Ve race ute

[K-Man]

I have a daily 06 SSV that I blast around the track, then drive home. Then to work the next day.

I found the following to be weak areas of the standard commo that you should start with first.

Brakes - Minimum HSV 4 Pot all round, if you can get a cheap 2nd hand set. But really, do it once, do it properly, go Alcon or AP racing 6 pot front 4 pot rear. I have the Harrop 4 piston monster kit = toasted brakes at Mallala. Lasted 12 Laps.

Power steering - The reservoir I found isn't actually water tight - opened the bonnet after a session to find power steering fluid everywhere. So get an aftermarket power steering reservoir and cooler.

Gearbox - My gearbox (6/manual) no longer goes into 2nd properly, unless its perfectly aligned. And sometimes not even then. I don't know If I simply have a bad example, or if this always happens after racing, but its never been the same since the first track day. So I'm going to wait until it dies, then get a HSV box and cooler.

Power - I have 315Rwkw, and revved the car to 6400rpm every gear change. Trust me, that is enough power to start with. If you want to supercharge later go for your life. So get a cam to begin with, but not ridiculously big so you cant drive it on the street.

Wheels - Don't race on 20's with street tyres like I started with. Get a set of racing wheels with good tyres then change them at the track. You're in a ute, so you wont have to put wheels on the back seat like me.

I would start there, then add more upgrades later. Next would be suspension as previously outlined.

Good luck, have fun.

 

[Fito]

If you do have a good budget, forget the Teins and get on to MCA (Murry Coote) MCA Suspension | The official website of MCA Suspension they can also advise you on sway bars and bushings. Just don't go out and put urethane in everything as in some spots it is better to have a high quality rubber ones.
The exhaust can be a tricky one, up here there are a couple of tracks that have a maximum noise level that the car can reach, if its too loud then you are not allowed to race. I don't know if there are any tracks down your way that have the same restrictions. I would do some checking first.

Rip shifters are cool, but they do have a down side, get the shift wrong and it can hurt the box. Have seen quite a few damaged from not getting the gear engaged properly. But they do make the shift nice and quick!

Blower for track work is so much fun!!!! You will find that you don't need to pull big revs when using the blower, you can just drive it i the low and mid range and have enough torque that there is no need to rev it past about 6K.
Down side to a blower for track work is heat soak and the output air temps. It takes a fair bit of work and a good amount of cash to build a inter cooler that will put up with lap after lap at a race track. There are quite a few off the shelf ones, but most are only good for street duties.

Don't forget tyres, a good semi/full slick will save you seconds compared to a average tyre.

You will find the best information you can get is from people that go and do what you want to do. Head out to some track days and have a look around at what people are running and have a chat to them. You will learn so much more about what works and what doesn't work.
Its so easy for people to tell you to do this or that and yet they have never done any of it themselves.
Spend your money once and spend it right, it makes it a hell of a lot cheaper and a lot more fun that way!

No matter which way you go, have fun!!!

Great advice mate but why mca?

 

[Decicrate]

MCA have been around for a long time. They are responsible for many well set up track cars, rally cars, off road racers, drifters and many Time attack cars.

They are not cheap, but when it comes down to going fast these guys know how to extract time from your car.