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Sandst4rm's VP Ute Resto Thread

Sandst4rm

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Figured I would start a thread to follow along with the ute if anybody is interested. Have seen others do the same so might as well.

Picked up for $1,300 delivered. 2023 so all the utes are now $3,000 for what should've been $600 in 2019 - this was a decent deal imo.
First thing was to get a bonnet and hinges since it didn't come with one.

Got one off a blue VP at eliz u-pull with a rust hole in the drivers side above the headlight.

Screenshot (2879).png


Next up was to jack it up and fix up the busted wiring; which I didn't take a picture of unfortunately.
During this i discovered a massive hole in the coolant reservoir which I replaced from rarespares. washer motor was blown so got that at the same time.
Alternator needed rewiring as it was not charging.

Screenshot (2882).png

Pictured: P/S pump out for reseal + relief valve swap (to VX commodore valve)

Having the car jacked up I ran it at 2,000rpm to see if the misfire it had was only at idle (it wasn't) - car shot out about 200ml of oil from somewhere...
Checked out the saturated K-frame and saw it was the oil pan gasket. K-frame drop to swap it - discovered all the sump plug bolts were in by hand only, i could literally take them all out with just my fingers. Do not have a pic of this.

Next up i dropped the K-frame as the shocks were f*cked along with the dust boots. DO NOT buy the recommended repco ones for a VN-VP, use the VS ones because the others don't come close to fitting.

Picture here is after i rebuilt the struts with new top mounts, my VT standard springs, new shocks (insert type) and new boots/bump stops.
You can see where i had to wirebrush the body.

Screenshot (2881).png


For some reason the driver side stub axle i have does not have the dust shield threads/holes but passenger does...

Finally i diagnosed the rough idle via compression test; Cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 were at 149psi dry - cylinder 1 was at 105psi, probably a cracked valve but idk.

Moved on to other things after this discovery - ill just drive it as is, it's whatever.
Redid the rubber fuel hoses and internal fuel pump strainer - redid the transmission cooler rubber lines.
Did an oil change and filter because i had to drop the pan and redo the sump gasket.

Screenshot (2883).png
Screenshot (2884).png


Picked up a pair of quarter trims for $100 and a new tray seal - stripped the drivers door to replace the seals.
Put a couple bits of foam in some electrical tape on the hatch stops to minimize the slamming back and forth - would be great to get some little rubber covers for those bits if anybody knows a place that sells them!

Spent a bit of time touching up stupid things that went wrong after 20 years and neglect.
Slightly trimmed up front guards near the door in order to properly line up the bodywork.
Picked up a new cover for the rad support and properly attached the radiator shroud.
Got a new tensioner pulley to stop the squeeling.

Screenshot (2885).png


Discovered that the hot/cold dial in the dash did SFA when turned, found the slide on the blend door was split in half.
Picked up one from u-pull and modified my wire/plastic arm attachment to stop it slipping like it was, now much stronger too!

Screenshot (2880).png


I've now almost finished the front suspension - new wheel bearings are waiting here for my new rotors; then they'll be fitted up.
Just started restoring the calipers tonight (7th April)

Screenshot (2878).png


Those tools in the picture are unrelated, i had em out for another job - I used the drill to wirebrush the calipers.
DON'T WORRY I didn't damage the bores or pistons.

That's where I'm up to so far, Please follow along if you're interested - no I am not lowering it cause I need an actual useful car lol.
 

Lex

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Figured I would start a thread to follow along with the ute if anybody is interested. Have seen others do the same so might as well.

Picked up for $1,300 delivered. 2023 so all the utes are now $3,000 for what should've been $600 in 2019 - this was a decent deal imo.
First thing was to get a bonnet and hinges since it didn't come with one.

Got one off a blue VP at eliz u-pull with a rust hole in the drivers side above the headlight.

View attachment 250226

Next up was to jack it up and fix up the busted wiring; which I didn't take a picture of unfortunately.
During this i discovered a massive hole in the coolant reservoir which I replaced from rarespares. washer motor was blown so got that at the same time.
Alternator needed rewiring as it was not charging.

View attachment 250227
Pictured: P/S pump out for reseal + relief valve swap (to VX commodore valve)

Having the car jacked up I ran it at 2,000rpm to see if the misfire it had was only at idle (it wasn't) - car shot out about 200ml of oil from somewhere...
Checked out the saturated K-frame and saw it was the oil pan gasket. K-frame drop to swap it - discovered all the sump plug bolts were in by hand only, i could literally take them all out with just my fingers. Do not have a pic of this.

Next up i dropped the K-frame as the shocks were f*cked along with the dust boots. DO NOT buy the recommended repco ones for a VN-VP, use the VS ones because the others don't come close to fitting.

Picture here is after i rebuilt the struts with new top mounts, my VT standard springs, new shocks (insert type) and new boots/bump stops.
You can see where i had to wirebrush the body.

View attachment 250228

For some reason the driver side stub axle i have does not have the dust shield threads/holes but passenger does...

