VE/WM 6.0 hard to start no power, CEL warnings (possible solution)

[v8_Brian_1980]

Ladies and Gents, I thought I would document this issue, as I researched a fair bit over the past 2 weeks and couldnt find this solution, however stumbled on the fix.

Symptoms and Issues:
I recently bought a WM (VE) Caprice 6 Litre v8, great car, but had a LOT of kms on the car. Found a few immediate issues, nothing over the top (so I thought).
When I first looked at the car, it had a VERY lazy starter, sounded like the battery was dead, but after the first turn-over, the crank went to normal, would crank for a few seconds, generally fire up to life. Checked the voltage, no issues, so it was the starter.

Every few goes, it would fire up, cough, splutter a bit, idle perfect, but felt like a 4-cylinder past 2,000rpm, sounded like it had misfires, and 'sometimes' would through a CEL (Check Engine Light). Got the Diag computer out, never showed any issues for misfires, but would show an issue P0335-00/P (Crankshaft Sensor Incorrect Signal).
With this warning, it would run like a bagt of floppy dongs. Run for a minute or 2, shut it off, start it up and it usually ran sweet again.

Parts: I bought new starter from ebay $113 and new CAS sensor from a place near home for $54,

Discoveries and Solution:
So I received my parts, set to work, a 13mm socket and 10mm socket, and under the car we go.

I pulled the battery neg terminal in the boot (make sure you unlock the car before opening the boot and pulling the terminal, otherwise it goes mental when you put the terminal back on)

Got under the car, 13mm x 2 bolts, starter down, unclipped the trigger wire, unbolted the 13mm positive feed cable, and the wiggled the starter motor out through the small gap (it can be done, but is a damn tight fit, pay attention to the way it comes out, because it needs to go back in the same way).

Unplugged the cable from the CAS sensor, then 10mm bolt to undo the sensor, and a little wiggle and it's free.

Initially, I replaced the sensor, reversed the above, and figured I was done. WRONG! started the car, cranks perfectly, but ran like a bag of dongs, CAS warnings, no power, was bloody horrible to drive.

At first, I figured I must have got a dud CAS, well I had the original, so back under to replace the CAS back and hope.

When I got back under it I was kicking myself for not seeing the issue originally.

Site notes: The CAS and starter are both within coo-ie of the exhaust, so it's farken hot in this area, as such, there is some considerations to take note of. First one is heat sheilds, yes it's a headache, but put the shields back on. Second consideration is loom plastic doesnt like extremes, so hot and cold and hot and cold turns the plastic brittle.

So, the root-causeL When I got back under the car, dropped the starter and went to unplug the CAS, I was hit in the face by a section of plastic. I then noticed 1 of the wires on the CAS loom was exposed in a few places, and I could see marks on the edge of the brand new starter motor. The signal wire from the CAS was grounding out on the starter, so the car's CEL readout was right, wrong signal for CAS.

I got some heat-rated electrical tape, wrapped down from tube to plug on the exposed wire, then plug to tube including the middle wire, and tube to plug on the 3rd wire, then back up. Once I did that, I grabbed some fuzzy head rated loom tape and re-did the wrapping with loom tape. Left the new CAS in, plugged it back in, refitted the starter motor, connected the battery, and the car has not missed or shown any issues of mis fire, low power or difficult starting since.

See picture from the wires that were exposed for reference.

 

[krusing]

Oh dear, it has cooked it,
Good find tho,
Well done on the fix,
I often wonder how long the PVC insulation will last in extreme temperatures,
There was some heat shields on some sensors I seen on the LFX's, the ones up under the exhaust manifolds,
They are like a plastic circular fitting that a wrapped in Silver Material.

I had a similar thing recently with the loom split conduit on my LY7, on Bank 2 Lower CAM sensor, I noticed it was falling apart, as soon as I moved/touched it, it just disintegrated,
Luckily the wires were ok, removed the remainder of split conduit, and had to re-fit some from a old loom I had here,
retape it together and at the sensor plug.

If there was spare wire in the loom, (which isn't normally, as they are like piano strings)
would of been better to cut the cables and slide some heat shrink on them and re-solder them,
But if Holden can save 50mm of wire on each cable, I guess its a big saving on copper.

 

[WreckWren]

Good find, this is a common problem and I've known a few people who have thrown parts at it.