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Stance project VE SSV (help & input required please)

brasher

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Series 2's front guards are actually rolled to perfection from the factory, saved me some coin.

I get what you are saying ducker, just the whole "scene" is flooded with gronks that actually make their cars totally unsafe for a certain look. Like a badge of honour the more sketchy it is.

The setups we have suggested however all fall under the reasonable umbrella and wont make it a rolling deathtrap hopefully lol
 

ducker85

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The setups we have suggested however all fall under the reasonable umbrella and wont make it a rolling deathtrap hopefully lol

Did you ever see that silver Celica getting around? When he dropped it off to get his work done the mechanic pulled off around 40mm+ of slip on and bolt on spacers and had a napkin drawing to work off!!! Death trap!!

Everything suggested above will be tastefully and fit without major work.
 

Grennan

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I think 10" +20 would be the absolute maximum youd want to go. That will require some aggressive guard rolling, but should still be fine as long as you ran a 255 and some camber.

With that being said. There is definitely NOT 15mm left of gap in my guard with my +35s as they current sit, but once the coilovers go in ill be able to tell what I can and cannot fit with a little more accuracy.

Im glad this thread has come up, its somthing I want to make a sticky in this section about but im waiting for ^^
 

JNew

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Thanks very much guys, you seem to be very knowledgable on the topic. So after considering all your feedback I have sort of narrowed it down to the following. 20x10 +20 and run 245/35 all round. Would you guys run this front and rear, or if you had the option say of having any combo custom made, would you go for a staggered setup? Say something like a 20x9 +20 front and a 20x10.5 + 30 rear?

Ride height doesn't bother me. I'm not fussed if I can't go somewhere because there is obsticles in the road. I won't be pushing the camber any more than factory adjustment of -2 anyway. And I will be running the coilovers near the bottom of the adjustment. I think the fronts are wound right down at present anyway and the rears have about 30mm before they run out of adjustment. Ride height on the 20" supersports was about 650mm ground to guard rear and 680mm ground to guard front.
 
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JNew

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I think 10" +20 would be the absolute maximum youd want to go. That will require some aggressive guard rolling, but should still be fine as long as you ran a 255 and some camber.

With that being said. There is definitely NOT 15mm left of gap in my guard with my +35s as they current sit, but once the coilovers go in ill be able to tell what I can and cannot fit with a little more accuracy.

Im glad this thread has come up, its somthing I want to make a sticky in this section about but im waiting for ^^

What coil overs are you going to get?
 

JNew

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I would choose either 19x9.5s 235/40R19 with 20P OR the 20x10s 245/35R20 with 20P offset.

You said agressive so that's where it's at and it's still not a lot of work and they'll still (just) be in the gaurds.

Work wise it's -2 camber front and and guard roll on the rear only and maximum factory camber adjustment (I asume you'll be quite low)

For examples of these fitments see Potta's R8 with 9.5s 22P or the a silver G8 (now aqua dipped) with 10s in 20P.

Also the tyres sizes I have mentioned are on the very tame side of stretch so don't stress about that

You reckon 20x10 +20 running a 245 35 front and rear would be ok, I like a bit of stretch but not so much is dangerous and debeads, would a 235 work? Wouldn't the front poke more than the rear or vice versa? Also with BBS LM and other 'dished' wheels, isn't the lower the offest value the bigger the dish, or is this a falacy?
 

JNew

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I think 10" +20 would be the absolute maximum youd want to go. That will require some aggressive guard rolling, but should still be fine as long as you ran a 255 and some camber.

With that being said. There is definitely NOT 15mm left of gap in my guard with my +35s as they current sit, but once the coilovers go in ill be able to tell what I can and cannot fit with a little more accuracy.

Im glad this thread has come up, its somthing I want to make a sticky in this section about but im waiting for ^^

What we need to do a make up a matrix, utilizing the online wheel and tyre fitment tool for offset and clearance values etc and tyre sizes. Can put up here for if you want to sticky this thread that will help others just starting out down this project path. I'll have a play with what it might look like over the weekend and post for feedback? The other thing, is that when I started out I found it quite hard to vizulize what I wanted, but once I made this thread and had you guys as a support base I have started to understand it a lot better and gain clarity. For example, I knew what I wanted in my head, but struggled to find examples of actualization of what I was thinking and if it was possible. Would also probably help reduce the number of dumbarse threads like mine asking for help haha.
 

Benboy

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Be aware that there is a legal limit as to the track of any vehicle. The 'track' is defined as that distance from centre of tyre across to centre of other tyre (i.e. left to right or right to left). If you increase the off-set then you will likely also increase the track width. Authorities will be right onto you as it will be so obvious once spotted. You will then most probably have your vehicle inspected front to back and side to side. Be prepared for defects. Good luck. p.s. such legalities only apply for vehicles used on-road.
 

ducker85

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You reckon 20x10 +20 running a 245 35 front and rear would be ok, I like a bit of stretch but not so much is dangerous and debeads, would a 235 work? Wouldn't the front poke more than the rear or vice versa? Also with BBS LM and other 'dished' wheels, isn't the lower the offest value the bigger the dish, or is this a falacy?

I would stay with either 9.5 20P or 10 wide with 20P nothing narrower then a 9.5 and yes 10s fit the front easy. A 235 on a 9.5 is barely stretched and a 245 on a 10 is the same and where I think is very safe compared to JDM and USDM cars that I've seen (I have seen a 155 on a 9.5!)

Lower offset should allow more dish but that depends on casting etc. Simmons for example do all their lips in 1/2 inches so there's around 12mm in offset that will be machined off the centre rather then take millimetres off the inner and outta lips

245 on a 9.5

56636C46-3C5B-4BD0-8686-69832FCE008E-438-00000071E1682E32_zps42f9d06e.jpg


245 on a 9.5 with 20P offset -2 camber (factory adjustment). NO gaurd roll and it (just) sits in. A 10" 20P will poke another 6mm and the tread of the tyre would be in the guard (just not the side wall)

B0F8A930-DC47-4E1E-9843-64C81D640A14-1079-000001FAF01726ED_zpsb3bfff56.jpg


Be aware that there is a legal limit as to the track of any vehicle. The 'track' is defined as that distance from centre of tyre across to centre of other tyre (i.e. left to right or right to left). If you increase the off-set then you will likely also increase the track width. Authorities will be right onto you as it will be so obvious once spotted. You will then most probably have your vehicle inspected front to back and side to side. Be prepared for defects. Good luck.

I believe your only allowed +25mm wheel track over all but where not worried about being LEGAL as know one has said anything about it so far.
 
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JNew

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IMG_2740.jpg


Does anyone know what offset/tyre size he is running? I am thinking a staggered set up is the way to go. 8.5" front and 10" rear just like Grennan and this guy Turbodragon.
 
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