Thoughts on Tyres

[Forg]

OK here’s a Whacky Question, from someone who would be buying tyres for their loved one’s SSVR ... given that we’ve done nearly 24k km in nearly 4 years, how do the MSP4S compare to an RE003 for those who don’t do a lot of km’s per year?

Our tyres are close to 5 years old, this must be getting near that time when the rubber starts to suffer from UV and age. So how, when doing low km’s, does an all-rounder like the Michelins compare to a “cheap” soft wearey-outey like the RE003 when you don’t drive that much?

 

[losh1971]

Chinese brand tyres have a very bad rap and most articles I've seen on them say to avoid, I've read statements like think of your family's safety.

Depends on the brand I have a set of Champs on the rear, were on the front and they are really decent I slam the brakes on and they pull me up nicely. Yes we are worlds apart obviously because the tyres I need pull me up with no issues at all and I don't spend a great deal. Then again I am very sensible on the road and am always aware of my surroundings and ready to swerve or slam the brakes on to avoid log semis who seem to think they have a right to drive in the middle of the road including on the gravel. A few times I have had to go mowing the grass to avoid them. So as for me unless I need to stop from 170kph to 10kph in 4 seconds like I do on the track I use what is affordable without any problem at all.

Be good if you could enlighten me as to why on the road someone would require $300 tyres on a conventional vehicle. I only say that because I have had no issues with $125 tyres or $250 tyres which is about as much as I have ever spent but wouldn't again.

Not having a go BTW just intrigued that people say because tyres are economical they must be rubbish.

 

[losh1971]

Cheap tyres are cheap for a reason and I quiver at the thought of them, Commodores are heavy beasts and if you can't afford good tyres then you probably can't afford the car.

I can not afford $300 tyres every 18 months and I can only afford a $1500 car. What should I do get rid of the old bus and go on the dole because I wouldn't be able to get to work?

 

[Forg]

I can not afford $300 tyres every 18 months and I can only afford a $1500 car. What should I do get rid of the old bus and go on the dole because I wouldn't be able to get to work?

To be phair, this is a VF sub-forum and is sort-of about cars worth ~$30k - ~$60k.

 

[losh1971]

To be phair, this is a VF sub-forum and is sort-of about cars worth ~$30k - ~$60k.

No **** but people are bagging out tyres that are price affordable saying that unless you spend the big bucks you're more or less a liability. Heck with the stopping power of the VF Redlines in theory you could get away with a cheaper tyre because even with Sam Yang's on you will stop miles before I would in my old POS even with $400 tyres all round, lol.

Just for the record I am not saying people shouldn't spend $350-$400ea on tyres if you can afford that and justify the cost by all means it's a great idea. But to label all economical tyres as garbage isn't right either.

 

[lordsnipe]

Heck with the stopping power of the VF Redlines in theory you could get away with a cheaper tyre because even with Sam Yang's on you will stop miles before I would in my old POS even with $400 tyres all round, lol.

Stopping distance would be affected with tyres with less grip, the car would hit ABS sooner than the same car with a grippier tyre.

 

[[paradox]]

Don’t confuse “the best” with “the most expensive”;

when i did defensive and advanced driving courses last year, the instructor, whos company often does tyre testing basically said you are better off going for the flagship tyre of a second tier brand over a entry level tyre on a top tier brand (probably common sense).

but yes, get "the best" you can afford, for what purpose you require.
obviously grandma in her v6 evoke probably doesn't need the limits of a PS4S when a PS71 would do the same thing.

and also make sure they are at correct pressure, so you have the maximum surface area contact with the road

 

[Forg]

but yes, get "the best" you can afford, for what purpose you require.
obviously grandma in her v6 evoke probably doesn't need the limits of a PS4S when a PS71 would do the same thing.

Well; not if she had to stop in a hurry? And if her reflexes are slower, she probably actually needs the better tyre even more than a Vettel does?

Yeah I know, we can't all buy the best of everything … and I don't buy the best tyres myself, for myself, despite kinda/sorta thinking maybe I should.

