Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Using Sandpaper to Roughen up Brake Rotors

ben315vz

Donating Member
Joined
May 11, 2011
Messages
1,466
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Age
32
Location
Tamborine Mountain, QLD
Members Ride
'05 Holden VZ Calais V8
Problem is where I work, they have set the compressor for truck wheels, to remove and re fit the wheel nuts. So when you use the rattle gun on cars, you have to be careful not to go too far and snap the studs. We have also had problems where customers come back and complain because they have had a flat tyre and were not able to undo the wheel nuts because they were too tight. That is another reason that I think it is a good idea to torque them to the correct setting. And also lock nuts, I have never used a rattle gun to undo or tighten a lock nut, but the apprentice where I work is that lazy that he has done them up with the rattle gun and ended up rounding the nut or the socket. Another customer had a VS SS Ute with lock nuts, he got a puncture and couldn't remove the lock nut because the socket was rounded, he ended up calling RACV, we ended up having to hammer an old socket on it to get it off.
 

ben315vz

Donating Member
Joined
May 11, 2011
Messages
1,466
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Age
32
Location
Tamborine Mountain, QLD
Members Ride
'05 Holden VZ Calais V8
It sounds like you work in a place where most of the people have NFI.

It's just the fact that there are too many bosses and not enough workers...
 

Customcreations

PORTED GETS IT SORTED
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
236
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Cessnock Australia
Members Ride
VS Commodore V6 EcoTech Custom Ported by me
:yeah:
It sounds like you work in a place where most of the people have NFI.

I take it NFI means No Flaming Idea!!?

Only thing I haven't heard anyone mension is, After installing pads you take it for a drive to bed them in which is a process of driving to 60Km/h then braking firmly but without locking it up and ease of at around 5 KM/h then continue driving up to 60 K's again and repeat the process say 3 to 5 times. Also wait at least a minute between braking runs (if possible) you dont want go up the back end of someone just cause it's not time to do the next braking run!!!. That's all I've done to my car and customers and friends cars for the last 24 years. (Aside from a quick squirt of brake cleaner, cleaning the edges where the pads slot in and greasing those edges with copper grease to prevent squeals and sticking brake pads). I was surprised the last time I went to buy copper grease at REPCO to have the sales rep say "What's That". Now its a shotty anti squeal spray cn that you have to pay through the nose for. Copper grease lasts for ever before you need to buy more. That's probably why they wanted to stop selling it! Luckily my neighbour had a drum of it as they use it in the mines.
 

greenacc

Searching for the billion
Joined
Jul 13, 2008
Messages
6,899
Reaction score
3,071
Points
113
Location
Sydney
Members Ride
VE Berlina
Even when the disc has a 2mm lip on the outside edge a disc sander or an angle grinder used with light pressure can take that off easily.
I haven't had my discs machined in over 10 years since i realised it was BS. If you use decent pads and keep the slides greased you can forget about rotor problems. ( and keep your car away from places that rush the job to make more money ^^^^^ )
 

ben315vz

Donating Member
Joined
May 11, 2011
Messages
1,466
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Age
32
Location
Tamborine Mountain, QLD
Members Ride
'05 Holden VZ Calais V8
:yeah:

I take it NFI means No Flaming Idea!!?

Only thing I haven't heard anyone mension is, After installing pads you take it for a drive to bed them in which is a process of driving to 60Km/h then braking firmly but without locking it up and ease of at around 5 KM/h then continue driving up to 60 K's again and repeat the process say 3 to 5 times. Also wait at least a minute between braking runs (if possible) you dont want go up the back end of someone just cause it's not time to do the next braking run!!!. That's all I've done to my car and customers and friends cars for the last 24 years. (Aside from a quick squirt of brake cleaner, cleaning the edges where the pads slot in and greasing those edges with copper grease to prevent squeals and sticking brake pads). I was surprised the last time I went to buy copper grease at REPCO to have the sales rep say "What's That". Now its a shotty anti squeal spray cn that you have to pay through the nose for. Copper grease lasts for ever before you need to buy more. That's probably why they wanted to stop selling it! Luckily my neighbour had a drum of it as they use it in the mines.

That was mainly the bedding in procedure for asbestos brakes, there is no need to do that with brake pads these days.
 

Customcreations

PORTED GETS IT SORTED
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
236
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Cessnock Australia
Members Ride
VS Commodore V6 EcoTech Custom Ported by me
That was mainly the bedding in procedure for asbestos brakes, there is no need to do that with brake pads these days.

still works for me but I do recognize that as I use the bendix with the bedding strips. Just find it doesn't hurt to keep the habbit. I guess that is why no one bothered mensioning it. BTW, I have a cordless Panasonic rattle gun. As long as its fully charged it does them up to the perfect tension. Checked after with the T wrench. Top little cordless they are. I have snapped a bolt withit when it was new.( not a wheel bolt but equivalent size to one)
 

Jxfwsf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
4,852
Reaction score
108
Points
48
Location
Aus
Members Ride
commodore
so if a disc is not warped in anyway way but has grooves even all the way around in a circle, wouldn't this result in better braking once the pads have bedded in? something with multiple _/\/\_ angles has more surface area for contact than a flat _____ surface area (if there is no runout then this would be better than standard)
 

mr j-man

New Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
1,115
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
GC
Members Ride
VH SL/E 355
Yeah thats why I thought. I was trying to help and then was told that it's dangerous. The place where I work has been doing it for 43 year and have never had a problem.
it was funny to read that they all said it was a bad idea and also dangerous, but not 1 person had any evidence to back up their conclusion......its like when u glue 2 flat surfaces together u have to rough it up a little to increase the surface area and friction between the 2 surfaces...... id say this would apply to the brakes also upon bedding them in
 

mr j-man

New Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
1,115
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
GC
Members Ride
VH SL/E 355
still works for me but I do recognize that as I use the bendix with the bedding strips. Just find it doesn't hurt to keep the habbit. I guess that is why no one bothered mensioning it. BTW, I have a cordless Panasonic rattle gun. As long as its fully charged it does them up to the perfect tension. Checked after with the T wrench. Top little cordless they are. I have snapped a bolt withit when it was new.( not a wheel bolt but equivalent size to one)

would that happen to be the 15.6v pano with the 1/2" drive shaft on it?? if so i have the same 1....the best drill ever imo! perfect for wheels as you said!
 
Top