Finally i diagnosed the rough idle via compression test; Cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 were at 149psi dry - cylinder 1 was at 105psi, probably a cracked valve but idk.

Moved on to other things after this discovery - ill just drive it as is, it's whatever.
Redid the rubber fuel hoses and internal fuel pump strainer - redid the transmission cooler rubber lines.
Did an oil change and filter because i had to drop the pan and redo the sump gasket.

View attachment 250230View attachment 250231

Picked up a pair of quarter trims for $100 and a new tray seal - stripped the drivers door to replace the seals.
Put a couple bits of foam in some electrical tape on the hatch stops to minimize the slamming back and forth - would be great to get some little rubber covers for those bits if anybody knows a place that sells them!

Spent a bit of time touching up stupid things that went wrong after 20 years and neglect.
Slightly trimmed up front guards near the door in order to properly line up the bodywork.
Picked up a new cover for the rad support and properly attached the radiator shroud.
Got a new tensioner pulley to stop the squeeling.

View attachment 250232

Discovered that the hot/cold dial in the dash did SFA when turned, found the slide on the blend door was split in half.
Picked up one from u-pull and modified my wire/plastic arm attachment to stop it slipping like it was, now much stronger too!

View attachment 250233

I've now almost finished the front suspension - new wheel bearings are waiting here for my new rotors; then they'll be fitted up.
Just started restoring the calipers tonight (7th April)

View attachment 250234

Those tools in the picture are unrelated, i had em out for another job - I used the drill to wirebrush the calipers.
DON'T WORRY I didn't damage the bores or pistons.

That's where I'm up to so far, Please follow along if you're interested - no I am not lowering it cause I need an actual useful car lol.
What kit you using to rebuild the calipers?

I'll be watching your build!
Keep at it! :cool:
 

Sandst4rm

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What kit you using to rebuild the calipers?

I'll be watching your build!
Keep at it! :cool:
I'm getting the seals off KingswoodCountry / RestoCountry online - Basically its just rarespares but rebranded - they got some parts for $20 or so cheaper than rarespares.

I'm not getting new pistons cause mine are pretty decent, one rear is pretty rusted on the inner bore (like the bit you see on the outside - behind the pad that's a cup) but I dunno i reckon it's OK.

RestoCountry have things in pairs as 1 item instead of having to select 2 on rarespares so its a bit easier.
 

gtrboyy

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Thinking your valuation of vp utes is off dude....I paid $900 for running/registered vp v6/t5 ute with 3 months rego & yeah it was run down with every issue of a vn/p of that era.

To this day still think I paid $800 too much or maybe owner should have paid me to take :D

Unfortunately I ended up liking the the ugly duckling vp....thought if bought it even I wouldn't modify it...wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tbh didn't think there are any vp utes still in existence
 

J_D 2.0

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Fu Manchu

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I miss my VP ute.
 

Sandst4rm

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Update!

I have finished rebuilding the calipers (seals finally arrived) - though i still need to get new bleed screws.

Screenshot (2894).png


Obviously they haven't gone through acid or anything so they're still a bit dirty but they are clean enough to work like factory.
I have 2 different rear holders because i got one back caliper off a VR with IRS rear but the calipers themselves are the same.

At some point before i did the calipers (today); I sourced a u-pull variable steering rack to replace mine (steel lines crushed)
from a VN calais.
Got that setup the other day with new P/S return hose and o-rings (original high pressure hose)
Resealed the back of the pump + pressure plate o-ring inside - didn't touch the bearing or front seal which i probably should've because the pulley has about 1cm of in/out play but it doesn't leak so...

Seems like the fluid isn't too clean after the bleed so might flush it once.

Screenshot (2898).png


Also i checked out the water pump after getting a new gasket to be safe - it seems to be in solid condition considering its been running on rust coloured water only for f**k knows how long.

Screenshot (2896).png
Screenshot (2897).png


And that's about it from last time.
I'm still waiting on my new front rotors and inner tie rods / rack ends.

Should be here next week apparently.
 

J_D 2.0

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Also i checked out the water pump after getting a new gasket to be safe - it seems to be in solid condition considering its been running on rust coloured water only for f**k knows how long.
Might be worth replacing the pump if it’s been running on rust. The coolant helps lubricate the seals and if it’s been severely contaminated or running on water then the seals are likely to have been worn down from it.
 

MikeC

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For the variable ratio to work on the steering rack you'll need the solenoid wiring connections to the BCM and a variable ratio steering pump. If you haven't got the wiring the rack will divert to high speed (high effort) mode.
 

Sandst4rm

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For the variable ratio to work on the steering rack you'll need the solenoid wiring connections to the BCM and a variable ratio steering pump. If you haven't got the wiring the rack will divert to high speed (high effort) mode.
I am well aware of it reverting to high effort because my VT calais does it, the wires ripped out when engine swapping at the solenoid end so i cant fix em.

However, on a VN calais it does not feature electronic variable effort like the VT racks do - also the pump for both is no different to the other; as i found when replacing my VT stuff.

The VN calais has a physical variable ratio by which i mean the teeth on the rack are actually variable in pitch.
 
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