 

[Ross Wonderley]

when i did defensive and advanced driving courses last year, the instructor, whos company often does tyre testing basically said you are better off going for the flagship tyre of a second tier brand over a entry level tyre on a top tier brand (probably common sense).

Would second this approach. Had some Pirellis on my Honda Jazz shopping trolley that were absolute rubbish.

 

[panhead]

OK here’s a Whacky Question, from someone who would be buying tyres for their loved one’s SSVR ... given that we’ve done nearly 24k km in nearly 4 years, how do the MSP4S compare to an RE003 for those who don’t do a lot of km’s per year?

Our tyres are close to 5 years old, this must be getting near that time when the rubber starts to suffer from UV and age. So how, when doing low km’s, does an all-rounder like the Michelins compare to a “cheap” soft wearey-outey like the RE003 when you don’t drive that much?

I often have tyres that get to the end of their life before the tread wears out and if it's a daily then I start to think about replacement.

Even though this is a bit more extreme I went through an exercise a year or so ago that would probably have some semblance to your question.

I removed the OEM rims and tyres from a car the day after I picked it up from the dealership.

The tyres are Pirelli P Zeros with the older type tread, there is a new tread pattern available now but Pirelli for some reason are still selling the older tread worldwide alongside the new.

At the time I purchased the car these where the OEM tyres for AMG’s.

A bit over a year ago I hit a pothole and split the wall on one of my front tyres and because the rears were starting to get down to the wear indicators I decided to replace the lot.

I was having trouble sourcing a set of 285/25R20 for the rear and to give myself some extra time to look around without running on a spacesaver I swapped back to the OEM rims and tyres for a week.

These tyres had about 30 kilometres on them and were removed from the car about 8 years earlier, they have 4 different manufacturer date stamps which are all around mid 2009, I bought the car in late 2009.

I keep all my stored rims and tyres wrapped in shrink wrap stacked on their sides sitting on 4 short timber planks with cardboard between each just in case you're wondering.

The tyres felt fine during normal driving until I pushed them hard through a very tight bend near my place and the car began to understeer and the tyres were chattering like mad, I knew the car could get through that bend at that speed without a problem and I have other cars that are running newer P Zeros with the old tread pattern and they don’t chatter so I put it down to the old tyres being okay but only to a point.

I have another spare set of P Zeros in my shed and a tradie repairing some hail damage at my place was looking around and asked me if I wanted to sell them and I told him they had about 300 kilometres on them and were 5 ½ years old and had come off a car I’d sold and he said he had an old Ford in his shed that had tyres twice that age and they drove great.

We talked of the merits of old tyres and he was of the opinion they age gracefully, me I don’t think so and gave him a price and he said he’d take them.

I still have the old Pirellis from the AMG and will keep them like I do with all the OEMs for my cars as they’ll add to the future sale when my children sell off my old cars and even though they may feel fine with day to day driving, I have doubts if they are really needed in an emergency they’ll be up to scratch to do what they were designed to do.

Some people are happy with that decrease in performance but I’m not.

The same goes for people who try to justify the need to buy high end performance tyres for street cars and those who buy entry level all-rounders for the same, the for and against arguments for both have elements of truth but there is a definite advantage outside of cost for the higher end product and I know which I will always choose for the safety of my family.

I purchased some Falken Azenis FK453 Ultra High Performance tyres a while back because my local supplier couldn’t get what I wanted in the size I required, I was told these were a good performing tyre and as they were much cheaper than what I normally buy, I thought why not and took the chance.

They do a more than good job in the dry but because of the torque (stock tune) of the car they go mental in the wet and offer no grip, I have to baby the car around and feather the throttle when raining which as far as I’m concerned means these tyres are a nuisance, not safe and not up to what the car requires.

If you have a car that costs very little and offers even less performance then go for a cheaper tyre if that’s what you think is warranted, if you have a relatively heavy performance orientated car than why restrict it by not buying a tyre that at a minimum matches or exceeds the OEM’s originally fitted by the manufacturer.



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