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VK air con

1985VK

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Who stocks TXVs for VKs?

It's probably not worth trying to reverse flush one in the car as the pintle is closed and opened by the pressure head. The TXV is described as "where the cold happens" - the orifice is 0.5mm or less and work like a spray can.
 

1985VK

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I wonder how many VK air cons were stuffed up by the wrong top up and regas in the 1990s? I know one story of an air con not cooling that had a regas that did not make it cooler but later (don't know how many days or weeks) the compressor seized so hard it stalled the car.
 

VK SL 3800

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An A/C system is quite complex, principle is simple but there is a lot more to them as far as gas pressures/behaviors , types of gas and lubrication etc

Converting to R134 you need to change the oil, r134 doesnt pick up the R12 oil and transport it around so the pump will push it all out and seize.
Generally speaking the system will never get atmosphere in it unless there is very large hole. Most failure result in 99% gas out and a tiny bit of pressure left. The pressure switch will cut the compressor long before any atmosphere is in the system.

Unless the compressor fails there really isnt many ways for the TX valve to be blocked but does happen occasionally, the dryer will also pickup most contaminants anyways.
 

1985VK

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So is it fair to say if the compressor seizes then the TXV is clogged?

I have unbolted a system on a VK that lost its gas decades ago and the crud in the compressor lines had to be seen to be believed and the drier looked like it had rust dust in it. All the lines were probably contaminated with that powdery dust whatever that was. Thoughts?
 

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There are places that can rebuild your compressor on google but try getting one close to yours and change the pully to fit your belt, I see vr-vs compressors are hard to come by new these days as well, you can still get txv, condensers and driers but you have to send your compressor off to get rebuilt, if its working then flush out your system replace 0-rings get most oil as you can out of the compressor and get a place to fill it that use hychill refrigerant, its colder than 134a and it has no issues with any other oil like PAG oil and is safe in old and new systems. Drier is a must to replace if its been exposed to air..
 

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If you use hychill, check with your insurance first.
 

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Dead aircon would of been why plenty of early commodores left the road grandpa cracking it on a hot day and getting a new car, my own grandpa was too tight for that his ac was never on as he thought it used extra fuel. From what you've written to fix the ac you must love the old commodore as it will cost more than the value of the car to fix.
Either find a compressor thats not seized put it on vac the system out gas it up and see what happens or replace the lot.
I remember when early commodores were 5 years old most of the aircons didn't work then.
Personally I've never been able to reach the wallet to fix the ac on any of my cars, I own a vac pump a set of gauges a reclaim and a few bottles of gas I don't think I've had a personal car with a working air con this century to be honest.
 

1985VK

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I remember when early commodores were 5 years old most of the aircons didn't work then.

This. I don't know why though. I can get an unseized compressor but will need to clean the whole system out from the dusty crud in it. I want to flush the lines out and do it properly. It would be great to have a working air con.
 
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1985VK

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flush out your system replace 0-rings get most oil as you can out of the compressor and get a place to fill it that use hychill refrigerant

Does the Hychill have the oil in it or does the oil need to be added separately? The original R12 system had mineral oil but not sure of the volume.
 

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150 mills [URL]https://hychill.com.au/products/SRO500[/URL]
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