V6 Rear main seal retaining plate bolt locating bushes

[EYY]

Those plastic dowels arent tgat great in my opinion. They distort when they get hot and the plate moves creating a leak at the rear main seal. Ive replaced them with aluminium sleeves so theres no chance of movement and reuseable if need be. I just bought some a/c fittings from ashdown ingrams that had the right o/d and i/d and cut off the mushroom top. I also drilled 2 holes into the sump so i could put bolts into the bottom of the rear plate for extra security and sump sealing. Ill post a pic of them tomorrow

The dowels do not allow leaks, nor do they move. The dowels serve no structural purpose - they are only used for alignment. Once the bolts are tightened they’re not required.

 

[L36hunter]

I rebuilt my brothers engine and when i pulled it out the dowels had distorted and cracked and there was a gap between the rear main seal and the crank on one side. Id post a pic of the ally sleeves but it wont allow me to upload it

 

[Old_School]

Thanks for all the help, & suggestions, & I would still like to see the image of the

cut down Air Con parts & part No. for future reference, Please ( L36 Hunter ) even though I got the New
Rear Main Seal Kit delivered today, & the parts were spot on & all there, & I found
a printout I'm posting, I said I would, courtesy of Hamilton Holden & a pic of my new elusive parts, i have
everything i need to finish the VY now, Cheers Tonner & to everyone else that has helped with Info, Cheers

 

[Old_School]

After all the research & help, I know I'm doing it the right way, & i now have everything for assembly & I got my refund & my son got an extra $93 back in his wallet & I have the satisfaction of knowing the Job will be done right, & with new bolts & Dowels

 

[Alcyone]

Good stuff! Makes all the difference knowing your doing something right. Don't forget to add some extra sealant to the gasket too (speaking from a bad experience here lol)

Gotta love the diagrams you get from the Holden places. Makes me drool every time I see them. Think I even drooled over the shoulder of one of the Holden employees one time I was there.

 

[EYY]

I rebuilt my brothers engine and when i pulled it out the dowels had distorted and cracked and there was a gap between the rear main seal and the crank on one side. Id post a pic of the ally sleeves but it wont allow me to upload it

That just means you didn’t tighten in the correct sequence or overtightened the plate.

 

[L36hunter]

That just means you didn’t tighten in the correct sequence or overtightened the plate.

I found this while i was rebuilding it. The plate hadnt been touched since factory 180k later.

And how do i upload the photo as it says its not able to?

 

[Lex]

[/QUOTE] And how do i upload the photo as it says its not able to?[/QUOTE]
Hi
Possibly the photo is to large. For me l can't upload any photo, 2MB or larger.
They have to be under 2 MB in size to upload.

 

[Old_School]

I've found with even the alloytec engines a lot of their bolts have that centring bush on their bolts and it looks like a piece of black plastic cut off a long length of extruded tube .
From what I've read the drama with the rear seal plate is the actual paper gasket decay failure on a old engine and normally the alloy plate is fine and all you need is a new gasket and a new rear main seal ....on early ecotecs I remember reading the the positioning of the plate was stressed in the manual was super important ...and you needed a tool to position it right ... On later engines they must have put the plastic bush in the bolt holes to make instal easier

Hi After what I learnt thats what the Sprints Dude said their mechanics they use were botching them up with Lol , which means that one has been done before & not done properly, plastic tube is round not hexagonal like the dowels are in the picture i was very appreciatedly educated by Tonner Matt & Others , & I understand a lot more about after phoning & talking to Holden Spares Dealers Directly. So they are used for assembly only but if its not assembled correctly its just a matter of time til early failure from not being concentric to the crankshaft mating surface / position , & the run out Tolerance isnt really so the plastic hexagonal shaped parts " Dowels " have more angles & centre each bolt independantly & more accurately as their tightened & once their locked in poasition the correct alignment more acurately achieved they roll on for over 200 00Kms if done right , which is my understanding, & its such a time consuming Job You dont wanna be revisiting it again in 12 months, was actually a lot cheaper to get the right parts from the link that was Poasted " again Thanks Tonner'" & get them freighted from Victoria to Adelaide, ( Ive put more detail in incase some onelse comes across the same issues ), Now Ive got BCM Issues In My SC VT Calais, So i will look in the excellent wealth of Information In the Forums Re That, Thanks again to everyone that Got me back on Track with my sons car, Cheers Big Time Everyone

 

[JeremySS]

hey guys just thought I’d add to this as I read it a few nights ago.. I’ve done some research and Holden do supply the plate kit which include these plastic locators- the kit is over 500$!! (I live in New Zealand) I cleaned up my plate in a kerosene wash bay, got a new gaskit, seal and decided to make my own locators out of acetal plastic. I’m a machinist, all I did was drill an 8.0mm hole, spun the material down to 11.0mm and machined a 10degree taper, parted them off at approx 10.0mm long and tapped em in the holes. I’m going to fit this plate tomorow as well as fit a new clutch/flywheel etc. Fingers crossed this works out hope this helps guys. Pretty basic job for a machine shop, I spent half an hour after work maken em on a manual lathe so it wouldn’t cost much if you guys take those dimensions to a shop.