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THE definitave V6 Conversion into VB, VC, VH & VK Thread (please post your knowledge)

LS1 James

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K-frames, VN/VP whole front ends fit (as they are identical except for rack mounts and the engine mounts), VR VS k frames fit but you must fit the VB-VL suspension to it (all bolts up the same). Most people use a VN power steer rack, the splines on the rack are the same as a VL, so a VL power steer intermediate shaft connects to both the steering column and rack and is the right length. To use a Later rack (ie one with a square drive) you use a VP (VR/VS may work as well) intermediate shaft but you remove the top yolk from the shaft and fit a VB-VL yolk to suit the steering columns spline and then the other end suits the square drive on the rack. I had to file about 1mm out of the cut away in the rack head as the shaft was just a smidgen too long and the bolt wouldn't go through the original cut out.

This part confuses me... So if i use the whole Front end off the VP, I need a VL intermediate shaft and that will direct-fit my VH steering to the VP power steering rack?
 

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Double post.........
 
Last edited:

VK SL 3800

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Your right you want a V8 tailshaft from VB-VH, probably the easiest way to tell what diff is if you look at the filler on the back of the diff, borgwarners have a rubber cap, and Salisbury have a bolt.

I Believe VBRED has a pic of his crossmember, he is using a T5 however. Im not sure if you weld the Angle on so that the crossmember sits at the same height as a T5 setup or if you have to weld it on a little lower so the gearbox can fit into the tunnel, im thinking you might have to weld it a little lower. Its the original crossmember you modify.

To use the whole front end of a VP you either need to swap your steering rack for a VN one and use the VL power steer intermediate shaft and it will all bolt up sweet as a VN uses a spline drive and so does VL, or you can do what i did and use the VP shaft and remove the top yolk and put you VH yolk on it so it still connects to the steering column. VP has square drives, and early models has splined drives. See the pic below, the top shaft is the VP shaft, and the bottom is a VL power steer one. In the pic i have removed the VL ones yolk and it is fitted to the VP one.(your VH one has the same yolk as a vl) Which makes it a splined drive to the steering column and a square drive to the rack. You can see from the bottom where it goes over the rack to the top uni they are both the same length, the VL one is shorter in the middle as it uses a coupler to slide over both the intermediate shaft spline and the rack spline whereas the VP one doesnt use a coupler. My way was cheaper for me because i didnt have buy another steering rack.

IMG_4780.jpg
 

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Ok most points i can answer pretty simple.

Electrical: the fuse/relay box isnt part of the engine loom (ecotec anyway) you can however put in relays and fuses you need and use the factory box for that standard look.

Tailshaft: yes i used vs front half with vl rear fitted perfectly and surprisingly was well balanced.

Diff: Yes vn diff will fit but you are limited in tyre size and rin choice as are wider so a vl diff is a better option.

Kframe: No use vn-vs kframe it keeps all parts off the shelf standard parts.

Steering: use vn rack with vl intermediate shaft anything else will require modification. All v6 powersteer lines will fit.

Fuel tank: Up to vs tank will fit as for lines u used the vs lines as the follow pretty much the same route but as i used wagon the where to long and needed shortening in the middle by a foot so i flared them and used rubber fuel line to join but you could also use brass fittings. make sure all lines are securely mounted and will not have and chance of rubbing on any body parts.

Transmission: I dont have pics but i can tell you that yes for proper drive train alignment the tunnel does need minor surgery to fit the 4l60/4l60e. I will detail this later.


Excellent, Thanks!


Transmission: I dont have pics but i can tell you that yes for proper drive train alignment the tunnel does need minor surgery to fit the 4l60/4l60e. I will detail this later.

Thats what im after! Cheers, If you could detail that it woulds be great
 

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turbo 400 speedo cable fit the t700 drive and up to vh dash but dont know about vk.

