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Losh's VR Ute build thread

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. vc commodore

    vc commodore Well-Known Member

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    Gillman has the better quality parts....Majority are under cover, so less chance of getting damaged by the elements
     
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  2. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Gillman is out of the way for me but I may head there tomorrow, if I have time. As for damage I find at UPI the sun is the least cause of damaged parts, bloody rough arses that get in and hack away as quick as they can to get a part off causes the most problems.
     
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  3. vc commodore

    vc commodore Well-Known Member

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    If you do get a chance, ring DBR Holden dismantlers....They are located in Salisbury plains....He sells stuff cheap as and it's not crap.....

    Of course, time maybe your enemy.

    Another wrecker down your way is Auto Salvage Recyclers
    9 Chrysler Road Lonsdale (just round the cnr from U pull it)

    81860111....Might have some luck with him....I've bought some things from him in the past and his prices seem reasonable
     
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  4. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I only need a couple of things now, heater box and a headliner. I can get both in Tas, I'm just not 100% if the heater box they have is the same one as I have, as it is sitting in the back of a wagon already removed. I don't really even need a headliner as I can just use mine, but for same day fitment a spare would be ideal and get it recovered, ready to go in. I would have grabbed a heater box today but none of the cars I looked in had enough dash pulled out to make it a quick 20min job. I reckon I would have been inside a hot car, sun pelting down for a good 2hrs. I CBF in the heat today.
    What I may end up doing is taking a chance with the heater box that's already out as it certainly looks like the right one.
     
  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Here is a vid of the dyno run i had done today. As already mentioned I am sitting on 121kw, pretty happy with the results. May or may not happen this year but heads are next. I just need to save up a $1000 for the head work.

     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2020
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  6. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Ute is booked in for diff rebuild and 3.45s next week. I am also seriously considering having the heater core and evap replaced as well as the box repaired or replaced. I will be getting the rad tech to do the job. I just don't have the time and my work hours will be remaining full-time. Plus last core i replaced had the bus off the road for almost a week.
    It will be exi at 1000 bucks but the bloke doing the job will probably close down due to lack of work. Feel for the bloke. He is someone I'd hate to lose being just near work and every other bastard that does AC and rad work being quite exi. I'm in a reasonable financial position and would like to throw him a one week lifeline. Ute is not worth it but helping someone out is. Only thing this will mean is a delay on paying for the shed by maybe a month.
     
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  7. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    The strike plates on the tail gate of my VP had Ford stamped on them.
     
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  8. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Was it you Fu who told me to look at Ford ones as they are the same?
     
  9. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    Ya gonna do cam as well mate or just the heads?
     
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Think i will leave the cam. I have Mace rockers which work similar to a cam, not quite as good but still some decent gains. In hindsight i probably may have been better off with a cam in the first place as the chain needed doing straight after fitting 1.9s. But it was more expense and redoing work i had not long done like manifold gaskets. At the time I wasn't to know that the extra lift would cause the chain to rattle.
    The heads will still make a reasonable improvement i suspect because i can shaved the heads slightly and a freshen up will increase the comps. Then i can get some better valve shape and a minor port job. Not sure what gains i will get but might get 10-15kw.
    May end up being restricted by the intake at WOT is the only issue. This is what the dyno bloke said anyway. As it is I have a very slight restriction at WOT around max power. May need a bored TB and not just a V8 one.
     
  11. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    I remember a few years back I bought a 69mm throttle body from mace for my ecotec vs, do they not do something similar for the Buick?
     
  12. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah they do one around the same bore size. Only thing is i was told by some pretty knowledgeable JC members that even a stock V6 TB can handle some mild mods and not be restrictive. I might have to have a manifold ported slightly. I'd hate for that to choke the intake, once its all assembled.
     
  13. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    Better throttle response with the bigger throttle body even if it’s not a restriction
     
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  14. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I fitted a V8 TB and it helped throttle response. Although at WOT I haven't noticed a huge amount of difference. Light throttle is where I do notice its more perky.
    I need to figure out what is causing the restriction though before i put it together. If it's the manifold then I need to address it at the same time as the head work. If its the TB then that's a simple bolt on.
     
  15. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough mate I’d imagine some mild porting to the manifold smoothing out sharp turns cleaning up casting dags etc couldn’t hurt any
     
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  16. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that's what I'm thinking. I do have to be careful with the manifold porting as you can lose torque if you go too far. Then you end up needing to fit big torquey cam to compensate, same with porting, go too far and you sacrifice bottom end for top end.
     
  17. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    I know you like messing with the 6, but having head work done won’t get you a whole heap in the way of gains. You may be better off finding a v8 block for a longer term project to chip away at.

    Just a thought.
     
  18. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Any idea on what RWKW I will gain with fresh heads and some mod work? I have gained around 30rwkw with my bolt ons and rockers. Dynoed at 121kw.
     
  19. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I would like to oneday have a V8 but on this bus as a DD and work load carrying bus I will stick to the 6. As a DD its very good on petrol and with fresh heads and a bit better flow, with some shorter gears I reckon i can improve HP as well as improve economy a tad more.
    If and when I buy a factory V8 it will be as a project. That way i can do most of it myself and take as long as i need. Could even look at one someone else has already mostly done. Bit like the Caprice ute @vs-lover posted a week ago.
    I do like messing around with the V6 and am happy with how it is progressing. One thing I will never have with the 6 though is a decent note. I don't think there would be anything i can do to my Redback to make a note without sounding raspy like it used to.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020
  20. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    Just be aware if u mill your heads down too much you’ll have to mill your manifold down to match I ran into this problem with my old 304, got my heads milled down 60 thou with a thinner head gasket and there’s no way the inlet manifold would bolt up without major machining which cost more than the bloody head machining :eek:
     
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