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Tight Steering on omega, hearing groaning and vibrating noises?

Mysterious-VE

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hey guys, i have a question,
first of all, i lowered my omega, and when i was changing the springs, the bearings off the top of the strut tower fell everywhere, so being an 18 year old that i am, i picked up all the bearings, degreased them and repacked them,

a few weeks later, my steering locked up, so i put it down to these bearings, so over the weekend i replaced them and got the car back on the road, and i still have the same problem,

the steering is fine when im going at a decent speed, but trying to do low speed turns such as round abouts is almost impossible, especially trying to park! ive noticed it turns a bit easier with throttle, but without it, it just doesnt wanna go anywhere, and makes a loud groaning and vibrating sound,

my dad seems to think its the rack and pinion, but i dont justify spending 2.5g on a new one, incase it isnt,
i think it has something to do with the pump being blocked or something? maybe its just cacked itself?

if someone could help it would be great, thanks
 

Crackers01

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I would check the "check valves" it cost me $600 in racks and $100 pump because a mechanic hadn't put the check valves back in properly. But in saying that you probably haven't removed them. Otherwise check for leaks around the rack. There an independent system with no electronic assistance (sensors etc). So it can only be the pump, lines, rack or Power steering fluid cooler which runs through the condenser. I'd take it into a mechanic and get them to put a pressure tester on it at the high pressure line on the rack side. Make sure its making the correct pressure.
 

Mysterious-VE

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Thanks guys, it's an 06 and just rolled over the 160k mark
I'm not 100 percent sure, is there a backyard way of checking it myself? Still new to cars and tring to learn it all aha
 

Mysterious-VE

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gahhhh, so i took it into the mechanics, and they said it was definatly a rack and pinion,
picked one up on ebay, 650 bucks, brand new, 12 month warranty, blah blah blah,
got it all replaced, and its still the same issue, next guess is the pump?
 

Mysterious-VE

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gahhhh, so i took it into the mechanics, and they said it was definatly a rack and pinion,
picked one up on ebay, 650 bucks, brand new, 12 month warranty, blah blah blah,
got it all replaced, and its still the same issue, next guess is the pump?
 

oska

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someone on this forum told me that holden spent 1 billion dollars on the VE, so anything wrong with it must be impossible :rofl2:
 

db_notso

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vt v6, mods(susp brakesetc...)
tight steering in ALL ve at low speed only is generally either

low tyre pressure (a flat on front)

strut top BUSHES (the center sits higher than the outside edge)
like... _--_

or pump failure (;ike ignition is on and engine is off and you try to steer it)

this bush on the top of strut; holds your bearings (replace them if they come apart as they are a tested set and bind up when re-assembled (i tried a few times and they wear a track and dont want to fit in different order for whatever reason))

the BUSH and BEARINGS ARE the LOAD CARRYING joint in a macpherson strut system(ve) and first point of failure (high km's).

this "tightness" caused by strut top bushes at low speed; generally isnt noticed by the normal customer....
and is more present NEAR full lock UP TO full lock and steering wheel feels "tighter" than normal (more force to turn in car parks is a common complaint) (new bushes fixes this for 120.000 km's or so :) )

and increasing RPM giving better steering generally = increases pump to "relief" or max pressure SO if something is binding it overcomes it AND if fluid is low (leak/air) the valve stays shut and sucks all it can into the valves sending it of the rack...making it feel "better"
but it actually masks the problem

which can be black old fluid blocking valve in pump (p-steering fluid flush to fix) or these other problems below:

check:
fluid in p-steering resevoir isnt black (p-steer flush)and fluid isnt very low or leaking....
(causing air in sytem and an event called cavitation due to air in pump),

check that fluid is moving in resevoir when on full lock (shows there is at least some flow; look in with lid off resevoir while HOLDING steering wheel at full lock)

IF idle speed is specification e.g. not less than 500rpm
(big cam giving too lower idle without accel pedal to lift idle can cause pump pressure too low (custom relief valve in pump needed)),

and top bushes/bearings ok
(to check bearings; jack car up turn wheel if a nothcy bearing "feeling" is felt holding the SPRING (with your hand) top bearing is shagged)
to check BUSHES jack both front wheels off ground and see if struts can be moved UP and DOWN with springs compressed by spring compressors (all old ve's (old bushes) fail this test, fyi)

next reccomend: a wheel alignment specialist to inspect front SUSPENSION and STEERING for leaks, wear
(pump AND bushes etc)(wear common from 180,00km's onwards or high km's).

my bet however...
is that your strut tops are shagged as are your bearings and POSSIBLY pump (but if pressure problem more likely fluid is to blame)

good luck...
 
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