you would never see any visible signs of a leak.
He also suggested that it could well have been a manufacturing fault. He put a new radiator in and it never leaked again, well not for the remaining six months that I had the car.

 

[zappaboy]

In hindsight I suspect the issue was just the o ring at the bottom connector at the radiator but at least I now have a new radiator and I know what to look out for on the VE ute and the MSE. The local mechanic who advised that it was the radiator that needed replacing, I suspect does not know commodores very well as he mostly repairs landcruisers and hiluxs as it is the country and he is a big fan of toyotas and rather critical of commodores in retrospect. I was able to drive the car down to his workshop 1km away compared with the Holden stealership 55kms away or other mechanics. The car would not have made into the "nearby" major town without overheating. By the car the car is mostly driven 90% B grade country roads ie 100-120km/h

 

[Ron Burgundy]

I just detected small damp area at the bottom of my radiator. I thought I could smell coolant. I was not going mad. It's at the bottom of the radiator on passenger side. No coolant missing but need to keep close eye on this. Will need new radiator by the looks of it...

Should last more than 6 years !

Genuine or aftermarket ?

 

[Ron Burgundy]

I will DIY this , just need to work out what the deal is with transmission lines.

They are easy to disconnect just need to work out if and how the atf fluid needs to be topped up