Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Rb30e to Rb30et (Highcomp)

detox_nath83

Another VL Driver
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
2,160
Reaction score
6
Points
0
Age
40
Location
Queensland(Sunny Coast)
Members Ride
VL Turbo Commo
VlTurboRockerBreathertoOilCatchcan.jpg


the 2 barbs on the rocker cover are fed to the catch-can and then one hose(blue) from the catch can is fed to the PCV(Positive Crankcase Valve) valve on the plenum. so basically the can its just an inline filter so to speak.

(The catch-can i have is only a 2 port. so the 2 hoses from the rocker-cover are "T" Pieced into 1

Just so u know as well the hose from my cooler piping feeds the AAC valve (Auxiliary Air Control) this is Idle air control

As for the turbo drain just a oil/fuel safe hose man yeah with normal hose clamps(tridon/Repco) type as the drain is just gravity feed back to sump no pressure.

there are vids on you tube in how to rebuild a turbo.. straight forward man.. Nackerz did his one as well and was fine,

Actuator arm u need to be precise with the length as adjusting the length will change when it opens the flap.. (ppl shorten this rod to make more boost) without a boost controller.

did u try move it and check its length?

yes u can go with a 2.5 inch dump but would recommend a 3" to cat man as it will help the motor breath better and produce more power. and saves u spending more cash for a pipe to be made to 3" from 2.5 inch so u will be spending the money twice for a

dump pipe.

without intercooler man i would be carefull of pinging as the compressed air will be hot. expecially on a highcomp conversion.

As for intake put an air filter on man not mesh. mesh will not stop smaller debris getting in. and Fkn your motor over time.

If u run the 2.5 Zorst it will also be fine man. i did this for 6 months or so, with a 3" dump pipe to cat then 2.5 cat back with a 3" Turbo dump tip.


Dont worry about the questions man

thats what we r here for.

Goodluck man
 
Last edited:

cracker

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
961
Reaction score
8
Points
18
Age
36
rebuilding a turbo isnt that simple.
theres 100 reasons why it wont work and a chance it will.
if its leaking oil past the oil seal it means somethings worn out pretty much.
also whos too say the shaft doesnt need grinding and under size bearings, whos going to balance it?

best piece of advice i can give you is cut your loses and get rid of it, its obviously ####ed.

VL Turbo Conversion (eBay item 250738502287 end time 11-Dec-10 19:54:30 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

this is what you want.
above.
a nice standard vl t3 turbo or t3 highflow, be prepared too pay $300-$600 depending on if its a standard t3 or some type of highflow, t3 will be fine.
a nice standard inlet manifold, hunt down standard lines if you can find them, these again as the above just bolt up.
standard dump pipe once again it just bolts up, no crappy bits you have to invent.
as for the inlet small section of 90deg pipe and a fitting pod filter will be fine and dose.
id advise against running it without a cooler, kits can be found for $200-$300 not alot

save up do things right.
consider how much its going to cost to rebuild the turbo, then have it chop out the seal and burn oil again. thats another set of gaskets and it will just keep adding up because they are rubbish, also no other standard parts will fit more expense that you dont need.
750 - 1000 might sound like alot but its not if its over 1 year or so.

my set up set me back
$1250 odd
vl t3
standard manifold, dump pipe, water lines, return, braided feed ( couldnt find a standard one)
vl turbo inlet manifold.
no holes kit, made my self and 600x300 cooler.
turbo injectors, gapped the plugs down to 1.0
pod filter crappy bit of 2.5" pipe for "dose pipe"
also brought a pacemaker 3" front pipe and 3" catback.

ran great, left the standard ecu and pushing 7-8psi into it good times.

sure might sound like alot, but i brought things when they came up cheap and did it right and did it once.
never had an issue with it over 12-18months...apart from destorying two standard autos, 2nd gearburnouts are bad news for standard auto, lucky they are only $125 from a skyline wreckers near me

Heres how it sounded, for what it cost me, how it ran and the power it made easy the most fun iv had with it, give it a flogging have some fun and still able to stay on the right side of the law for the most part.

YouTube - vl commodore dose

and heres how it looked....should have been good for 140-150rwkw imo, 180-200rwkw with a fuel regulator too increase the fuel pressure at higher rpm to get alittle more out of the injectors, but not sure how much the standard n/a ecu would have liked it...plus the autos struggle anyway
 

cracker

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
961
Reaction score
8
Points
18
Age
36
picture....
 

