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Sandst4rm's VP Ute Resto Thread

91SS

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When replacing speedo cog use gear that is 1 piece (unlike 2 piece that fits one on top of the other and lasts about 15k).

Had a quick look on ebay, couldn't find them today but they are there somewhere, from memory black in colour, otherwise try an instrument place. The 2 piece cogs become like chewing gum very quickly.......avoid them.

I always remove cluster without removing wheel and definitely always work from back and clean any old broken cogs.

And while you've got the cluster out resolder cluster power supply pins which develop dry joints and cause intermittent non working fuel and temperature gauge.
 
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NORTI

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^^ drill hole through perspex for 2nd screw it becomes 5-10min job & dont have to touch speedo needle or face.

Mine lasted 5 years but noticed odometer....never push reset if car moving.

Reckon vp dash has nicest instruments from vn to vs just because of the blue on small increments lol
I have not needed the hole in any of the ones I have repaired. But I have seen the hole method mentioned before.
I think because I use a small fine tool set for cluster repairs that I can get in there without drilling. I have never needed to remove the needle.
I do remove the entire middle section from the cluster but I am super careful no to get fingerprints on it at all. You can see the oils left behind if people don't take care.

The no pushing while moving is what I say to every single person I repair a cluster for. Easiest way to bust those teeth.
 

gtrboyy

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Probably get to it with very fine tool kit like you have or short right angled like an allen key if such a thing existed.

I'm never prepared & usually spur of moment fix when asked to do a dash job hence learned how to do drill trick to save time & putting finger prints on cluster face.

Only thing I'll add is make sure no broken bits left in there & turn gears over to double-check that odometer is working properly before putting it all back together.

I'll have to fix mine again but hate how brittle plastic vp dashes are that always ends up with an extra crack or broken piece.
 

Sandst4rm

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Update.

I have "gotten into the cluster" today on the exec one and the berlina one, I took off the needles and didnt break anything.

I read on here that the voltage regulator gets dry solders and that causes the dashboard to need slapping, so I resoldered the one in the berlina cluster and took this one out of the original one as a spare in case I fucked it up; but it works well! at least for fuel.
Anyone know how i can test the tacho, speedo and temp gauge without the motor or trans in?

I removed the odo from both to check the gears, the berlina one is actually fully intact! the exec one that was stuck is, as expected; broken on the tiny brown cog (smallest one).
Carefully ''adjusted'' the "numbers" on the odo to 'whatever the circular one is' on all 6 rollers yay fun!

Put cluster back together and back into car and lost a screw i used for the shroud dammit, somewhere rolling around the carpet inside the car now!
Cant find it either!

Pictured: broken odo and spare circuit board.

Screenshot (3579).png


I tried to press the pistons and rods together myself and I fucked up one of them by 0.002 inch so now I have bought a SECOND set of pistons and am having a shop do the fitting for me.

Not sure if anyone wants 5 pistons 040 oversize 3.839'' bore and 1 piston 040 oversize 3.841'' bore (out of round) as i will sell them 70 bucks or something for sprint car idk.
 

Sandst4rm

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Update, I have received the new odo gear and repaired the unit.

While the cluster was out I did an LED conversion (white) on the 4x T10 globes and all the little B8.5 T5 globes in the bottom.
Changed out the interior light for a diffused LED globe and the 2x T5 globes in the climate controller for led too.

Screenshot (3653).png


Bit of a cooler blue light for the blue interior rather than the yellowy incandescent.
Cluster is all working now yay!

Screenshot (3652).png



Update to the plans made a couple months back / a couple replies back;

Definate other parts are;

Probably going to need to do something with the ECU don't know this will be my first modified engine instead of just factory rebuild.
?? Not yet, dont think ill need to until i buy the supercharger

New timing chain and gears. Ordered.
New roller lifters. (maybe new cam we will see the spec when its taken out) Ordered and cam was fine so reusing it.
New pushrods. Ordered.
1.7 ratio yella terra roller rockers. - Still coming...
New conrods hopefully come with new pins and ARP bolts. Done and fitted.
New pistons. Done.
New rings. Done.
New spark plugs.
All possible seals.
All sensors i haven't done already.
ARP head studs will see if they have them for S1 buick but I think they share the same on S1-S2 VN to VR. Ordered
Double valve springs with new stem seals in case. (cheap) Ordered
Needs a new harmonic balancer the old one is split all round but not broken yet. Done
New starter motor.
New steering pump. (noisy)
New VN look alternator (exposed fan) and keep the old as a spare.
New belt tensioner and belt.
New injectors or reseal my injectors, depends.
Oil pump rebuild.
Diff is noisy so need bearings, maybe crown gear and pinion, maybe harrop truetrac. Truetrac acquired, not fitted yet.
Front and rear bushes with superpro + castor and repaint all arms.
Headliner redone Done.
New brake hoses front and rear Done with new hardlines on the way.
Tailgate striker plates.
New valve spring retainers Ordered.
Annoyingly rare little bonnet stay rod holder clip, not the one it rotates inside of. Done, Rarespares.