Hmmm, Forgive me but is the T700 the VP auto tranny i'll be using? If so thats a + for me.
What engines/cars was the Turbo 400 hooked up to so i can find one?
 

180sc

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Ok yes vn vp vq all use 4l60 to be exact also know as th700r4 they are essentially the same as the 4l60e of later models only they are not electronically operated.
VB VC and some other came out with a 308 turbo 400 combo and you use the cable for one of them they are available off the shelf at any good parts store.
 

LS1 James

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Ok yes vn vp vq all use 4l60 to be exact also know as th700r4 they are essentially the same as the 4l60e of later models only they are not electronically operated.
VB VC and some other came out with a 308 turbo 400 combo and you use the cable for one of them they are available off the shelf at any good parts store.

Sweet! So all i have to do is get a Turbo 400 Accelerator cable and it hooks up to my VP auto AND the back of my dash???
Seems too easy, How come others have had to get special cables etc made?
Thanks for the info
 

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Speedo cable not accelerator others get cables made because they dont try things first. i had a vq statesman turbo 700 in my vb using turbo 400 cable straight fit no dramas.
But i did not have an efi engine instead i had 350 chev and didnt use torque convertor lockup so i didnt require speed signal to return to ecu where you will.
 

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Hi,

I have been trawling the site for weeks and have scrounged up as much info/pics as i can on doint this conversion.
There is most of the info around (cheers VK SL 3800) but most of the rest of it is scattered here there and everywhere.
My aim is to get all of the info as to what is required to do the conversion & what is required to be changed on the recipient vehicle for the conversion to work.
Mainly after write ups & pics on the difficult stuff, Like massaging the trans tunnel to fir the 4 speed auto (Is it required, What needs to be done)?

Electrical - (can i run the entire engine loom from the computer inc fuse boxes etc)

Tailshaft - Have heard MANY different stories. (have heard that you can use a vk EFI rear end spliced with the VN/VP front end without having to cut/chop/weld the tailshaft at all, is this accurate)

Diff, Apparently the VN/VP diffs will bolt straight in (Any mods required? Will the brake lines need to be re-routed etc?)

K-Frame - Is retaining the standard (VH) setup the best?

Steering - (Modifications required if you change the k-frame etc)

Fuel Tank - (Obviously an extra fuel line is required if your car is not EFI, How to run it ETC)


Please no V6 Conversion Bashing here.

I'm trying to make this the be all and end all thread for this. I will also be posting pics of my efforts too, So if you have any pics POST THEM UP!!!

Cheers

I have done a V6 conversion to my VH and you seem to have already gotten a heap of help from the guys on here but if needed here is the stuff i have done could be of some help to ya also
Electrical - I gutted the whole VH loom from the car bar the few wires from the heater control, i replaced the VH loom with the whole loom from the series one VN V6 making it easier to hook the motor and auto etc up.

Tailshaft - I have keeped the original whole VH shaft and hope this may be ok yet to find out (someone else may beable to inform me if this could cause problems at all)

Diff - Also the original VH item with drum brakes, (am planning on updateing to a VN disc type down the track just have to work out the rims side of things as the VN diff is about one or two inch wider, have heard the hand brake cable needs to be changed too)

K - Frame - I went with the whole change over to VN, struts and all as they bolt up now dramas (saves on alt things from the V6 to fit in).

Steering - Went with the whole change to VN shaft with just altering the bracket to bolt under the dash and bolt up to the rack now being VN as well. (Steering seem to work correctly so far)

Fuel tank - Removed the VH item and swapped to a VN one with the replacing of the fuel lines to the motor with VL item as to keep the floor shape on the lines just had to remove the external pump on the feed line and sligthly alt path of line in the engine bay.
Also replaced the fuel filler neck to VN as well.

I also have some info on my forum page at "street commodores.com.au" if that helps good luck mate will be good to see some pics and the other feed back from the other guys on here as these forum page guys are a great help.
cheers
 
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