Attachments

  • 23112008257.jpg
    23112008257.jpg
    110.5 KB · Views: 2,751

cracker

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
961
Reaction score
8
Points
18
Age
36
As for the AR.63 that means the Air Ratio of the wheel.

rebuild kit well a build kit for a T3/T4 but may be different u may have to go to a shop and show them so they can tell u... but rebuild it yourself as they will charge close to 1k and its a quite easy job.



depends on what damage is done, if it were a garrett turbo or something decent, with a leaky oil seal, no damage too the compressor wheel/turbine wheel and housings, i was quoted around $600-$700 from rotomaster in melbourne, brought a garrett t04 blew smoke, decided too go gt35 instead of persisting with it.

anyways break down was something as follows

undersize bearings
grind the shaft
new 360degree thrust
new center not worth bushing it for the oil seal
new front seal
all bead/sand blasted and balanced.

alot more then just a $80 bearing/seal kit.
 

IMCRZY

YO!
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
265
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Wollongong
Members Ride
88 VL Excutive Turbo, 00 VT Olympic Edition

M3ZZA

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
224
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
VIC
Members Ride
86 VL Turbo SL soon to be canary yellow bt1 mock
Its ok i am going to see if nackerz thinks its worth rebuilding. and see if he can rebuild it for me.

I also found a exhaust manifold and dump pipe for $100 i am picking up this weekend.
 

M3ZZA

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
224
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
VIC
Members Ride
86 VL Turbo SL soon to be canary yellow bt1 mock

M3ZZA

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
224
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
VIC
Members Ride
86 VL Turbo SL soon to be canary yellow bt1 mock
Just incase i cant get this turbo rebuilt has anyone on here have a t3 turbo ?

Is a rb20det or R33 skyline turbo different then a Vl turbo one and do they have it the same that its oil and water fed.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/nissan-r32-r...Accessories&hash=item3a61251a2c#ht_500wt_1156

And just in case i do go with a garret t3 vl turbocharger with the water line do you have to go the solid peice one or can you go a aftermarket braided kit that you see all over ebay.

I am already trying to hunt down the oil drain fitting and possibly the water feed fitting i already have a genuine vlt oil feed line and with the oil drain i am going with a oil/fuel safe hose and same with the water lines just incase i do go vlt complete kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Garrett-T3-T...Accessories&hash=item5192dae6f7#ht_2855wt_905

And if i did go with the T3 standard vlt turbo whats the highest boost they can safely handle roughly with out poping seals or killing it ?

And last but not least if i did go with just a standard vlt type kit and had a custom cross over pipe made would i need to have a catch can and if i placed the afm in the piping some how could i still dose on say 7psi and be heard like vl2dy4 ?

Sorry but i am just at the point where i am considering swapping it for a 8 or torching it i just want to be boosted already and i am over the f**k ups with the turbo's i have bought and yer my mrs is kinda skitzing it $$$ wise and thinks i should avoid going intercooled or 3 inch exhaust for atleast another 6 months or more.
 
Last edited:

detox_nath83

Another VL Driver
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
2,160
Reaction score
6
Points
0
Age
40
Location
Queensland(Sunny Coast)
Members Ride
VL Turbo Commo
still would recommend an inter-cooler man.. even though the standard vlt came out without 1, your motor is a highcomp convert..
Waterlines and so forth u can use any man but try source the vlt ones.The water return gets plumbed into your heater hose on the drivers side at the firewall just "T" piece it in
Oil u can go aftermarket or the steel solid type. its all up to u,,
get your exhaust dump pipe at 3" to your cat and then leave the exhaust as is man after cat untill u can aford the rest. engine will be restriced though. but be ok.
Basically do i properly though. it will dose regardless,, u are always gonna take your foot off the pedal and cause compressor surge(dose)
Catchcan is not a must, just stops excess blowby in your intake where it is routed to be burnt for epa compliance. without one will gum up your intake more instead of clean filtered gasses into your intake.

I have a small cooler here which came with my piping off ebay... ill take a pic soon.. i gotta go im flying to melb for sis wedding.
u can get an exhaust shop to bend up cooler piping but it wont be mandrel bent so u will have pinch marks and stretching
or u can source some mandrel bent donuts and cut them to the angles u want and weld them into your straight piping.
Also saves yourself spending $600 for a GKteck Even though they look fkn awesome.
 

M3ZZA

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
224
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
VIC
Members Ride
86 VL Turbo SL soon to be canary yellow bt1 mock
Sick so with water lines you can even use a oil/fuel safe hose for the feed and for the return.

Ok i think the dump pipe i am buying tommorow is a 3 inch one and i will just wait and go intercooled.

At the moment it has a 2.5 system on it. So on even 7 pound it should be safe.

and what do you think off that turbo should i rebuild it now that i know the brand and all or just go with a standard t3 because i cant afford a T3 highflow at the moment.

If i did go with a intercooler kit and go a whole bunch off bends like the universal 2.5 vlt piping on ebay and had a few proper bends made up and rest off it silicon joiners do you think that would be fine.

And whats the max boost you would recommend with the T3 turbo intercooled with say a 2.5 or 3 inch catback system with 15 degree's retarted timing and on premium or high octane.
 
Top