Aero style rear bar and sideskirt kit.
SV5000/Maloo front bar OR roo bar/bullbar.

Ambitious parts are:

Get fastener shop to look at replacing my normal timing cover bolts that are corroded around the water pump and such.
Turbo exhaust manifolds... Going self-contained centrifugal supercharger
New brake master cylinder with different style reservoir. Just gonna use a new VL VN VP one from rarespares
Reseal brake booster. ? maybe wont bother...
Wiper plenum plastic cover.
Guard rock shields inside plenum.
Seats reupholstered in grey suede center with cerulean sides and embossed VN holden lion. - Still planning on it but with blue not grey
Grey suede doorcard inserts with holden lion. Done but in blue fabric not grey.
Cerulean redone on door trims. (might need new trims mine are pretty crap) Done myself, Did not need new trims.
New dash? mine is fine but glovebox lower mount holes are both snapped off. Fit amp in glovebox so no need to fix.
New carpet. Done
Level 2 cluster with rev gauge. hopefully with green lines on range VN style. Done, VP style faces.
Fix odometer and reset to 0 for new motor. Done.
Add new dashboard speakers and sub behind seats cut into wall. (shield inside tray to seal it back up with bolted cover) Too much effort im happy with the current sound.
Port cylinder heads. Dont think this will be needed.
LOCATE AN INTERIOR LIGHT LENS (impossible) Done.

locate a column shift VN VP steering column lower cover Done
I have attempted to fabricate one from a VS lower column cover but even though it looks perfect to the VN one it does not have any interest in fitting when i try to install it.

Already done;

2.5 inch full exhaust pacemaker headers.
Reinstall bench seat. Have swapped back to the VS stato buckets.
New seatbelts.
Resprayed engine bay and bonnet.
Make radiator fan work.
Make alternator charge.
New radiator.
New specific knock sensor.
New rear intake coolant outlet. (brass)
SH S2 intake manifold.
Reconditioned calipers (290mm front) by myself.
New tailgate limiter straps.
New clear front grill.
New clear side indicators.
New steering wheel.
New steering rack, rack ends and tie rod ends.
New front arm ball joints.
New rear axle bearings and seals.
New coolant hose kit.
New 2 way heater tape.
New fuel line at tank.
New fuel pump strainer.
Mint SH tray corners.
Driver's side outside quarter window trim.
New sway bar bushes and link bushes front.
New exhaust hangers.
New NGK coils.
New ignition leads.
SH DFI (2 spares) - considering new one because of rebuild.
New sound system.
Repaired wiper linkage no more play.
New blades bosch flexible.
New windscreen.
SH bonnet no bend in middle.
Installed rubber bonnet stop on radiator support to counter typical VN bonnet sideways tilt.
Rust control.
Door seals and bailey channels.
Bonnet plenum seal.
Tailgate seal.
Bumper dodgy reattachment because factory bits broken.
New tyres on my VT calais S1 mags.
New overflow and washer tank reservoir + washer motor.
Locking fuel cap.
Kill switch.
Battery tray replacement mod.
Crankshaft ground 030 undersize

New white steel rims 16x7 - 5x120 - 67.5mm CB +25 O.
Ordered HDT VP headlight covers.
New Welch plugs.
Block bored and surfaced - 040 OS bore ACL bearings throughout. Keeping balance shaft.
Sump repaired from dent i caused.
Painted sump and heads.
Waiting on lazy auspost to deliver Cometic Viton rear main seal before i can paint the block/fit the crank.
Bearings clearanced with flexigauge.
New cam bearings installed not sure what brand, machine shop did them.
ARP Main studs ordered.
 
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gtrboyy

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Hit up Vlad from pcmhacking for a tune or if you cant get in contact pm then I'll give you his name on facebook....he is on club vn vp page.

Loves his buicks & heaps of helpful info...also check out his crazy build thread over there.

Did my memcal tune for vp ute when it was v6.
 

Sandst4rm

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Small update, obtained the standard front snorkel for the airbox today not the CAI one, also an intake tube with thread intact that mounts by the passenger strut tower.

Did a little sketch to personalize it lmk what you think. :)

Screenshot_20240420_210750_Discord~2.jpg
 
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