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VR V-8 SS

Deuce

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Installed the new heater core today.
Not a fun job!
It's still looped onto itself in the engine bay so no flow through the core. But will sort that after the 1/8 mile street drags in March of which I just did my entry form today.
 

losh1971

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Good on for doing it the proper way. Having done this on a Jeep once I know what's involved and the time it takes. Many would just loop it and leave it or pipe chop rather than fix it properly.
 

Deuce

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Good on for doing it the proper way. Having done this on a Jeep once I know what's involved and the time it takes. Many would just loop it and leave it or pipe chop rather than fix it properly.
I did pipe chop. Gotta be mad-dog to take the entire dash out for one silly little radiator.
The loop is from heater outlet (tap) to heater return on engine block.
As said, I'll wait until after the drags (and subsequently closer to winter) before re-running the hoses and adding coolant.
 

someguy360

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I did pipe chop. Gotta be mad-dog to take the entire dash out for one silly little radiator.
The loop is from heater outlet (tap) to heater return on engine block.
As said, I'll wait until after the drags (and subsequently closer to winter) before re-running the hoses and adding coolant.
Not only that but I've always found the dash is never the same after it's been out.

You'll end up with more creaks and rattles everywhere....I think I'd just do the chop if it was me, not because I'm lazy but because I don't want to damage or upset the dash if I dont' have to.

Those 30 odd year old plastics don't hold up well to being removed.
 

ephect

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I opened up the box where the core sits and managed to remove and replace it without cutting or removing the dash. It was tight but pipes in first and wiggle the core through.
 

losh1971

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Not only that but I've always found the dash is never the same after it's been out.

You'll end up with more creaks and rattles everywhere....I think I'd just do the chop if it was me, not because I'm lazy but because I don't want to damage or upset the dash if I dont' have to.

Those 30 odd year old plastics don't hold up well to being removed.
Only issue is that the evaps also often need changing as they get clogged up with hair, leaf matter and moist dirt. This renders them far less effective than they are when new.
Agree though you do take a chance as things can break.
 

Deuce

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Got home from work. Went back to the garage 1/2 hour later to hang a bunch of bananas I just cut down and saw this:
received_600004298608490.jpeg

It felt like I was in a movie, like saw or nightmare on elm as that life blood trickled towards the garage wall.
Popped the bonnet, depressurised the system and had a look around for a culprit.

Winner:
received_584224656901499.jpeg

Heater return line.
Oh well, probably a 30y/o hose and not a big deal to swap out for a new one.
 

Deuce

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Update from Friday arvo:
I shortened the cracked hose to just above the split and re-attached it, then topped up with coolant.
I'm thinking about getting a meter of 5/8" heater hose and re-routing the lines down the side of engine, under the ABS unit etc. This way hot coolant is not running past my intake runners and cooler air may circulate instead. Plus better visibility and access to intake manifold stuff, although drivers side spark plugs and headers might be harder to access, hmmm
 

gtrboyy

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If it makes bay easier to work on yet prettier to look at same time....we fully endorse it!!!!

Did vs v6 thermofan conversion 'cos made bay more open & easier to work on BUT really looks million times nicer with it.

*likes purty engine bays
 

Deuce

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After work I put my car on the weigh bridge. I wasn't in it, and it still had some tools, a bag, laptop and lunch box etc.
It weighed 1600kg (to the nearest 10).
More than I expected, and I may even weigh everything as I empty the car later, lol.
It gives me a good idea of race weight though.
 
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